3rd Rail SD9's are coming

David Minarik posted:

Hot Water posted:

OK, besides Doug, how many of you have been able to get that Kadee "2-Rail scale pilot insert" to fit properly?

No problem getting them to fit.  Bend the hoses out a bit.

The "hoses" do not appear to be the problem. I've been filing on the sides of the brass "scale" insert/adapter and still can not get it to fit properly in place in order to insert the two small mounting screws. I'll get back to it tomorrow.

Suzukovich, nice video. I love that song too. "I'm a rocker dude, thru and thru. Here's some of my favorite bands, AC/DC, Van Halen, not..." Joe Dirt!!!

So what exactly is the deal with the step, are they missing a step or is it just in the wrong place?

On the SD9's the step was placed in the wrong location by the factory.  It is correct on all the drawings but was installed too high.  Scott is making replacement steps for anyone who asks for them or Dave has already posted how he repaired his.  The SD7 is different in that as delivered they didn't have true steps, but cutouts for someone's feet. 

Ill have to pop one off and see how it looks, maybe the glue residue wont be so bad or some CNW green will cover it well. I didnt even notice it until somebody said something but I'm not that hard on details now I kinda wish nobody said anything

GG1 4877 posted:

On the SD9's the step was placed in the wrong location by the factory.  It is correct on all the drawings but was installed too high.  Scott is making replacement steps for anyone who asks for them or Dave has already posted how he repaired his.   

Hi Jonathan,

So,  the proper procedure for obtaining the 12 missing steps on my 2 B&LE/1 DMIR SD9's would be to email Scott directly and ask for them?   Thanks for your help.

Nick

Nick, I'd send an email to Scott. He's in China now so he might respond at some odd hours but he will respond. 

Are the steps missing or merely in the wrong spot? Wrong placement is the issue that we've seen so far.

Jonathan,

As I noted in one of my previous posts here,   on my particular roadnames,  the B&LE(especially) and DMIR there is a step missing.   Prototype engine photos show nearly all of them with 5 steps(counting the engine deck/walkway as the top step).   So,  I will just add the replacement step in the large gap between steps 1 and 2(working from the bottom up).   I'm glad Scott takes the time to listen and take care of his customers when situations like this occurs and I will send Scott an email tonight or tomorrow.   Thanks for your work and help on these engines.   Now about that bell bracket

Nick   

suzukovich posted:

Christmas is early   Getting ready to install Kadees.

 

CB&Q/C &S SD9s

 

SP SD9/SD7

 

 

Beautiful units!  Do the CB&Q versions have the slogan "Everywhere West" on the other side of the long hood?

RTR Mark

We actually have SD7 UP in 2R and 3R available to buy. Email me if you are interested. Scott

Ready-to-Run Mark posted:

suzukovich posted:

Christmas is early   Getting ready to install Kadees.

 

CB&Q/C &S SD9s

 

SP SD9/SD7

 

 

Beautiful units!  Do the CB&Q versions have the slogan "Everywhere West" on the other side of the long hood?

 

RTR Mark

Yes.  

sdmann posted:

We actually have SD7 UP in 2R and 3R available to buy. Email me if you are interested. Scott

Were these units delivered as pictured in your original SD7/9 announcement ad of UP model with vent pipe ,  pipe on rear air grilles and winterization hatch?

The original picture was a stand in.

Here is a picture of what we produced in UP

Thanks Scott for bringing us these beautiful models!

The following is a set of photos comparing my new 3rd Rail SD9 alongside an MTH version.  There are also photos including an Atlas GP9 (with road specific detail, i.e. Pyle Gyralite) alongside a similar MTH.

Not long ago, we had a good discussion asking "does road specific detail matter?"  To many of us, I say it does.

Enjoying my long-awaited accurate SP SD9. Looks great--still runs a little rough in reverse and doesn't like one of my Scaletrax #4 switches (stalls on the straight section for some reason), but I'll get to work figuring those bugs out shortly. Wonderful engine--very grateful to Scott Mann & Co for pursuing this project and executing it so well!

Tony

Any word on if these units can negotiate a curve less than O72?

Many thanks

EMD posted:

Any word on if these units can negotiate a curve less than O72?

