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23 Years ago Atlas O Produced an SDP-35 UP Locomotive #6812-2 road # 1407

Fast forward to 2024 and I ordered the above locomotive from a Forum member in like-new condition. I am very much looking forward to receiving the engine. I was sent a video of the engine in motion with all features in play!

I’m wondering if anyone has an opinion about this Atlas engine and their experience with it now or even 23 years ago.

How has the EOB speed control held up? I ask because I had an older Lionel steamer that had EOB added and it had a “squeal” when starting up.

Also interested in opinions of Atlas O locos in general with TMCC installed.

Thanks!!

Last edited by stangtrain
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I have a Atlas CSX GP-15 I purchased new at York many years ago. The only thing I can remember is it had a broken wire from one of the pickup rollers that I repaired a long time ago which is not uncommon for any engine. I also installed the ERR cruise "M" several years ago that made a huge improvement. It's a great running engine that hardly ever leaves the layout.

Atlas engines tend to be harder to repair not just because EOB is such a tight fit but also the way they are put together with multiple hidden tabs.

Plus I think I have had to repair at least 5 Atlas EOB engines for burned out motherboards. I used to think about installing EOB in conventional engines, now any more. I just save the boards I have for repairs.

Detail is great though.

Pete

Last edited by Norton
@stangtrain posted:

23 Years ago Atlas O Produced an SDP-35 UP Locomotive #6812-2 road # 1407

Fast forward to 2024 and I ordered the above locomotive from a Forum member in like-new condition. I am very much looking forward to receiving the engine. I was sent a video of the engine in motion with all features in play!

I’m wondering if anyone has an opinion about this Atlas engine and their experience with it now or even 23 years ago.

How has the EOB speed control held up? I ask because I had an older Lionel steamer that had EOB added and it had a “squeal” when starting up.

Also interested in opinions of Atlas O locos in general with TMCC installed.

Thanks!!

If the engine is truly from 2001, then it's very unlikely that it has EOB. I have two Atlas SD35s from that era and they were equipped with standard TMCC and RailSounds 3 or 4. The later releases in 2003 and 2006 included EOB though.

I upgraded both of mine with an ERR Cruise Commander M and they are good runners. I found that mine were a lot more reliable through turnouts when I switched out the flangeless middle wheelsets for the flanged ones (included in the box).

That item number is going to have a SAW board in it, unless it was upgraded.  The saw board is basically On/Off speed control, and by this point, literally anything is an upgrade.  

If it does have EOB, so long as it works, its fine. I have many atlas locos with EOB and very few issues.  

One thing I'll note is that regardless of the electronics, the grease that was used gets hard over time. You may find that its stiff running (or not running) out of the box by this point, even though it powers up and wants to move).  It would be beneficial to take the trucks apart, clean and relube with new grease. I never had major issues taking apart atlas locos. The shell is many parts and sometimes you have to figure out how they all lock together.

FWIW in my opinion as gunrunner said there very hard to work on and extremely hard to even take apart and they use poor quality on their cam motors! I would not want one even if it was free! I'm installing a ps 3 Deisel kit for a customer and the engine looks like it was never run! very hard to take apart and the cam motor was bad right out of the box, beautiful detail but I'll never work on one again!

Alan

That item number is going to have a SAW board in it, unless it was upgraded.  The saw board is basically On/Off speed control, and by this point, literally anything is an upgrade.  



So, does that mean that having a SAW board it does have some form of cruise control that can be either "on" or "off"?

I never had one of these engines before.

Thanks!

I have this engine and it has been a "shelf queen" for over 20 years.  It will not run on all Atlas track without arcing, sparking, and shorting out on switches.  We finally discovered that it was shorting out on some of my 70 plus Atlas switches because the wheels on the center axle were touching the power rail.  We took the engine apart and ground off some of the outer edge of the offending wheel and it was better, but still shorted out.  We then ground off some of the edge of the power rail and it quit.  As I ran it across the layout, it found another switch that it could not get past without shorting out.

Question:  There is a set of replacement wheel sets for the center wheels that have flanges on them.  Why were they included?  There is no mention of them in the directions that came with the engine.  If I replace the installed wheels without flanges with these, it would most likely limit the play of the axle and prevent it from shorting out.  Is the flangeless wheels so it can run on short radius curves?  I have minimum 072 curves and minimum 072 switches.  Has anybody swapped them out and if so, what was your experience?

