3-rail vs 2-rail O

There are other pros and cons that I haven't listed.

 

O scale pros:

• Trains you can actually see
• Big sound. Really big sound.
• Still small enough to run indoors, but outdoor operation is an option provided certain measures are taken.
• You don't need 100 cars to have an impressive train. Two locomotives and 20 cars gets you over 20 feet of train.
• You can have as much or as little detail as you want.
• Even though some ready-to-plant structures aren't available, you have plenty of opportunities to scratch build. Some materials are available from your local home improvement center.
• New classes of entry-level equipment -- MTH Rail King/Rail King Scale and Atlas Trainman. Atlas Trainman equipment is available in both 3-rail and 2-rail.

O scale cons:

• Can be expensive for the high-end stuff, especially brass.
• Consumes a lot of space
• Overall selection of products less than H.O. (most popular scale) but they're out there.

 

3-rail pros:

• Slightly better availability of equipment
• Everything produced to date in 3-rail can operate on 36" radius (O-72) curves.
• Broader availability of sectional track

3-rail cons:

• Larger than life couplers (aka "Lobster Claws")
• Swinging pilots on diesels
• Track appearance still has the third rail in the middle, but doesn't bother most. I've lived with it for decades.
• Two separate command control systems -- TMCC/Legacy (Lionel, Atlas, Weaver) and DCS (MTH).

 

2-rail Pros:

• More realistic appearance of locomotives and rolling stock due to smaller flanges and flanges on all wheels.
• More realistic track.
• Lower rail profile
• More detail on much of the equipment due to not having to make the compromises for sharp radius curves.
• Kadee couplers (pretty much the standard) look more realistic than the hi-rail couplers.
• Lots of "old school" locomotive and rolling stock kits if you want to "roll your own."

2-rail cons:

• Reverse-loops require special wiring equipment to handle polarity. Minor inconvenience.
• Larger area required since 36" radius is very sharp. Most medium-sized equipment works better on 48" radius (O-96) or larger; large equipment often requires 60" radius (O-120) or larger.
• DCC systems are more expensive due to higher current requirements. DCS can be used with MTH locomotives.

 

As I've been in 3-rail for decades and have been dabbling in 2-rail for about four, I don't find either to be superior to the other, but I can't see myself going with a smaller scale, despite the space requirements. I consider the space requirements a design challenge which I find mentally stimulating.

 

The above aside, what should really finalize things includes:

• Your available layout space
• Whether you want to join a local club and the equipment/command control system(s) they use.
• Budget.
• Goals as to what you want in a layout -- fidelity to a prototype/area, level of detail, etc.

Hope this helps some.

There is, of course, no "best."  It's all a matter of individual preferences, which is as it should be for any hobby activity.

I think it really boils down to track and wheels.  If you like the look of the traditional center rail, then your choice is made.  If you would rather have realistic track, you can always opt for smaller locomotives and operate on the same 36" radius curves.

 

 

Personal preference for sure, but my guess is there are a lot more three rail guys out there in O-Gauge than two rail, if that means anything to you.

One quick but important note about three rail and two rail trains; don't use three rail cars on two rail track without changing the wheels out to two rail, instant short if you don't. Also two rail usually runs on D.C. power, and three rail is normally A.C. power. Two rail wheels are insulated from each other, and three rail wheels are not insulated from each other.

 

You can run two rail cars on three rail and nothing bad happen other then you can not operate electrically activated accessories or non-derailing switches if the car is backed onto one.

 

Lee Fritz

The reality is that there is no best choice, it is going to come down to what you prefer and what you have the space for.  I used to be into 3 rail but then I switched over... but that being said it was because of my own personal preference and the fact that I also have the space I needed to create a kind of layout I wanted to have.  As I said it really is going to come down to what you prefer the most.

Chris

I've always thought what Matt said here was correct:

 

Larger area required since 36" radius is very sharp. Most medium-sized equipment works better on 48" radius (O-96) or larger; large equipment often requires 60" radius (O-120) or larger.

 

and if you're going to build an island layout, that is most certainly true.  But if you're going to build an around the wall shelf layout, larger radius curves can be used.  I have a 12x12 around the wall layout and use 072 (36" radius) curves.  I could have gone larger if I had only realized it beforehand, although using larger radius curves will reduce the amount of straight track in between the corners.

 

One area I find hard to nail down is what power sources are available for 2-rail operation.  Most if not all 2-rail layouts use DC power, and most of the DC transformers/power supplies I've looked at are expensive compared to what's available in 3-rail.  Seems like a lot of folks "roll their own" when it comes to this area, or mention power supplies that were made some time ago.

 

3-rail stuff can be converted to operate on 2-rail, with engines being harder to convert than rolling stock.  Most rolling stock simply requires replacing the 3-rail trucks with 2-rail trucks.  MTH makes engines that can be switched from 3-rail to 2-rail fairly easily.

 

I think it all comes down to looks.  If you don't mind the middle rail then 3-rail may be the way to go.  I'm still 3-rail and have replaced all the big couplers with Kadees and have fixed all the pilots on my engines (steam and diesel).

 

Both are fun and at eye level where you couldn't look down on the track, it would be difficult to tell the difference between a 2-rail and a 3-rail layout.

 

Of course there's always proto48 if you want to really get into 2-rail scale.

I think I've decided 3-rail, gargraves or Atlas track w/ross switches....I have some old lionel track which I might use for my trolley line and i'm looking for a club here in Central Florida.

I like the simplicity Conventional O scale 3 rail trains offer. Simple things like loop wiring, triggering of signals and accessories via insulated sections, the ability for 3 rail trans to run on less than perfect track, The curves 3 rail can run on.....I'll have O-72 min but in a pinch I can use smaller.

As for 2 rail O.....I'd just stayed in HO myself.....love the stuff the 2 rail guys do....but the cost vs HO is BIG!

Actually, I think that the final criteria is where one should start -- Goals and objectives vs. what you have available in space, time, and budget.