Same issues
Will the Red Caboose GP kits provide a replacement step option? Or are they different?
Gentlemen, Many thanks for posting all the pics of these units!
Dave, those B&LE units are really nice.
I realize that most everyone is going the Kadee route, but were there any issues on an O72 curve with the Electrocouplers?
Also, has anyone tries these units on a curve less than O72?
For what it's worth, the end steps were apparently different on SD7 units, than on the SD9 units. It is also pretty difficult to find accurate photos of SD7, and/or SD9 units with "original" steps, since the FRA mandated "side footboard" requirement of the 1970s. As a result of that FRA mandate, any and all SD and GP units HAD to have their side steps modified in order to comply with the FRA "side footboard" mandate.
DaveJfr0 posted:LOS - that is a SD7, SD7's had a different stairwell, so no problem there.
Yeah I know my comments didn't show up on my post. I just showed for ref. The spacing is correct, like stated, they just glued the step on the SD9s in the wrong spot. It just needs to get moved down. Should be an easy fix.
That step is still jsut way off and doesnt even look right. I'll add it to the list of sh** to do not likely Ill get to it anytime soon
Plucking them off is real easy 
DaveJfr0 posted:Laidoffsick posted:Plucking then off is real easy
Yes, it surprisingly was too easy to take them off, but cleaning up the residue to the point of where it looks factory new may be tough for some of Scott's customers. I am lucky that these units were not considered brand new in my modeling era. Does anyone know if Goo-gone takes off paint?
Two words: Scalecoat Paint. 
Goo gone might attack the paint. You might want to try 1000-1200grit wet/dry sandpaper (wet) on a coffee stirrer to gently sand off the residue, then touch up the paint if necessary. That's what I use to remove/change numbers on MTH locomotive shells. If I ("Mr 10-thumbs") can do it, anyone can.
Anybody have jerky low speed performance?
David Minarik posted:Anybody have jerky low speed performance?
Yes, as in the infamous Odessy lurch? Engine that fried had it real bad in reverse. On other engines At 32 hardly noticeable. At 128 up until about 7 smph. I found on the unit that's dead, that in reverse it seems to be binding.
Doug
Dave if you are using the Cab2 Legacy remote, change the mode to RC100. I think Cab1 mode is default, then TMCC, then R100. The ERR boards run much better with the Cab2 that way.
My FP7s run great in any of the 3 modes, but I had to change my 4 F units to R100 for the smoothest 4 engine consist.
Well, since I purchased 3 of these-2 B&LE SD9's and 1 DMIR SD9- all 3 rail models, I may as well chime in with my observations on my particular models. (your engine/engines may or may not have correct details to your particular roadname). Overall, mine are great looking models and I'm glad that I purchased them. I'm not going to post pictures as Dave has already posted videos of both of his B&LE and DMIR engines in operation. I have not operated mine as of yet. As far as the details-the biggest thing that I noticed immediately at the front of all my engines is the bracket for the bell mounted on the high, short hood is completely wrong. Every photo of every B&LE/DMIR high hood SD9 that I have looked at from the 1960's through the 2000's(including my own books) shows the bracket being welded/fabricated solid plates on both sides, top, and rear, not the 2 arms sticking up with the bell hanging between them that came on my engines. So I'm disappointed with that. The other item, which has already been mentioned in this thread, is the number/positioning of the steps on the four corners of the engines. On my particular model roadnames, from many prototype photos, there appears to be a step missing. There should be 5 total steps on mine(counting the deck as the top step). So, on the models, where there appears to be a large gap between the first and second step as has been mentioned earlier in this thread, on my models, another step should be added between the first 2 existing steps, closing the gap and adding the missing step at the same time. Again, these are observations on the B&LE/DMIR models. Anyone else who has these-what do you think?
Nick
The discussion of engine/road-specific details made me thing of what happens to locomotives over their service lives -- they get modified/wrecked/repaired/upgraded. The reason I mention this is because if you look at an as-delivered photo of a locomotive and compare it to the last [known] photo before retirement/scrapping, they can appear completely different. Examples of things that happen include:
- Relocation of bells
- Relocation of horns
- Rebuilds/upgrades that impact the exterior. Don't get me started on CF7's and SD45B's.
- Addition/removal/relocation of lights (you find a lot of ATSF diesels with the headlights relocated from the top of the cab to the end of the short hood with a cover plate where the lights used to be)
- Cab changes (there are a lot of GP7's/GP9s in service with chopped noses or outright replaced cabs). Look up the original "Beep" on a Santa Fe site.
- Truck change-outs. Santa Fe had a C-30 that had a mixed pair of trucks.
- Addition of roof-top AC units.
The changes aren't necessarily to a specific model, but may apply to a single locomotive during its lifetime.
As to color, lighting when the photo was taking, exposure, paint fading, dirt/weathering, etc. can influence what you see. Don't get me started on CNW Zito Yellow.
I think 3rd rail did a great job on the units and the fact they've even gone for road-specific details is a big plus. Even MTH has done that one some models like the GP38-2's, but nobody's perfect.
Looking at the step issue now. I will review it with our design team and see if we can make some castings of this step, or an etched plate to show the additional step on the models. Sorry guys. Had many people looking at these drawings and no one spotted it. There is always something.
Scott Mann - China
In 3 Rail: If you have low speed jerky performance, try turning off the SPEED CONTROL.