Thanks in advance.

Art

Last edited by Chugman
@Chugman posted:

I have this engine and it has been a "shelf queen" for over 20 years.  It will not run on all Atlas track without arcing, sparking, and shorting out on switches.  We finally discovered that it was shorting out on some of my 70 plus Atlas switches because the wheels on the center axle were touching the power rail.  We took the engine apart and ground off some of the outer edge of the offending wheel and it was better, but still shorted out.  We then ground off some of the edge of the power rail and it quit.  As I ran it across the layout, it found another switch that it could not get past without shorting out.

Question:  There is a set of replacement wheel sets for the center wheels that have flanges on them.  Why were they included?  There is no mention of them in the directions that came with the engine.  If I replace the installed wheels without flanges with these, it would most likely limit the play of the axle and prevent it from shorting out.  Is the flangeless wheels so it can run on short radius curves?  I have minimum 072 curves and minimum 072 switches.  Has anybody swapped them out and if so, what was your experience?

Thanks in advance.

Art

Yes, the 3-rail blind center axles were wider and short out on Ross switches too. Atlas included flanged replacements that are the correct width and do not short on the switches. The trade-off is that the blind axles had traction tires and the flanged replacements do not.

My Atlas locos with all 6 axles having flanged wheels have no issues on O-72 Ross and GarGraves track and run beautifully through turnouts and crossovers. I think your assumption is correct, that the original flangeless wheelsets were for tighter O-42ish to O-54ish curves.

My layout is composed of Lionel “O” tubular and Rossplate switch tracks - 072 and #4s. No curve less than 054 on layout.

I’m wondering if the locomotive will “like” going through the Rossplate switches.

Anyone run this locomotive through Lionel or other tubular 072 switch tracks?

Locomotive is due to arrive here next week.

Not sure if seller’s box will include the flanged wheels to swap out. Is this a tricky procedure to swap the wheels?

Thanks!

Stan

Background - When I first entered the hobby in the late 1990s, TMCC was the only option (I think) if you wanted a hand held remote in this scale / gauge.  My first engine was a Lionel GP9 that was upgradable to TMCC.  I got that upgraded.  Not very detailed though.  I began utilizing the internet to see what was out there, and discovered Atlas, MTH, and K-Line.

I ordered my first Atlas engine and SD35, Southern Pacific, still have it.  TMCC and generic rail sounds.  No smoke unit.   Gorgeous engine lots of detail.  No speed control, wasn't offered / didn't exist when bought.

Next up some GE Dash 8 -40s.  Love these as well.  No speed control either on these and I have them in CSX and NS.  The CSX is a regular runner, and has a great smoke unit.  Never an issue.  This has to be 20 years old.   On my YouTube channel.

I also have several Atlas F units, these are newer, within the last 10 years, including Rock Island, Baltimore & Ohio and Santa Fe.

I read the thread, and can say of my Atlas engines 100% have worked right out of the box and continue to be favorites of mine.

I have the following Atlas diesel Locomotives:

  • A-B-A Fairbanks-Morse Erie-Built (2 powered, 1 dummy)
  • 2 Alco-GE RSD-4 (both powered)
  • 2 EMD GP9 (both powered)
  • 3 EMD GP7 (2 powered, 1 dummy)

They are well detailed, smooth runners, and by far the most durable locomotives I own.  They have all run for hours at Lone Star Hi Railers events, and never overheated or gave any trouble at all.  I would call them bullet proof.  The Erie Built powered cab unit has a split Mars Light bulb that alternately shines to the left and then to the right.  All have warm white headlights.  Top quality.

@stangtrain posted:

So, does that mean that having a SAW board it does have some form of cruise control that can be either "on" or "off"?

I never had one of these engines before.

Thanks!

There is no cruise. By on or off, I mean that your options for speed are "Stop" or "Go". Maybe you get fast, faster, fly off the table out of it, but its very crude by modern standards (it was probably crude by 25 years ago's standards). The Sunset Atlas Weaver (SAW) board was the original licensed TMCC hardware. It was a generation or more behind whatever Lionel was putting in their stuff at the time.

I have 4, all jersey central, a sd35, rs1, gp7, rsd4.

Rs1, smoke, sound, electro couplers, no cruise.

