I have a Gilbert 21801 Baldwin that is good to go except for one recurring issue - the right (i.e. engineer's) side brush will not stay soldered to its tab. The left side is fine, but for some reason this right side gets enough heat and/or vibration to melt the solder and loosen the brush every time after about 10 minutes of continuous running. I've checked the wiring, cleaned armature comms and gaps, there's free play and spinning of the armature, good 2-position reverse unit finger contact with internal rocker, but I can't rid this engine of this one annoying gremlin. Do you have any suggestions? Is there something I missed? These engines aren't the greatest and often run hot, noisy, and sometimes cantankerous, but this one other than this recurring issue actually now runs pretty well. Should I try a temperature resistant conductive silver epoxy like AA-DUCT 904 instead of solder on that brush? Or Radio Shack Wire Glue - has anyone used that before? Super glue does not work - tried reinforcing the solder with that around where the brush attaches to the tab, but it just fries away. Thanks.
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Are you using the original brushes or are these replacements, possibly the location of the brush to the armature commutator. If no other solution would you consider converting to can motor. I did that with my 355 and my 812, both run much better at slow speeds.
Just a thought.
Ray
Rayin "S" - thanks. These are PA14A414 brushes for Baldwins. Can motor is an option, but have not discussed with owner. Really aside from this pesky problem, no need to go that far - I hope.
The one brush has probably been replaced using a low temperature solder. You might check your local electronics store and ask for a slightly higher temp solder than your standard electronics solder.
Thanks Chuck. Both the left and the right brushes were replaced at the same time using the same method and solder - Alphametals 60/40 #31605 rosin core. The left brush is fine. The right one fails every time - the solder melts away, the brush shifts and falls out.