[AUX1],[0], [AUX1], [0], [BRAKE] - 32 Step Speed Control
[AUX1],[0], [AUX1], [0], [BOOST] - 100 Step Speed Control
[AUX1], [0], [AUX1], [BRAKE], [7] ,[BRAKE]- Speed Control Turned OFF
[AUX1], [0], [AUX1], [BRAKE], [9] ,[BRAKE]- Speed Control Turned ON
For more information on Electric Railroad: www.electricrr.com
Received my Milwaukee SD7 and CNW SD9 Monday and I think they're terrific.
The step issue doesn't bother me, didn't even notice it, but I understand how others would feel differently,
I did have trouble with one unit stuttering around and discovered the electrical wipers on the wheels were not making good contact. A small tweak with needle nose pliers fixed it right up.
Really like the sound of the horns and maybe someday will add tmcc to take advantage of the other sounds and maybe a better cruise function.
All in all I think Scott and the crew did a great job.
Dan
Before I go, would putting in a battery do anything for conventional running?
Some crappy cell shots of my Demo SD7. I'm thrilled with it.
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GG1 4877 posted:Some crappy cell shots of my Demo SD7. I'm thrilled with it.
Well I'll be darned! I didn't realize you guys were going to produce BOTH road numbers of the EMD demonstrator units. I would have preferred the 991, as it was the "east coast" demo, while the first unit, the 990 went west. Guess I'll stick with the 990, that arrived two days ago.
Hot Water posted:GG1 4877 posted:Some crappy cell shots of my Demo SD7. I'm thrilled with it.
Well I'll be darned! I didn't realize you guys were going to produce BOTH road numbers of the EMD demonstrator units. I would have preferred the 991, as it was the "east coast" demo, while the first unit, the 990 went west. Guess I'll stick with the 990, that arrived two days ago.
Jack, I thought you knew? If you want to do a trade, I'm not concerned on the number. Just send me a note!
how bout some extra steps, can you get em in cnw green?
David Minarik posted:John. Here ya go. PS3 will easily fit.
Thanks Dave. And thanks for chatting with me on the phone today. Conversion to PS 3 is now on my list.
And.... on the SD9s the 2nd step is too high. That was a factory error, design and our revierers got it right. We will make new steps (the individual step that one can glue in). The step section on the pilot is part of the pilot, all soldered together. That's what I know. Scott - China
suzukovich posted:Christmas is early .....
OK, so how about some night shots to illuminate all those Christmas lights!
sdmann posted:And.... on the SD9s the 2nd step is too high. That was a factory error, design and our revierers got it right. We will make new steps (the individual step that one can glue in). The step section on the pilot is part of the pilot, all soldered together. That's what I know. Scott - China
I was looking through the drawings to find one the same as built and they all looked correct to me. What is strange is the exact same thing happened to Atlas on the GP60s.
Hot Water posted:GG1 4877 posted:Some crappy cell shots of my Demo SD7. I'm thrilled with it.
Well I'll be darned! I didn't realize you guys were going to produce BOTH road numbers of the EMD demonstrator units. I would have preferred the 991, as it was the "east coast" demo, while the first unit, the 990 went west. Guess I'll stick with the 990, that arrived two days ago.
Wwwhhhhhaaaaattttt! I remember noting at the time that there would be 10 of each number. To make it easier to make the minimum I hoped demo fans would order both numbers; like me 
.
suzukovich posted:David Minarik posted:Anybody have jerky low speed performance?
Funny thing. On a whim I oiled with Labelle the axles where they met the side frames. Ran for awhile. This morning when started up, in 128/100 There was no jerking of the SP SD9/7 lash up at 1 Smph. Still had slight issue in revers with the SD7 which is the trailing unit. Will oil it again and see what happens.
You just need to stretch their legs to give em a bit more hitch in their gittiup
Matt Makens posted:You just need to stretch their legs to give em a bit more hitch in their gittiup
Did that, put down track in my drive way and hooked up my wife's van. Neighbor thought I was crazy until it pulled the van 10ft.
rdunniii posted:sdmann posted:And.... on the SD9s the 2nd step is too high. That was a factory error, design and our revierers got it right. We will make new steps (the individual step that one can glue in). The step section on the pilot is part of the pilot, all soldered together. That's what I know. Scott - ChinaI was looking through the drawings to find one the same as built and they all looked correct to me. What is strange is the exact same thing happened to Atlas on the GP60s.
What was the issue with the Atlas GP60 steps, I have a CSX 2rail version and have never picked up on a step problem, just curious.
breezinup posted:suzukovich posted:Christmas is early .....
OK, so how about some night shots to illuminate all those Christmas lights!
This is what you wanted.
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Mike CT posted:Thirdrail Great Northern SD9 model. IMO nice paint. Set as cab forward.
Nice. It was a tuff choice between the GN units and The SP Black Widows. It should of been set long hood forward. Cab forward was after the merger
More SD9 "selfies". My PRR in 2 rail. The color is a lot darker than the cell phone shots would make it appear.
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Jonathan,
Thank you for the photos. I have yet to take mine out of the box and check it out. Tonite,maybe......
Norm
Did anyone reserve the UP SD7 version or were there insufficient reservations to get it produced ?
OK, besides Doug, how many of you have been able to get that Kadee "2-Rail scale pilot insert" to fit properly?
hibar posted:Did anyone reserve the UP SD7 version or were there insufficient reservations to get it produced ?
I took delivery of two.
Other than having to enlarge a hole no issues at all.
Hot Water posted:OK, besides Doug, how many of you have been able to get that Kadee "2-Rail scale pilot insert" to fit properly?
No problem getting them to fit. Bend the hoses out a bit.