Many thanks

060 is smallest you can go using the lobster claw couplers.  Like Doug said earlier 072 is due to the fixed pilots and kadees.

Suzukovich, Many thank  for the reply.

suzukovich posted:

EMD posted:

Any word on if these units can negotiate a curve less than O72?

Many thanks

060 is smallest you can go using the lobster claw couplers.  Like Doug said earlier 072 is due to the fixed pilots and kadees.

I was in touch with Scott Mann during the production process to determine if the 3R SD9 would negotiate 054 curves. He let me know (while he was in China testing the models, no less) that the 3R version handled the Atlas 054 test track curves. I use solely Scaletrax on my layout and, after about 10 days of experience, can report that the SD9 is able to run through 054 curves (and the curved segment of 054 switches) without difficulty. Just to see how far it could go, I ran the SD9 through a small even-tighter section of approximately 042 curved flextrack--it negotiated that as well, though that's clearly the limit. This six-axle engine doesn't look great going though those tight curved, but it works. I am impressed.

I just received one of the left-over UP SD-7s and am really glad I treated myself to this locomotive. It is just gorgeous! However, I am having trouble getting it to accept any engine address except 1. I'm using the Legacy system and when I follow the instructions in the manual the engine doesn't take the new address. When I follow the instructions in the engine's manual the only address it will take is 1. I have the switch set to program. What am I doing wrong?

I'm also getting jerky slow speed performance (control is set to R100) and saw Scott's earlier post advising to turn off the speed control. I'm not sure how to do this with the Legacy controller. The instructions in the manual seem to be pointed to the Cab1 remote. I'm hoping that the slower speeds will improve after a break-in period.

Joe

The Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range SD9 is going to need some logo decals, because a part protrudes through the MISSABE logos on the short hood. If only the logo would have placed in an entirely flat spot somewhere else on the short hood. I have to make decals, or have somebody custom make decals, since there are no MISSABE diesel decals available. The part did not protrude on the real DM&IR SD9s, so it has to be removed with a sprue cutter, but that will ruin the logo. Then a custom made decal can be placed on top.  I was waiting to find a DM&IR SD9, now I have to correct this.

Andrew

Here are my photos of the Duluth, Missabe & Iron Range SD9 diesel loco.

The Circular Missabe emblem looks smaller on the real hoods. 

Perhaps the circular herald could not be duplicated any smaller.

Andrew

The herald diameter looks pretty good compared with this photo.

The herald size was smaller in the original paint scheme.

The later circular herald looks twice as large.

My Missabe SD9 model does not have diagonal stripes along the side-sill. That will have to be added with decals if I want to have yellow stripes.

Andrew

The DM&IR SD9 #110 was one of the first built in 1955 as a demonstrator, sent to B&LE, and among the first to be scrapped.

If there is a second run I would have to get a much later road number from #160 to #165. The graphics feature the arrow. 

Andrew

New power freshly delivered from EMD arrived on the High Plains Route this week. Ahem.. I mean Sunset . 

Erik C Lindgren posted:

New power freshly delivered from EMD arrived on the High Plains Route this week. Ahem.. I mean Sunset . 

Sales were provided by Caboose Stop Hobbies EMD sales division 

http://caboosehobbies.com

Erik C Lindgren posted:

New power freshly delivered from EMD arrived on the High Plains Route this week. Ahem.. I mean Sunset . 

I see you finally seen the light.  

Spent the last few days modifying my SD9:

• Converted to PS3 (used a RailKing SD9 as the donor).  Fairly straightforward,  but you have to make sure no wires overhang the sides of the PS3 board, and alas, there is simply no room that I could find for the smoke unit
• Reversed the motor leads, so it starts long hood forward, per Pennsy practice
• Swaped headlight leads, so the long hood headlights light up first
• Reversed the engineer and crew, so they are looking in the direction the loco is going
• Fixed the steps. (Just broke them off and reglued)
• Weathered, using Prismacolors Soft Core pencils per Michael Gross’s article in the latest MRH, as well as with an air brush, some washes, and some pan pastels.  These would be fairly new in the era I model, so they would be fairly clean

This has to be one of the smoothest running and quietest locos I own.  Slow speed operation is excellent, and it also has quite a lot of pulling power. And with twelve wheel pick up (This is a 2 rail model, of course), if this thing stalls, its your trackwork.

