Under The Hood: Changing Postwar Lionel Brushes (and Springs!)

Thank you Professor Marmel!

I followed this procedure to the letter with a PW ATSF Alco. Unfortunately shortly after take off the motor decided it had enough and died. Guess the new brushes were too much for the old girl. No worries though, she's in the shop waiting her turn for a new motor. 

Bob

Thanks for taking the time to post this Mitch.  I think I need to do this on a couple engines. 

Did you install new brushes or just clean up the existing? What are some signs that you need new brushes vs clean up existing brushes?  

Thanks!

An excellent tutorial and pictures.

MELGAR

Mitch - great tutorial; that brush configuration looks just like the one on the Lionel 3927 track cleaning car; do you know of a parts place to get the brush springs and brushes?

JD2035RR posted:

Thanks for taking the time to post this Mitch.  I think I need to do this on a couple engines. 

Did you install new brushes or just clean up the existing? What are some signs that you need new brushes vs clean up existing brushes?  

You're quite welcome!    In this case, I installed new brushes.   The main reason to install new brushes versus cleaning the old ones is wear;  this will manifest itself as a loss of power,  excess sparking and,  finally,  when the brushes are too short for proper contact,   motor failure. 

MELGAR posted:

An excellent tutorial and pictures.

Thankee kindly!

Mitch 

RickM46 posted:

Mitch - great tutorial; that brush configuration looks just like the one on the Lionel 3927 track cleaning car; do you know of a parts place to get the brush springs and brushes?

Thankee!  My go-to place for parts is http://www.ttender.com/ .  Jeff will take good care of you!  Here are the part numbers and prices:

Good luck with your repairs! 

Mitch 

Mitch, thanks a million!!  Now I know where to get Lionel parts.

RickM46 posted:

Mitch, thanks a million!!  Now I know where to get Lionel parts.

My pleasure!  Glad to help.   

@JD2035RR:  I'm curious.  How did you find this thread?  It is, after all, originally over a year old... 

Mitch 

Lol I just searched ‘replace brushes’ and found your great post. After seeing the pics, it seems fairly straight forward, but it sure helps seeing it with your commentary.

That IS  good; much easier on a loco with a vertical motor. I did the brushes on my AF 300 last week(?) and since that motor is more or less horizontal, it was a little fussier...but doable. 

Mark in Oregon

Very good tutorial.  I had to re-read it 3 times cause I kept getting distracted cause there was nary a geeraff in site.  Don't know how I missed it last year.

Thanks Mitch, that worked great for replacing the brushes.

In doing so, I noticed that one of the springs is questionable. So far, "The Virginian" still runs great (with the recent addition of a replacement E Unit).

Do you have a tutorial for replacing one or all of the springs? I'm okay with soldering, if necessary.

I have the new springs on hand, if needed. OR,

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" ??

@cpasam posted:

Do you have a tutorial for replacing one or all of the springs? I'm okay with soldering, if necessary.

To be honest, I've never had to replace the springs on a postwar motor.

So, let's find out together! 

I'll use this junker motor from my spare trucks box.

1) Desolder the wire from the brush holder.

2) Open the spring retaining tab.

3) Rotate the spring.  Note that the shorter arm is on the bottom; the spring needs to be reassembled the same way.

4) Open the back gap to accommodate the spring coil. 

5) Spring is removed and ready for adjustment or replacement. 

6) Reinstall spring.  Note, again, that the short leg of the spring goes on the bottom.

7) Spring in position with short leg on top.

8) Lower the long leg into the brush holder.  Why this came out blurred, I dunno.

9) Lower the short leg into the holder and fold the tab back over it.

10) Resolder the wire in place. 

Et voila, the brush spring, she is removed and replaced!   

Hope this helps!

Mitch

Thanks Mitch, that's very helpful.

@cpasam posted:

Thanks Mitch, that's very helpful.

Glad to be of assistance!

Mitch

Mitch - on another topic, please tell me what you think about this terrific (??) idea:

I have an 022 switch that works great, except that if a train is moving too fast, the non-derail trigger doesn't work quickly enough, and there's a derailment.

Suppose I remove the fiber pin from that leg of the 022, replace it with a metal pin, then add a half track with a fiber pin at the end: will that then trigger the non-derail feature sooner?

@cpasam posted:

Suppose I remove the fiber pin from that leg of the 022, replace it with a metal pin, then add a half track with a fiber pin at the end: will that then trigger the non-derail feature sooner?

This is a long-used method but there is one caveat to your proposal... the ties on your extension "half track" must first be insulated from your added trigger rail.

Otherwise, it can be any length section to increase the timing for better switch operation, and it doesn't even need to be adjacent to the switch if that's not convenient - you can place the insulated rail section anywhere on the layout.

This is the method also for adding non-derailing to switches like the 1121 that lack that feature built-in.

Thanks Rob.  I remember that now.

@cpasam posted:

Thanks Rob.  I remember that now.

What Rob said. 

Mitch