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Elmer's will bond the Styrofoam.  But as another posted, put the locomotive in a clear plastic.

Styrofoam exposed to UV (from sun or lighting) leeches "plasticizer" which is added to the material to increase flexibility.  This is what deposits on the inside windows of your car- plasticizer in the vinyl used on dashboards and interior surfaces.

Probably you have seen the clear "cellophane" windows in train boxes that have turned to an amber color.  This is caused by the same thing-exposure to UV.  The trains themselves are not affected because they are usually protected in a plastic baggie.

Actually, I use Liquid Nails or Loctite PL300 Foamboard, they are instant bond, gap filling, and they end up stronger than the original Styrofoam.  I've receive hundreds of locomotives, a majority of them diecast steam, and many come with damage to the Styrofoam.  My repairs are done with one of those two products and I've never had issues with either.  Let either of those repairs set for 24 hours and your Styrofoam inserts are better than new.

Actually, I use Liquid Nails or Loctite PL300 Foamboard, they are instant bond, gap filling, and they end up stronger than the original Styrofoam.  I've receive hundreds of locomotives, a majority of them diecast steam, and many come with damage to the Styrofoam.  My repairs are done with one of those two products and I've never had issues with either.  Let either of those repairs set for 24 hours and your Styrofoam inserts are better than new.

John, Have you successfully used a caulk to fill in gaps caused by such things as an engine cab denting and/or breaking the Styrofoam?

I have looked at high grade acrylic caulks, but the finish seems to attract dust/etc.  Maybe use interior bathroom/ kitchen caulk rather than an exterior caulk for windows and doors that may want to be painted??

I have placed thin cardboard over these areas to help stabilize/prevent movement. One can glue or use double sided tape to hold cardboard in place.

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