John Sethian posted:

Spent the last few days modifying my SD9:

• Converted to PS3 (used a RailKing SD9 as the donor).  Fairly straightforward,  but you have to make sure no wires overhang the sides of the PS3 board, and alas, there is simply no room that I could find for the smoke unit
• Reversed the motor leads, so it starts long hood forward, per Pennsy practice
• Swaped headlight leads, so the long hood headlights light up first
• Reversed the engineer and crew, so they are looking in the direction the loco is going
• Fixed the steps. (Just broke them off and reglued)
• Weathered, using Prismacolors Soft Core pencils per Michael Gross’s article in the latest MRH, as well as with an air brush, some washes, and some pan pastels.  These would be fairly new in the era I model, so they would be fairly clean

This has to be one of the smoothest running and quietest locos I own.  Slow speed operation is excellent, and it also has quite a lot of pulling power. And with twelve wheel pick up (This is a 2 rail model, of course), if this thing stalls, its your trackwork.

Good to know conversion will work. Question.

What size tach tape did you use?

How did you secure the tach reader?

Did you use the headlights from the RK or were you able to use the ones that came with the engine?

Suzokovich

30 mm tach tape.  Got really lucky, as the RK and SS SD9s have the same overall gear ratio of 10.5:1

The Tachreader was secured using the bracket from the RK model.  I cut it out by removing the radial spokes,  leaving just the holder and the about 200 degrees of the circumferential clamp.  The clamp was used to locate it the thing.  The holder is fixed to the motor with Goo and Gorilla Glue Super Glue Gel.  I set my tach reader tape spacing to .060"

I used all the lighting (headlights, number board, cab light) that came with the Sunset engine. 

Special Thanks to Dave Minarik, who several pages earlier in this thread opened one up and showed me the PS 3 would fit.  It does, but as I said above, there is no room for any wires outside the PS3 board.  Incidentally, I was able to use two convienient tapped holes in the chassis to mount the PS3 board mount.  That, the gear ratio, and the lighting compatibility is almost as if Scott planned it that way 

Here is another photo..I blended the weathering better.  And fixed the fence!

Nice John

thanks for sharing. 

Nice work John, the light weathering sure makes all the details pop.

John,

That looks great!  I thought I might want to convert to PS3 but I have been getting used to the ERR.  

Did you happen to take any photos of the inside with the PS3 installed?

Thanks,

Dave

David Minarik posted:

John,

That looks great!  I thought I might want to convert to PS3 but I have been getting used to the ERR.  

Did you happen to take any photos of the inside with the PS3 installed?

Thanks,

Dave

Here you go:

 I kept the smoke and smoke volume control pots because they have wires in common, and I did not know if I would compromise the sound if I cut them out.   I am an amateur on this.   Also, I used the RK speaker, it fit right under the Sunset speaker clamp ring.  I was originally concerned because there was no room for any kind of sound baffle. But Sunset has designed it so the floor and end walls of the cab interlock with the side walls of the shell to form a tight baffle.

For what it's worth, I really like the sound of this unit.   As well as the way it runs.

And David, thanks for taking the time to talk to me on the phone about this!

Any time John!   The install looks nice.

Thanks for posting the photos!  

Dave

Video...video....video!!!

Had a little time this weekend to run the SD9. The previously-mentioned problem with the Scaletrax #4 switch seems to be corrected, though there is still just a slight flicker when going through the switch--no big deal. One of these days I hope to get the SD9 weathered like several of you on the forum have done so nicely. But, in the meantime, I've included a couple of recent shots with the SD9 and the rest of the team.

Tony 

TWebSP posted:

Had a little time this weekend to run the SD9. The previously-mentioned problem with the Scaletrax #4 switch seems to be corrected, though there is still just a slight flicker when going through the switch--no big deal. One of these days I hope to get the SD9 weathered like several of you on the forum have done so nicely. But, in the meantime, I've included a couple of recent shots with the SD9 and the rest of the team.

Tony 

Nice.  Like the backdrops and how you blended the trees into it.