Pecos River Double Door Boxcar Kadee Conversion

Mario nice work. One issue. You need to use a plastic draft gear box to isolate the coupler from the metal frame. Even with your shim or the ones that come with the 2R cars the metal screws have a tendency to touch the metal frame. 

suzukovich posted:

Mario nice work. One issue. You need to use a plastic draft gear box to isolate the coupler from the metal frame. Even with your shim or the ones that come with the 2R cars the metal screws have a tendency to touch the metal frame. 

Thanks, DS.

Is there something I'm missing?  Is there a worry about the metal frame and the metal Kadee box?  Its a 3-rail car.  Isn't the frame grounded to the outside rails, like most 3R equipment?

Thanks,

Mario

I was thinking the exact same thing, Mario...wondering if I was missing something.

 If you use the Kadee magnets. The trip pin is fairly close to the center rail after adjustment. On uneven trackage the pin may contact the center rail slightly and you will trip your breaker with the all metal box and coupler. If you aren't using the magnets they need not be that close to the rail. The plastic box would solve this. Re working the trip pin is an easier fix. I found you can cheat a bit on the height and still get them to work reliably.

 I run pretty much exclusively 805 all metal couplers. I did try a couple of the metal couplers with the plastic box. Just wondering if the slippery plastic allowed the coupler to move better. Really saw no difference. On the metal box I usually stake ever so slightly 2 holes not used to keep the box together. With the plastic box you couldn't do this. You had to move fast to get it in place and secure.

Thanks Dave. I saw the reply's but was dealing with a school issue. The other thing that can and has happened is with the trip in contact with the third rail is the transfer of current which cause the metal to become hot and melts the shells. Had this happen with a Atlas/P&D car of which I had used a metal insert to mount the trucks. Since I don't use the magnets I usually trim the trip pins or bend the upwards to prevent contact.  I do the same with my engines. Unless I isolate the pilot with a plastic washer(Lionel dose this with there pilots) I will use a plastic draft gear box.  Now with the spacers that Mario makes, since there attached separately,   that automatically isolates the brass pilots from the metal frame. So when you mount the shim and the Kadees, the screws will only make contact with the spacer.   .   

 The worst I've had happen. Is the brass centering spring takes the hit and distorts. I use a fast acting circuit board and often times you don't realize what happened. Your looking for a derailment that's not there. The longer the car and greater the overhang of the body. The  closer they come when going up hill.  I don't switch passenger cars and make sure the pin is bent out of harms way.

I GOTCHA!

Thanks for the heads up... I hadn't thought of that and that's really good to know.

Now, I have run a long string of cars at the club, including several K-Line die cast hoppers... So I'll have to keep an eye on them.

I don't know if I'll trim all the pins, and go with a pencil-type un-coupler or what, but for now it's steady as she goes.

I also wonder if I should be looking into nylon screws for these...

Thanks,

Mario

Nice work Mario. Did you 3D print the spacers?

AGHRMatt posted:

Nice work Mario. Did you 3D print the spacers?

I did indeed...

CentralFan1976 posted:

I GOTCHA!

Thanks for the heads up... I hadn't thought of that and that's really good to know.

Now, I have run a long string of cars at the club, including several K-Line die cast hoppers... So I'll have to keep an eye on them.

I don't know if I'll trim all the pins, and go with a pencil-type un-coupler or what, but for now it's steady as she goes.

I also wonder if I should be looking into nylon screws for these...

Thanks,

Mario

I tried them, metal screws are better. They don't break.

Mario Package arrived today. now I can start work again.   

Hi Mario

     Another fine job that raises the standards bar. Thanks.

Ray Marion

For those of you following Ed's post on Atlas coupler boxes, I've also cut & pasted the design for the coupler box and cover onto the Pecos River Brass adaptor plate that I designed...

I ordered some from Shapeways to test.  Stay tuned!

Thanks,

Mario

Voila!

Did the Santa Fe express boxcars have cushioned draft gear?

Thanks to Marker and LOS, I've turned the draft gear around to make it a standard coupler pocket. And in doing so, I found a measurement error, so I had to update the file. 

Heres the picture of my hand-modified boxes, but the new design has it flush with the end sill. 

They still use the stock factory mounting screw holes for alignment. 

PS-I had this car and the other double door conversions I've done this weekend, on the club layout for hours without issue; with either this box in the cushioned, extended configuration, or the tighter 0.0300" opening on the Atlas car!