736 Berkshire Motor Service question

@Joe FC posted:

-Mechanicals are lubricated,

Describe this step in detail... this is where most come up short.

Also, does it run better in reverse than in forward?

@Joe FC posted:

..the field winding ... it ohms out at around 1 ohm to motor (ground)....

The field & armature are wired in series through the e-unit so this is fine.

Your e-unit is fine too, but your transformer is on the small side at 65 watts & 16 volts maximum output. Type LW, SW, or KW would be much more appropriate for a 736 with smoke & whistle.

Thanks for the reply.

As for Lubrication, I checked the grease in the the worm for quantity and quality. It wasn't thick as grease gets with time. It was serviced by a co-worker about 6, 7 years ago who is a Lionel hobbyist. I did the motor shaft and the points outlined in the Lionel service specs I dug up online.

As for the transformer, it only does 11 volts, so there may something to that. Locomotive only draws less than 3 amps, which is about 30 watts. Would 16 volts be safe for the motor?

Do you feel the field winding is good?

Joe

Sorry, forgot to add that forward/reverse are the same.

18 volts is your friend.  The motor drawing only three amps dispels any issue with shorted windings.

The worm has to be cleaned & well lubed... use a modern synthetic HP grease. The side rods(very important - these transmit power from the rear axle) & all axle bushings should be oiled with a modern synthetic oil. The grease reservoir on the motor on the motor should be filled as per manual after working synthetic oil into the oilite motor bushings.

Hi, the field resistance should be about 0.9 ohms. Other than a broken wire, fields give little trouble. All the voltage drop in the motor is in the armature coils.  In your description of the problem, the thing that got my attention was the transformer voltage out put. A 1033 transformer should put out 16 volts on posts A U. If you are only getting 11, I would be looking at the transformer. If the 11 volts was under load, then I would be looking at lubrication issues like Rob recommended.

Hi all, and thanks for your input. I believe the problem is solved. It's a combination of locomotive, transformer and, yes, operator error.

First, I'll take my wacks and acknowledge I had the connections on the U-B winding, due to my misunderstanding of the voltage requirements. According to the 1033 manual, A gives me 5-16 volts, B gives 0-11. I didn't feel I should use the 5-16. Now it runs better, of course. At full tilt, it's around 14.5V. Thank you to David Johnston for that tip off. BTW, the field winding is perfect.

Next, the E-unit. While the drum still has 65 years of slight oxidation and I didn't disassemble it to check the fingers.  I'm going to change it to head off any future issue.

As far as lubrication, the grease in the well is 1956, dark and a bit on the thick side, so I'm going to take Rob's suggestion and do a grease overhaul. I'll also hit the side rods as well as the wheels with synthetic oil.

The 1033 seems to support the 736, 2630 tender, 3424 Brakeman, 3620 Searchlight and 6517 caboose. I changed all bulbs to LEDs. However, I just acquired the Signalman house and I'd like to add a couple of more simple accessories, so, as Rob indicated, which transformer would you suggest?

Thank you all again for your help and suggestions.

Joe

To answer your question, the motor can take 18v or even 20, but usually at that point they will be running so fast they fly off the track at a curve.   

I also agree a 65 year old "original" E-unit is a time bomb ticking away.  Easy fix.

What transformer?   There are many that could suite your need.   I find the newer "switching" transformers do not run the postwar era operating cars, accessories and whistles as well as the postwar transformers.    Many of the postwar transformers may have age related problems.  Not in the windings so much, but diodes, worn cords, old circuit breakers and worn contact rollers.   If getting a postwar transformere I would get a "reconditioned" or serviced one.  If you are comfortable tearing one apart and servicing yourself,  there are service kits offered with these replacement/upgrade components.

For postwar, running a single track and accessories, a TW or LW.  These also support switches well.    If running 2 tracks a KW and the big boy is the ZW for large layouts.  I run a KW with a medium layout and many accessories.   

How far are you planning to go on the layout...   My opinion is better to get a little bigger than you plan and not need it  vs. you overgrow your plan and replace it later.

@VHubbard posted:

For postwar, running a single track and accessories, a TW or LW...

A TW is at the lower end of what is needed for this outfit as it has only about 65 watts available for track power.