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Greetings all:

I grew-up with tin-plate S-gauge Flyer and minimal O-gauge Lionel and Marx.

Am getting re-acquainted with toy-trains in my middle-age. 

Recently acquired my first Standard Gauge Outfit, a Lionel #38 S-2 Electric, and three coaches, #35( x2) and #36, and some period track, from the late ' Teens / early Twenties.

I always remembered Lionel & Gilbert track being pretty bright & shiny for the rails.

The Standard Gauge track I have (early Lionel)  is a very dull gray, almost greenish-gray. There are some bright patches on the rail web, and on the underside of some ties.

All "top surfaces" are a pretty uniform dull gray; except where there's brown rust.

Was this Standard Gauge track once bright, shiny tin ?

Is this dull gray color a tarnish / patina of  the tin-plate, and just an artifact of the aging process ? 

Will all tin-plate track eventually go dull & dark ?

Thanks ! 

Fran McM.

(The sample  track in the photos was exposed to dampness at some point, indicated by the brown rusty / crusty spots.)



Attachments

Images (3)
  • IMG_5445  - 2 curve track, both 'fair', some pitting on rail-tops: sample track, dull on top.
  • IMG_5446 - 2 curve track, both fair, from other side, can see some bright tin on rail web.: Some brighter tin on "webs" of rails
  • IMG_5447 - 2 curve strack, undersides, slightly brighter tin.: same tracks, undersides with patches of brighter tin...
Last edited by Fran McM
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The last time we made rail the only tinplated steel we could buy was the bright finish.  Previously we had been using material that had uniform dull finish.  Functionally both are fine, but the bright finish probably makes any tarnish or stains more apparent.  I rather like the old fashioned dull finish, but many of our customers like the bright, especially if it is paired with bright nickel plated ties.

Kirk Lindvig, USA Track LLC

www.standardgaugetrack.com

Thanks for the replies, all! 

Aside from any brown rust-spots, the graying is so uniform, I began to wonder if it had always been that way.

Is there any way to chemically brighten the tin w/o removing it ?   Mechanical means would tend to remove / strip the tin plating, I would think...

I don't think I'm going to waste my time on brown / pitted track...

Fran McM.

I hope my translation is understandable. There is a easy chemical way.

You need a tub, in a stainless steel sheet, on it to protect against short circuit a few plastic parts, then the track. Now fill up with caustic soda or baking soda and water.

chem01

Now you need  a DC power source, to the stainless steel sheet the positive pole and to the track the negative pole (in three-conductor track the middle rail also needs a connection)

You need only 3-5 V but much current. Today I use a old computer power source with 30 A.

Don´t do it indoors. There is a bit hydrogen in the process.

chem02chem03

Cleaning needs only a few minutes.

Bing track before and after.

chem05

Marklin track, goes more to black after cleaning.

chem25

Arne

 

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Images (5)
  • chem01
  • chem02
  • chem03
  • chem05
  • chem25
Last edited by Arne

You can use a higher end battery charger to do the electrolysis tank cleaning like Arne is demonstrating.

I have one that has several amperage settings that I use when cleaning rusty metal objects.

Never have tried this cleaning method on tinplate track or shells ,but  have always pondered it.

The use of the stainless sheet is what I wasn't thinking about for tinplate I'm sure.  

I use the Armor Hammer caustic soda ,not  the baking soda.

Good tip Arne ! 

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