Adding Cruise Control to K-Line J1e Hudson?

Its about as easy as it gets. Lots of room. Other than soldering one wire its four screws on the board and two connectors.

Pete

Do I just need the ERR Cruise M?

Yes, The Cruise M was made for this. You can download the manual to see whats involved but both removing the shell and replacing the board can be done under 20 minutes for a first timer, half that after you have done one.

Pete

Awesome.  Thanks Pete!  I've done a few Cruise Commander installs so this should be as easy as you say!  I guess I just wanted verification that the Cruise M was it and would work with the TMCC boards in the K-Line.  I know they are Lionel boards but I just like some affirmation! 

I've done two of them, easy and worth doing with the Cruise M

I've purchased the cruise m for steamers!  Not sure what the for steamers is vs the standard but it's a steamer so I went for it.  Thanks guys!  Pictures coming!

As long as it doesn't have K-Line Cruise installed, it's very easy.  Sometimes the K-Line cruise module handles some lighting as well as the chuffing.  FWIW, I believe that ERR is migrating to a single board that works for all types of installs, there used to be two.  The diesel board wasn't suitable for a locomotive with the wireless drawbar.  Since you don't have a wireless drawbar, that really doesn't apply to your case.

It doesn't have any cruise installed as far as I know (unless it isn't working).  Boy is this engine good looking!  I cannot wait to get the cruise installed so going up the grades and around curves won't slow it down.  Not to mention rocketing down the downhill sections!  Putting one engine on your layout that doesn't have cruise makes you realize just how awesome that feature really is!

If it has the K-Line cruise, it'll have the tach ring on the flywheel, it's a slotted wheel like the Legacy speed control wheel.

Assuming it has not been modified by a previous owner its does not have cruise. K3270-5343S is the non cruise TMCC engine. K3270-5343CC is the Cruise version. The latter are fairly uncommon offered just before the demise of K-Line.

Tackindy, no worries. The Cruise M is the ticket here.

Pete

Can be done to either engine, the Hudson uses a cherry switch and it is a straight forward conversion.  G

I sent in my order to ERR so now we just wait.  Sigh.  

No word yet.  Just checked email, no word.  Sigh.  

Maybe I didn't see it I'll check again.  Nope.  Sigh.  

tackindy posted:

I sent in my order to ERR so now we just wait.  Sigh.  

No word yet.  Just checked email, no word.  Sigh.  

Maybe I didn't see it I'll check again.  Nope.  Sigh.  

I ordered a Railsounds board from them a few months ago. No updates but it arrived in the mail in about 5 days. Patience grasshopper.

Pete

I think back to the K-Line Tank Engine, it needed a chuff switch added to replace the K-Line cruise.

Ok, I've installed but it's erratic.  Takes off sometimes and stops others.  

I think the problem may be the serial data wire.  It didn't say to cut it or anything so I put it as shown in the picture.  

Is this correct? The problem is that after a single run around the layout it stopped twice, and once I increased the speed it ran again. But twice it took off at full speed and I had to stop it with my hand as the speed control wheel did nothing.   

It appears you have the serial line connected to the correct pin on the mother board but your connection is suspect. It would be better if you cut the wire from that connector about 1" - 1 1/2" back from the connector. Strip both ends plus the end of the blue wire and use a wire nut to tie all three together.

Check the Cruise M manual again and look at the example of the K-Line Allegheny. It has the same motherboard connector.

When finished, after addressing the engine move the speed dial until 1 blink on the Command base or speed step one on the Cab2 and see if it moves. If not its either not seeing serial data or if using Legacy control you have not set the engine to TMCC or Cab1.

Pete

I normally route the wire neatly and cut it to length and solder it directly to pin-24 of the R2LC socket.  You can solder it under the MB to insure you have no interference with the R2LC insertion.  Having a good connection there is key, so do that first.

Thanks for the responses guys!  It is MUCH appreciated!  

I haven't had a chance to get back in there and work on it as I've been busy (an 8 month old will do that you know).  But as soon as I can I'll do a better job of soldering the wire to the connection.  Gunrunner, I was thinking of going direct to that post but the example showed that connection as in the example so I was "testing" with it first.  And yes the wiring job is pitiful as I was just trying to make sure that was the correct connection before cutting and soldering into place all the wires.  I guess the other wire on that connector can be cut off as it is not used?   Pete, thanks for that troubleshooting info!  I'll be using it!  

But anyway, once I'm done I'll update you guys.  And as always, THANK YOU!  

I generally remove unused wires with the pin intact in case I need a pin on a wire in the future.

I see Chuck beat me to it, don't cut it off, just pick up the tab slightly and slide it out.  I have the crimp tool and contacts, but I still save the wires, no reason to crimp one if I already have a wire prepared.

I set it up and it's got a good connection. I also set the Feature Code as 4 (is this right).  It's still rocketing off sometimes and having some jerky operation.  

Did I use the right Feature Code?  Any idea's?

Somehow it seems to be switching from TMCC to conventional.  At least that's my guess.  

