Advice on layout top layer

I used pink foam at 1/2 4x8 for 17 bucks that would be cheaper. 2 inch 4x8 for about 30 bucks

I used the ceiling tiles, too.  But unless sound absorption is a priority I would go with with foam.  Ceiling tile is very messy, it crumbles to dust, etc., when you have to work on it, and you will.  

As to depth, I have 1/2 and sometimes wish I had one inch to easily dig down in, to make realistically deep ditches alongside roads, etc. 

Two thoughts:

1) Unless you have already installed the plywood, consider simply using Homasote instead of plywood. It is plenty strong enough, has superior sound properties,  is easy to work with (if a little messy to cut), and relatively inexpensive.

2) I agree with Jhainer that pink foam is the thing to use.  However, rather than putting a uniform slab down and then start carving, consider simply using smaller, irregular pieces where needed. That way you will (a) save material and (b) be far more likely to end up with natural, varied topography.

Thanks, everyone. I am using Fastrack so I would like the sound lessened. I had it directly on foam on the old layout and thought I would try something different. I bought damaged tiles that come to $6 per 4x8 area, so the price is good. I have foam enough from the old one to do the first 1/2", so I can do another 1" fairly inexpensive with tile.

John

Well, with Fastrack, yes, noise absorption is a big priority.

John H,

   The damaged sound suppression tiles are great stuff with FT, if you can get them, holds the cost way down and deadens the FT train sound to almost nothing, maybe a little to silent if you want to know if the kids are running the trains.

PCRR/Dave

I am looking for suggestions on what to use to fill in the seams between the tiles. also, I am wondering about a base color to paint them. Can anyone give me a specific color that works for them? "Earth tone" covers a lot of territory.

John

I solved the noise problem with Johnson Rubber Roadbed. Works like a charm.

When I had Fastrack nothing would dampen the noise to the level I wanted.  I filled the inside of the track's roadbed with expanding foam to cut the plastic's resonance.  I installed it on rubber roadbed on top of acoustic tile without screws (glue alone) into the benchwork.  I covered the walls with acoustic tile, etc.  It helped, but when I switched to Atlas track, it was so much quieter.  

This time around I started off used sound dampening 4 x 8 panel. Green fuzz was coming off it so I sealed it with clear coat. It was about 20$ ...

with the speeds I see in most videos. I don't have an issue with fastrack when running at realistic speeds.  mine is quiet the only loop that isn't quiet is the conventional loop that is mostly elevated . I do have indoor outdoor carpet on some of it but not a lot mine are pretty quiet .

I'm OK with the sound. I sure don't want to open that can of worms right now. I would like thoughts on my questions about filler for foam or tile seams and what color to use as a base before I lay some track.

John

John

About the sound deadening 1. Adding scenery will help with the sound absorption. 2. Are you running new engines with the sounds and chatter, if so don't think the sound  you are trying to mask. 3. try running your trains at a slower speed the track noise is much lower than when high balling around the layout

As for the color question use any earth brown color, sometime I go to Home Depot or Lowes and look for the OOPS pile of custom colors that customers didn't like usually for about $5-8 a gallon.

Enjoy the journey

Steve

Earth tone is generic because you determine the specific shade that will be applied. Depends upon the area that you are modeling and which colors the ground has in it.

My layout is based on Alaska. Lots of gray due to the type of bedrock pushed out of the ocean millions of years ago. Some surface red in the southern volcanic areas. Even in the warmer areas, the topsoil is mostly grey.

So, even using a "toy" approach to the scenery a base of light gray is the primary color.

The ceiling tiles will suck up paint. So, inexpensive latex is a good color.

You'll have a lot of seams using the tiles. I would think a painter's grade caulk would work. Then, a dozen or so tubes won't mitigate the savings on the material find.

Thanks for the help. Does it matter which side is up for the tiles? One side is like a paint coating with random pockmarks and the back is a little harder brown coating. The back may not take as much paint to cover.I have enough tile to do about half(150sqft), so I could try something else on the rest. I am learning as I go because my last layout just had green felt on the whole thing.

John

John H,

   For my child like wonderland layouts, after laying the tile cover my layout with some kind of indoor/outdoor carpet, really wipes out the noise and levels everything out to work on, further with this manner of construction you have absolutely no seams from the ceiling tile to worry about at all.

PCRR/Dave

Does anyone use Midwest Cork Roadbed directly on top of 1/2 inch plywood without using anything else in between?   Thinking about ease of installation and cost-cutting.