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I am busy finishing up my wiring and of course as usual I do some things *** backwards. I was proud to have lots of power drops installed, even on my passing sidings. Then, after hooking up a couple of toggle switches, I couldn't figure out why I wasn't able to switch off the power. In the middle of the night, I woke up with that proverbial lightbulb over my head! Headed down to the train room in the morning and UNSOLDERED some power drops.....bingo!

BTW, I am using Fastrack because I have a ton of it, and I am running conventional with a Z4000. Two separate loops on their own bus. I DO have the remote which works with it BUT have not programmed anything yet. Most of my engines are MTH Railking.

So, here is my question, I have two long sidings (one is 12' and the other is 18', both are on a curve) more of an outer loop, I guess. I would like to isolate them but feel that they need their power feeds. How would I do this? I am also soldering jump wires connecting a lot of tracks underneath. Would that be enough? Is it possible to divide the siding into two sections, isolating each separately?

TIA,

Mikki

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@Mikki posted:

So, here is my question, I have two long sidings (one is 12' and the other is 18', both are on a curve) more of an outer loop, I guess. I would like to isolate them but feel that they need their power feeds. How would I do this? I am also soldering jump wires connecting a lot of tracks underneath. Would that be enough? Is it possible to divide the siding into two sections, isolating each separately?

Well, I've never used Fastrack (I use O-27 profile tubular), but sure, you can create as many isolated sections as you need. Assuming your outer rails are all common, you just need to install insulators (fiber or plastic pins on tubular track, whatever the equivalent is for Fastrack) at each end of the center rail in the desired isolated section, and provide a separate power feed somewhere in that section. Then, you just need to connect a separate power source to that section (or a SPST toggle switch to apply or cut off the power from the connecting track, or a SPDT switch to select between power sources, etc.).

Last edited by Steve Tyler

Thanks for your replies, Rob and Steve. I do have that Fastrack book, Rob, and it has been helpful although they could certainly add a bit more detail or "what ifs". I have indeed successfully isolated one stub end siding and two short pass throughs. It took a few mistakes first but once I unsoldered the feeder wires it worked. My concern is that 18-foot outer loop, will it have enough power to run a train consistently and smoothly without a power drop in there?

Mikki

If you have a dead end siding either cut the middle hot rail with a Dremel cutting wheel or something like it or use the 1⅜" track with the isolation cut already in it then have your power drop in that siding go through a toggle switch and power drops out to the siding. If your siding connects back to another track at both ends, you have to do the same at both ends of the siding, wire your power drop through the toggle switch and out to your power drops on the siding.

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