Command control switch problems

I recall several threads concerning wiring problems.  I have 12 command switches but I haven’t experienced this problem because I run in command only, so I use track power only.  For all I know every switch I have may be wired incorrectly.

Before taking them apart, you could check the switches with a VOM for continuity between the center rail and the aux connection - there should be no continuity.  You would have to pull each one out of your layout to check.

Take a look at this fix, some of the Fastrack switches were wired incorrectly from the factory.

Fastrack Remote Switches Shorting Issue Fix.pdf

Thanks for the replies but the fix.pdf did not address my problem with two of the affected switches that I have examined.  My solution of switching the wire to the track jumper connection had solved the operation problem but not the strange "powered ground".

Tom, if you disconnect the auxiliary feed, does the problem go away?

I think the aux feed is somehow bleeding into the ground causing the voltage on the unpowered track but not sure of an easy way to localize it.

I came across this thread while looking into adding auxiliary power to FasaTrack switches. There may be a much easier way to correct the problem than shown- unsoldering/resoldering. As background, I run mainly postwar Lionel conventional but have both newer Lionel and MTH with wifi and IR controllers.  I'm redoing a layout and want the switch lighting to be independent of track power. I hadn't had any issues with any of the switches either in the old layouts nor the new mockup.  However, after reading this thread I decided to check all of my switches.  One of the 11 switches was wired incorrectly.  Naturally it was the very last one.  I went to the site recommended by gunrunnerjohn, is just John OK?  Anyway, I consider myself inept at soldering despite years of trying. While fiddling around with the switch I realized that the Track Jumper/Aux IN/AUX GND block is held down with hot glue of some sort and the block consists of 3 individual sections, one for each of the electrical connections.  These sections slide into each other and clip in place forming the block. Pry up the block (easy), rearrange the order of the block (easy) and reglue the block in place.  No soldering!  Ha-ha!  Unless you start twisting things too much and one wire detaches, or another wire is too short to make the move.  But it will work with no, or very little soldering.  With the block is freed up and the units separated it is much easier to work with, just in case you wiggled a wire or two free.