My American Flyer #779 oil drum loader stopped working. Motor works but nothing moves so I took it apart and found that the motor uses a rubber belt to turn a gear drive. The rubber belt seems to have stretched is not able to turn the gears. Any ideas on where to get a replacement?
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You might want to try Port Line Hobbies. He is a big S gauge supplier...
Marty
Thanks! They have the part. While ordering it I also ordered metal replacement gears for the AF sawmill. That one was also FUBAR. The plastic gears were stripped.
Kaput???
is that where the lilliputions from
the wizard of OZ live???
Must be the Lionel version of the barrel loader. The Gilbert version uses no belts and runs forever.
How come the belt is listed as an AF part? You have to take the gearcase apart to find the belt.
Not sure if this helps but the gear box is Lionel's AF part #2315-300. You may be able to match the belt at the local hardware store or check with Jeff Kane at the Train Tender he carries some AF parts.
I found a part list and drawing at the TrainDr.com site. I have completely disassembled, cleaned, oiled, greased and sanded. It is now functioning. The electric rotor is old and does not have a lot of "strength" but it works. Thanks again for all the help. I had all 6 grandchildren and my 3 kids over last night and they enjoyed "Train time" on my layout. Life is good. When you have your 15 yr old granddaughter taking pictures of your layout to show to her friends, then all is well.
I just bought one of the Gilbert versions on eBay. Does anyone know if it runs on AC or DC power? Will it run on the 14v AC output on my MTH Z4000?
14VAC is fine for any of the original Gilbert accessories.
So I got my eBay auction, and the arm that drives the man and the car are bent and missing a post for the car to ride on. I can find replacement arms, but I can’t figure out how to replace it! When I take the lid off, there is simply a gear that attaches to the arm shaft, but there’s no retaining ring per the manufacturer’s repair bulletin. Does anyone have any suggestions for this? I’m attaching photos…
You might want to find a brad nail of the right diameter and glue it to the existing arm and then straighten out the arm. I haven't run into a loader with the configuration you show in the photos.
I have two of those barrel loaders, and they work tirelessly at our train shows. They are loved by all who see them in action.
As Lenny said bending the arm a little so it isn't rubbing anything can be done. Do it with the loader right side up. I wonder if you can pull the inner pin out and JB weld it to the outer hole?
Aflyer
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