Rsd 4, sound, electro couplers,  no smoke or cruise

Gp7, all that rs 1 has plus cruise

Sd 35, same as gp7

Fairly high degree of detail for the trainman line, all run flawlessly.  These all see the most track time on my layout.

I would say I have a medium size sampling of Atlas locomotives compared to some people.

I have 29 total units.

3 conventional diesels

25 TMCC diesels

1 TMCC steam locomotive (switcher)

Most of the TMCC diesel units run great …a few are a little finicky.

I would never buy another Atlas steam engine…the one I have is just plain awful !

The engine runs fine on my 072 / 054 circle of Lionel tubular track. I have not tried it yet going through my Rossplate 072 or #4 switch tracks.

The seller did include two flanged wheel sets that may used if needed.

In case I do need to swap the blind center wheels with the enclosed flanged ones, I am wondering what the procedure is. has anyone done this? This is not mentioned in the instruction booklet.

Looking at the trucks, I cannot tell how that would work.

I did a quick Google and YouTube search and did not find any guidance.

Thanks!

@stangtrain posted:

The seller did include two flanged wheel sets that may used if needed.

In case I do need to swap the blind center wheels with the enclosed flanged ones, I am wondering what the procedure is. has anyone done this? This is not mentioned in the instruction booklet.

Looking at the trucks, I cannot tell how that would work.



IIRC there is a screw on the bottom of the truck. I think after unscrewing that, then some wiggling of the truck and flywheel on the motor will allow it to drop out. Be careful though as there will still be wires attached for the electro-couplers and the collector and common.

I’ll see if I can do mine and put a video together. Not sure if I’ll get to that immediately though as work has been busy.

@rplst8

Hi: Just checking in with you regarding this nice Atlas O locomotive of mine.

I have been running it on my upper loop that has no switch tracks and it runs fine. When I tried sending it through an 072 RossPlate switch it was not at all pleased!

If you can point me to maybe an instruction sheet from Atlas regarding how to install the wheel-sets, that would be great.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Best regards,

Stan

So I went back and looked at this locomotive and it’s more complex than I remembered. So first caveat is that this is for an SD35 and yours is an SDP35. But I’m guessing the trucks are similar. I also recommend reading this in it’s entirety before you start so you don’t break something fragile. I have some general notes at the end.

1) Remove the screws that hold the shell to the frame. These are under the trucks so you must swing them to the side to get all six.

IMG_20240127_123640752_Original

2) Carefully remove the shell. It should be three main pieces, long hood, cab, and short hood. However, it will probably come off in one piece because the shell to shell connection is a friction fit. There are screw posts on the inside of the shell that you will have to guide over the sides of the electronics. And don’t forget to remove the handrails from their attachment points to the shell. I like to cover the handrail ends with electrical tape after removing them so they don’t scratch the paint. Lesson learned the hard way. I have a few of these and this one didn’t fare well as it was my first victim when I added a Cruise Commander M. Also, a few of the roof panels separate from the long hood and removing them first can really help you see where the shell is hanging up when removing it.

IMG_20240127_124122088_Original

IMG_20240127_123741733_Original

3) Remove the screws (two on each truck) that connect the third rail collector and common wires. Take note of the position, watch for any insulators that drop out, and note, the once the screw for the collector is removed, the roller will drop out as it is the “nut” for that bolt.

IMG_20240127_124748138_Original

4) Remove the truck mounting frame. Each frame has four screws, two of which are under the battery (if installed) on the rear one. Once you do this, the truck and motor can be removed from the frame. But be careful because the electro-couplers will be still attached and the wires are thin. When I work on these I usually cut them clean first and then install a connector later for easier reassembly.

IMG_20240127_124748138_Original

5) With access to the top of the truck, you’ll see four screws on the top. Remove those. Then on the bottom of the truck there is one more screw that holds the motor mount to the truck. Remove that and the truck should come apart.

IMG_20240127_124803207_Original

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Notes:

  • The handrail stanchions are very fragile where they connect to the frame. Be careful not to move them back and forth too much or the will snap. Mine came this way used.
  • There are tons of detail parts like coupler cut bars, O-rings, steps, pilot footboards. If they aren’t glued in, I’d recommend removing them and putting them in a plastic baggie.
  • The front and rear headlight go to a spring connection that presses down on a PCB with four contacts. It’s a common failure point.  The body post that the spring contact holder connects to breaks and then there isn’t enough pressure to make a connection with the PCB contacts. I recommend removing all that and just soldering in some connectors on the engine side that mate with the ones on the shell side.

