Four years ago, I posted a question about two of my MTH steam engines stalling on switches and running poorly. This poor performance continued for years, but now I think I have found a simple solution that has made a huge difference. Recently, I disassembled the drawbar connection and noticed that the stiff extra drawbar wire must make contact with the engine frame via the drawbar screw. So, I cleaned the blackening off of the screw in hopes that it would improve connectivity. When reassembled, the engines worked remarkably better. I got this idea from a couple comments made by Barry and GGG on this forum about cleaning off or replacing tender frame screws. To the techs on this forum this may sound like basic stuff, but to me it was a big accomplishment. These trains are both now running great at all speeds and creeping right through switches. I was so pleased with the results that I had to share. Thanks Speperak
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Figuring out a not so obvious solution is always very satisfying. Nice job.
well, i for one, did not know about checking screws. I try to read everything when it comes to performance and am disappointed in myself for missing that topic. Thanks for bringing it up again.
- walt
Thanks Speperak. I always assumed that ground was more for when running in 2 rail. When the option was introduced of being able to run on 2 or 3 rail with the later MTH engines, it created less wheels from contacting ground, when running in 3 rail. Performance suffers on switches because of it and I also believe command issues too. One that really bothers myself is the fact that the front pilot axle wheels are insulated from each other. A switch with anti-derail lined in the wrong position won't throw until an axle with both wheels grounded rides onto to it. I had issues with steamers running at high speed de-railing when the train was faster then the throw of the switch. I eliminated the problem by applying a bead of conductive epoxy around the back of the insulated wheel to the axle in order to ground both wheels together. I then ad a warning label to the bottom of the engine, noting the modification. I also began using a piece of glass that is large enough to cover the switch track and the tracks connected to it, in order to see if any shimming needs to be done under the tracks, to make them all touch the glass. That way the engine won't teader on the switch, which could stall the engine if a grounding wheel lifts off the grounding rail at slow speeds.
Dave, the switches that I am using are all Lionel Fastrack and I have also noticed that differences in rail height will cause stalling. Next time I have an issue I am going to try your glass measuring idea. This happens sometimes on my carpet layouts where the switches flex and move under the weight of the train. Your solution of making your engine into permanent 3 rail will also allow it to activate Fastrack crossing gates a lot better (if you have one).
Walt, I also am very interested in any and all posts addressing engine performance. This forum is a great first place to look when trying to solve a problem. Many times I have searched through old posts and have gotten ideas that have helped me resolve issues. Without naming names, I will say that there are several regulars on this forum that I always read. Lots of great info. speperak