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I am trying to install my first Cruise Commander M. Seems pretty straight forward- my only real question is about J4 marker lights and serial data:

1) I just unplugged and replugged in the the J3 connector into the new board

2) Same things with the J1 connecter -just unplug and replug.

3) ICSP I left alone.

4) J4- having trouble

a) Where is the serial data connection? Do I just need to connect it to the R2LC board directly (where the ballpoint pen is pointing)?

b) For marker lights- there are separate wires coming off the board for them (seen in pre pic)- but they aren't controlled by TMCC in the hiawatha so do I just leave those as is?

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Images (5)
  • Pre changes: Pic BEFORE any changes
  • Overview: New Board put in
  • Overview 2: New Board
  • Zoom
  • Pen pointing: Serial connection pin
Last edited by acid
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You will MOST CERTAINLY want to do a couple of custom things to this installation.

  • Remove the large bridge rectifier and tether it to the board.  The rectifier is bolted down to the chassis firmly to dissipate heat, it's a very critical step for something that large with two large motors.
  • Make sure you have sufficient heatsink for the motor driver FET's and they also need a good solid mechanical connection to a large mass of metal for proper heatsinking.

Thanks- you are referring to the bridge rectifier in the middle of the new board right? So you remove that from the circuit board and mount it on the frame as a large heatsink?

Then for the other 4 FET (those are the ones that the screws go into right)- maybe add some extra heatsinks on the outside of the mount where they are screwed in?

You wouldn't happen to have any pics of a similar job?

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Images (1)
  • Rectifier
Last edited by acid

Yep, some people have gotten away with minimal to no precautions.  OTOH, since I see a ton of stuff coming through for repair, I've probably seen a larger quantity of failures.  Pretty much all the stuff coming to me has had some sort of failure or it wouldn't need repairs.   I've replaced ton of triacs and FET's over the years, so I prefer to do the job once and not have to revisit it.  You can shoot the dice with no heatsinking, but you may be paying for it later.

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