Rail-Zip treatment

A lot of hobbyists, myself included, found Rail-Zip to be a dirt collector requiring repeat applications more frequently to maintain electrical conductivity.

Oil-based cleaners also tend to reduce traction.

I used it in N scale decades ago on Atlas nickel silver track. I discontinued using it after I saw the amount of dirt that was collecting on the rail heads and freight car wheels, which translated into need for more frequent cleanings.

Unless a contact point is corroded, I have found that a good solvent is better for maintaining electrical conductivity. I use denatured alcohol and a cloth diaper to clean the rails.

However, the contact points, specifically the rail joiners, on FasTrack, do seem to benefit from a contact cleaner aimed at restoring electrical conductivity. I use Caig deoxIT DN5, applying it only on the joiners with a needle applicator. You might try doing the same with Rail-Zip.

Actually, we (LHS) probably sell more Rail-Zip to some of our RC Airplane customers than to model railroaders.  The guys that fly the really BIG airplanes often carry them to the air field in an enclosed trailer that they have modified to safely carry their planes....fuselages, wings, fuel, tools, controllers, etc..   Like other folks who have utility trailers, travel trailers, and the like having an electrical plug-in tether, many find dirt/corrosion of the several contacts at the connector to be a nuisance.  Someone in that local group found that an application of Rail-Zip solved their towing continuity issues satisfactorily.  Over time the hint has made the rounds locally.  So we keep a small supply at the shop.

Re the experience of Rail-Zip exacerbating dirt on the wheels....  Again, locally we've also encountered that opinion.  But through discussion/questions we feel most of the issues our customers encountered have to do with over-zealous application, not allowing the Rail-Zip to dry, and.......plastic wheels.   It's not much of a model railroading secret, but plastic wheels seem to become dirty more quickly than metal wheels.  Static electricity, rail cleaning fluids of all different preferences, rough/scratched railheads aggresively scoured to remove oxidation, even excessive humidity, etc., etc......they've all been blamed for dirty wheels, especially so for plastic ones.  

Opinions AND facts abound on the topic, of course.  Many tend to find solace in a favorite technique for maintaining reliable electrical contact/continuity.  It's a TEHO issue.

FWIW....

KD

I use rail zip on tinplate rollers, on the pins between the pick up and roller. It eliminates a lot of the flashing of the lights on passenger cars

That is exactly what I'm trying to do, GFTIV: Rail-Zip on pickup rollers and center rail. Shouldn't create gunk on wheels. The Rail-Zip instructions say this is a chemical reaction, so I'm hoping one application will last longer than a week.

I do not use it on the center rail. Just on the roller/pin interface

On a related note, has anyone tried Deluxe Materials' Track Magic?...

Deluxe Track Magic Link

We're (LHS) finding a wide range of favor for their products at our store in several areas....trains, static models, R/C, et al.

We've had Track Magic available for awhile, but haven't had much feedback from customers.  It reads like it would be appropriate to this posting's discussion/application.

BTW, disregard the overseas shipping caveat on Deluxe's (UK) website link, above.  The product is available through stateside wholesalers such as Walthers, Horizon, et al.

Hmmmm....I guess it's time for me to try this stuff, too!

KD

I've never had a conductivity issue with fastrack. Passenger cars seldom even flicker over the switches.

I occassionally ( 2 or 3 times a year at most)  wipe it down with 91% isopropyl when it looks dirty or when sound on a Legacy loco cuts out.

If I have any stubborn buildup. I run Lionels abrasive eraser over the track, then wipe it down with the alcohol.

 IMO,Rail zip or not, theres simply no substitute for cleaning the track.

I had a couple of pieces of rusty pre-war track and, remembering that I had bought it several years ago, thought I'd try a little bit of ZAP Rail on them.  I had forgotten that it had a sort of red tint to it and was trying to remember where I had seen that sort of red before.  Ah, yes: a bottle of concentrated DeoxIT.  Could they possibly be something very similar in content (at about 1/4 the price)?  To see if I could learn something, I took a look at the MSDS for ZAP Rail and then DeoxIT. No such luck, as Caig just lists the composition as "proprietary".   Could just be a common dye agent and nothing more.  Any thoughts on this speculative theory?

As a side note: I personally had never noticed much of an improvement after using ZAP Rail, hence why I had put it aside until a couple of days ago.

You might also try Bachman's lubricating oil on the pick-up rollers after a cleaning with 91% isopropyl alcohol, the benefit of which is that the oil is also electrically conductive.

I also like to chuck one of these mild abrasive balls into my Dremel to clean the rollers along with the alcohol - gets them really clean. They come in assorted grits on the big A.