Repairing Styrofoam locomotive container

I would suggest a water based glue like Elmers or Titebond Glue, not contact cement which will affect the paint.

Pete

Jeff

Styrofoam containers for storage of trains has been known to stick to the paint and ruin it.  Suggest wrapping the loco in tissue paper to protect from Styrofoam.

Charlie

Elmer's will bond the Styrofoam.  But as another posted, put the locomotive in a clear plastic.

Styrofoam exposed to UV (from sun or lighting) leeches "plasticizer" which is added to the material to increase flexibility.  This is what deposits on the inside windows of your car- plasticizer in the vinyl used on dashboards and interior surfaces.

Probably you have seen the clear "cellophane" windows in train boxes that have turned to an amber color.  This is caused by the same thing-exposure to UV.  The trains themselves are not affected because they are usually protected in a plastic baggie.

Actually, I use Liquid Nails or Loctite PL300 Foamboard, they are instant bond, gap filling, and they end up stronger than the original Styrofoam.  I've receive hundreds of locomotives, a majority of them diecast steam, and many come with damage to the Styrofoam.  My repairs are done with one of those two products and I've never had issues with either.  Let either of those repairs set for 24 hours and your Styrofoam inserts are better than new.

Hot Wire Foam Factory also sells a specialized glue formulated for styrofoam. It's available on their site, and a Google search reveals Amazon, Micro-Mark, Blick Art Supply and Ebay as additional sources.

---PCJ

Call the company and ask them if they have the container.

Thanks to everyone for your recommendations.

You have provided a good choice of glues I could use to repair the container.

Also, I will make sure everything I have that is in it's Styrofoam packaging will be properly wrapped.

This one works well:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000...68062120241014131420

John

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Actually, I use Liquid Nails or Loctite PL300 Foamboard, they are instant bond, gap filling, and they end up stronger than the original Styrofoam.  I've receive hundreds of locomotives, a majority of them diecast steam, and many come with damage to the Styrofoam.  My repairs are done with one of those two products and I've never had issues with either.  Let either of those repairs set for 24 hours and your Styrofoam inserts are better than new.

John, Have you successfully used a caulk to fill in gaps caused by such things as an engine cab denting and/or breaking the Styrofoam?

I have looked at high grade acrylic caulks, but the finish seems to attract dust/etc.  Maybe use interior bathroom/ kitchen caulk rather than an exterior caulk for windows and doors that may want to be painted??

I have placed thin cardboard over these areas to help stabilize/prevent movement. One can glue or use double sided tape to hold cardboard in place.

When bonding foam I have used FOAM SAFE CA glue for an instant bond and I have also used Aleens super tacky (Dries Clear).

But depending on how much foam I have to work with, I have also added some toothpicks that I stab into one piece and press the other piece into (along with the glue of course).  This provides extra strength and rigidity.

@DaveGG posted:

John, Have you successfully used a caulk to fill in gaps caused by such things as an engine cab denting and/or breaking the Styrofoam?

I have looked at high grade acrylic caulks, but the finish seems to attract dust/etc.  Maybe use interior bathroom/ kitchen caulk rather than an exterior caulk for windows and doors that may want to be painted??

I have placed thin cardboard over these areas to help stabilize/prevent movement. One can glue or use double sided tape to hold cardboard in place.

For filling in like that, I use the closed cell ethafoam, it's flexible and very strong.  I get all I need in various incoming shipments.  I glue it with the same foam compatible liquid nails.  Many of the glues and caulks will dissolve Styrofoam, so you need to pick something that is compatible.

I use wood glue. I also use toothpicks to line everything up and to keep the pieces in place. I press the toothpicks all the way in so they aren't seen and to help reinforce the repaired area after the glue dries. No need to remove them.