2343 F3 coil coupler to ERR AC Commander

You'll need to isolate the coupler from the ground and then connect it to the AC Commander. Or another option is to get a newer version of the coupler that has the wires and connector to plug it in. Go to Lionels website and put "coupler" in the search box under replacement parts. You'll nee to know the length and the style of mounting for your coupler.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...;submitButton=Search

Look for anything that says, "Coil Coupler".

Actually, since one side of the coupler connection to the AC commander is ground, you just have to identify the ungrounded side and wire it correctly, job done.  I'd remove the shoe connection to make sure you don't toast the coupler triac on the AC Commander R4LC.

Well the shoe is gone thanks to a Ross 072 switch, so that's not an issue. Any idea which pin on the ERR board's front coupler connection is ground and which one is power?

Your ohmmeter will tell you that in a flash.  I don't recall offhand, but it's very easy to find out.

I'll have to check then. I was being lazy and hoping someone knew 😁.

Do you really want to trust to someones off-hand comment when it's so easy to check?

The instructions show which terminal is front coupler. Connect the coupler wire that is not connected to the chassis to this pin. You don't need to connect the grounded wire to the AC Commander as its already connected to ground.

If you run AA and want to fire the coupler on the trailing engine you would need to run a tether to that engine then wire it to the rear coupler terminal on the AC Commander.

Pete

If someone has checked then sure. Learn from other people's experience 😁.

I checked the ERR board electro coupler pins for continuity to ground with my multimeter. On both the front and rear coupler connectors the pin closest to the rear of the board had continuity to ground (meter beeped). The pin closest to the radio board showed 1 on the meter with no beep. So it looks like the pin closest to the radio board is power, and the pin closest to the rear of the board is ground. So I'll try connecting the power wire for the coil coupler to the power pin and hope it works 😁.

On my Lionel F3 that I converted a long time ago, the PCB says AC/DC Commander and the white wire is connected to ground and the black to coil positive. I ran a separate ground wire to the frame of the coil coupler, soldering to the corner of the bracket. I also soldered a a ground wire for the light bulb, and for good measure gave each truck a ground wire.

Yup. Pin closest to the radio board is power. Ran a wire from the 1950 vintage coil coupler solder lug to the front coupler power pin on the ERR board. Vola command uncoupling anywhere. 

It's normally just that easy.

Now if ERR would make the Mini Commander EX again I could get the coupler and directional lighting working on the dummy A unit. I'm not running a teather from the powered A unit as it would have to pass through two dummy B units to get there.

They have a reservation page up.   ERR Mini Commander Reservations

Lou1985 posted:

Now if ERR would make the Mini Commander EX again I could get the coupler and directional lighting working on the dummy A unit. I'm not running a teather from the powered A unit as it would have to pass through two dummy B units to get there.

You can still use an R2LC with a 24 pin header. Less expensive than a Mini Ex and more functionality.

Pete

Good point Pete, and if you purchase a few at the Lionel half price parts sale, they're actually really cheap.

Might be an idea to make a PCB board to provide convenient connections to the R2LC.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

They have a reservation page up.   ERR Mini Commander Reservations

Well then I'm going to have to reserve a couple Mini Commander EXs then. Thanks for the link.

Norton posted:

Lou1985 posted:

Now if ERR would make the Mini Commander EX again I could get the coupler and directional lighting working on the dummy A unit. I'm not running a teather from the powered A unit as it would have to pass through two dummy B units to get there.

You can still use an R2LC with a 24 pin header. Less expensive than a Mini Ex and more functionality.

 

Pete

That sounds interesting. Is there a pin out somewhere of what everything on the R2LC controls? If so one could make it work pretty easy.

I had also considered picking up a couple LCRXs as well instead of the Mini Commander EX.

GRJ posted this one on the TMCC forum.

Pete

Norton posted:

GRJ posted this one on the TMCC forum.

Pete

Thanks. I my have to try using a R2LC instead of a mini commander or LCRX.

I've often thought of making a PCB to just tap the outputs of the R2LC, just never got around to it.  It would be cool to put some screw terminals on it so you could connect it without soldering.

John ,  that's the best idea you have had this year !!!      You can take the rest of the year off.           j

I'm a big fan of screw terminals, they are so easy!

Just happend to do this for one of my projects (a toublesome install of a Super Chuffer II - not a problem with the board, a problem in the install):

I have also attached the editable file done with a freeware package called ExpressSCH

The data files are shared under a Creative Commons license

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I've often thought of making a PCB to just tap the outputs of the R2LC, just never got around to it.  It would be cool to put some screw terminals on it so you could connect it without soldering.

Sign me up for 3 of them...

Well this thread got derailed, in a good way. I'm learning some stuff about the R2LC I didn't know before.

GRJ..... I also have interest in this board. I remember you posting about this idea in the past.

Richard

While you guys are waiting for John to build you a board you can always use Lionel motherboards used in their early TMCC and Odyssey engines. You would have to make you own JST connectors but no soldering needed.

This is just one example of many options.

Pete

I was using the R2LCs by itself 15 years ago. I used a strip of pins - forget what it's called - but it's the correct spacing and you can snap off the length that you need. It's a single strip so just use two rows in parallel. Much cheaper than a connector and does the same function. I had all my cabooses with an R2LC for lights, couplers and smoke functions. Also did milk cars and anything with a solenoid using the coupler or smoke output. 

Thanks Norton....I'll take a look.

Richard

Yep, currently I use Lionel boards, of course I have a bunch of all the Lionel connectors and pins, as well as a couple of crimp tools.  I just figure for projects like TMCC control of cars, having something easier to connect would be useful.