Shell on or off?  Need to ensure antenna (Handrails) not grounded or not connected.  Also may want to swap R2LC if it had this behavior before.  G

Feature code is correct at AUX1-4 for steam with smoke.  I agree with George, swap the R2(4)LC and see if that helps.  Finally, I have gotten an occasional bad board from ERR, though it's not that normal.  If I suspect the CC-M, I plop it on my TMCC Test setup and see if it functions normally there.

GGG posted:

Shell on or off?  Need to ensure antenna (Handrails) not grounded or not connected.  Also may want to swap R2LC if it had this behavior before.  G

It did not have the problem before.  The shell is on when I'm testing.  I'll try again this evening with the shell off.  Can I unplug the antenna and run it without the shell for testing?  I need to check the handrails and make sure I didn't scrape off paint putting them back into the front holes on the plow.  Maybe that did it.  

THANKS for the input!  It is greatly appreciated!

Just connect a short wire to the antenna connector for the testing.  Make sure it doesn't short to anything.  For many steamers, Lionel uses a wire nut to connect to the shell.  If so, the stub that goes to the motherboard is plenty of antenna for testing.

I was wondering about the paint comment on the handrails, I don't think they rely on paint. Little plastic inserts are used to insulate the handrails.

Interesting reply from ERR. 

"Yes you are losing serial data.  A couple other people reported similar problems with K-line engines.  One person said they fixed it by putting a diode in series with the blue wire.  If it doesn't work one way, try reversing it.  Just a suggestion."

For serial data issues, I use this, it goes between the serial data and the RailSounds card. The sound card input uses an onto-isolator and draws quite a bit of current and reduces the amplitude of the serial data and the CC-M sometimes has a problem with that.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

For serial data issues, I use this, it goes between the serial data and the RailSounds card. The sound card input uses an onto-isolator and draws quite a bit of current and reduces the amplitude of the serial data and the CC-M sometimes has a problem with that.

Ok you know I follow your recommendations like the bible so...... using my picture can you dumb it down for me?  As I THINK you are saying, i would wire this into the wire coming off the plug I have that blue wire hanging on now?  

Actually, the output that is labeled goes to the serial data to the tender for the sound system.  This isolates that input load and allow the serial data to have greater amplitude to properly drive the CC-M.

As a test, just run the locomotive without the tender attached.  It will be silent, but it should run.  That will be the effect this buffer should have.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

For serial data issues, I use this, it goes between the serial data and the RailSounds card. The sound card input uses an onto-isolator and draws quite a bit of current and reduces the amplitude of the serial data and the CC-M sometimes has a problem with that.

Ok you know I follow your recommendations like the bible so...... using my picture can you dumb it down for me?  As I THINK you are saying, i would wire this into the wire coming off the plug I have that blue wire hanging on now? 

I'm guessing 1 is from the R2LC, 2 is going to the RailSounds card in the tender, and 3 is the Serial Data from R2LC going to the new ERR Cruise M?

R2LC 5VDC is tapping power from the R2LC, that's on pin-19 and pin-20 they're in parallel, so connect to either one.

R2LC Serial Data is connected in parallel with the lead going to the CC-M serial data.

RailSounds Serial Data In is connected to the serial data lead going to the tender.  It is disconnected from it's current connection and is supplied by this buffer.

One thing to note.  I show the PN2222A transistor, if you buy a P2N2222A, it'll work, but the lead assignments are not the same, you have to adjust your wiring to match.

John Peyton, have you tried just soldering the wire to pin 24 yet. I am surprised you would have to add anything to make this work. I have probably upgraded a couple of dozen K-Line engines to Cruise Ms and never had an issue like this. They just work.

In fact my last engine, a K-Line E8 with four motors and two Cruise Ms is driven with one R2LC. No diodes or buffering needed. YMMV

Pete

I unplugged the tender from the engine and still had issues running it with the tender unplugged (sounds came on when I selected engine just no sync with engine).  But removing the tender from the track fixed it!  So I think you're on to it.  

Norton posted:

John, have you tried just soldering the wire to pin 24 yet. I am surprised you would have to add anything to make this work. I have probably upgraded a couple of dozen K-Line engines to Cruise Ms and never had an issue like this. They just work.

In fact my last engine, a K-Line E8 with four motors and two Cruise Ms is driven with one R2LC. No diodes or buffering needed. YMMV

Pete

Pete, most of my upgrades of K-Line stuff has worked fine.  Occasionally, I run across a K-Line or Lionel that has an issue with the serial data, that's why I came up with the serial buffer.

Another interesting thing, and maybe this explains something, is that under the cover is the volume and a switch for "Signal or RailSounds" 

John, that's a standard feature of RS, it turns off the "automatic" sounds and just gives you whistle and bell, and I think coupler clanks.

Ok John. I've ordered the PN2222a part (10 of em).  I'm trying to figure out which wire goes to which lead on the pn2222a.  They are advertised E, B, and C but I don't know what that means.