I will update this with pictures in a few minutes.

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Last edited by rplst8

As mentioned several months ago I bought the Atlas DM&IR RS15 which has an extra pair of rubber tired, on the flangeless wheel sets. The engine does not like traversing the layout, my curves are 96,89,80,72.  Are the extra wheel sets with tires causing the trucks to not slide over the rails? The recent mentions of having to buy new wheel sets that are flanged has me questioning, is this going to solve the problems?

As mentioned several months ago I bought the Atlas DM&IR RS15 which has an extra pair of rubber tired, on the flangeless wheel sets. The engine does not like traversing the layout, my curves are 96,89,80,72.  Are the extra wheel sets with tires causing the trucks to not slide over the rails? The recent mentions of having to buy new wheel sets that are flanged has me questioning, is this going to solve the problems?

I think the main problem is that on 3-rail Atlas Master line locomotives, the outer wheel sets and the flangeless wheel sets have rubber tires. This leaves only one wheel set on each truck to make contact with the outer rail.

Most include replacement wheel sets in the box that are flanged and have no rubber traction tires. Installing them double the number on contact points and makes their operating much more reliable.

@rplst8 posted:
Notes:
  • The handrail stanchions are very fragile where they connect to the frame. Be careful not to move them back and forth too much or the will snap. Mine came this way used.
  • There are tons of detail parts like coupler cut bars, O-rings, steps, pilot footboards. If they aren’t glued in, I’d recommend removing them and putting them in a plastic baggie.
  • The front and rear headlight go to a spring connection that presses down on a PCB with four contacts. It’s a common failure point.  The body post that the spring contact holder connects to breaks and then there isn’t enough pressure to make a connection with the PCB contacts. I recommend removing all that and just soldering in some connectors on the engine side that mate with the ones on the shell side.

Thank you for illustrating why I hate working on Atlas locomotives for the most part!

This recent purchase, back in the summer, has no extra wheel sets, nor did Atlas offer them to me. They wanted video of the derailing! Never offered or told me about the extra wheel sets. With tires on the flangeless wheels would that help make the truck not want to track right becasue I was thinking the wheels could not slide over in curves with the tires causing a firm grip. The extra wheel sets sound like they could be the answer. If so I guess I have to ask Atlas for a pair and see how much they will cost me. at this point, my likely hood of buying another Atlas diesel is not going to happen. Fortunately there cars seem to be great.

This recent purchase, back in the summer, has no extra wheel sets, nor did Atlas offer them to me. They wanted video of the derailing! Never offered or told me about the extra wheel sets. With tires on the flangeless wheels would that help make the truck not want to track right becasue I was thinking the wheels could not slide over in curves with the tires causing a firm grip. The extra wheel sets sound like they could be the answer. If so I guess I have to ask Atlas for a pair and see how much they will cost me. at this point, my likely hood of buying another Atlas diesel is not going to happen. Fortunately there cars seem to be great.

The wheels with the extra traction tires never caused derailments for me. You should probably call Atlas and see if they can help you with it. Maybe there is some other problem with the truck that’s causing it to bind on something in curves.

Also the RSD-15 is a Trainman line model and may not have the replaceable wheel sets like the Master line does.

@stangtrain , Stan, I was so glad when Atlas O began making the Century 21 Track and then their diesels. They started with Lionel TMCC basic and then added 4.0, and then added EOB, which I haven’t had yet, however, I have some Atlas O TMCC diesels and they are great. They are heavy, run good with the Cab 1L remotes. The disappointment to me was when they bought some of the MTH Line, they only use DCS. I wish they would offer both systems. Atlas On makes great products. Good luck…IMG_9275IMG_8100IMG_8065IMG_8066

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@leapinlarry posted:

@stangtrain , Stan, I was so glad when Atlas O began making the Century 21 Track and then their diesels. They started with Lionel TMCC basic and then added 4.0, and then added EOB, which I haven’t had yet, however, I have some Atlas O TMCC diesels and they are great. They are heavy, run good with the Cab 1L remotes. The disappointment to me was when they bought some of the MTH Line, they only use DCS. I wish they would offer both systems. Atlas On makes great products. Good luck…

You can run the new Atlas DCS diesels with a CAB-1L and a PowerMaster.

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