all curves vs curves with straight

Doesn't technically matter, except for actually making things "fit" on your layout. You do want to ensure that you have adequate spacing so longer cars won't sideswipe the train on the adjacent track. While laying your track it is a good idea to roll cars on the curves to check spacing.

It does take a little of the symmetry out. For a 180 turn, one thing I like to do is mix radii of curves to make it progressive. Start with the larger and switch to tighter in the center of the turn.

The one place where you do want to add a straight is in a S curve. Give yourself at least one car length (longest in your roster) straight section in the center of the "S" between curves. If you don't, you run the risk of having a truck on one end pointing an opposite direction from a truck on the other end of the same car. Besdies not looking prototypical, that is a recipe for derailment.

Gilly

Just my personal preference... I'd rather go with the appropriate concentric curve radius rather than introduce pieces of straight track -- even if you wind up needing flex-track in the process (assuming your layout isn't temporarily set up on carpet, in which case your options are limited to sectional track offered).

Also... be careful with the 3.5" center-to-center spacing.  That could yield real tight clearances on curves.

Best of luck!

David

Yeh, I also think curves only.  The trains look smoother running through them without a straight section, IMHO.

Curves broken up with short sections of straight track is the classic toy trains look. It produces a jerky motion as the train goes from curve to straight to curve.... If you want the postwar look and feel, that is the way to go.

For a more realistic hi-rail look, smooth concentric curves are best. Consider what size equipment you will be running and test to see what clearance you need between tracks.

Jim

I use only Gargraves flex track and make my curves the maximum radius my space permits.  I only have straights between S curves and where I have switches.  The length of the straight is the same as my longest locomotive.  This allows for very smooth operation and a great look.

I will say like Jim, and I would like to add that in scale modeling you try to make the transition smoother between a line an a curve, so you make a section of track before the curve with a  larger radius , they call it easement; putting a strait section in the middle of a curve will kill the idea of smooth transition. 

Just to add a little about spacing, remember your larger steam engines if you run any as they may need extra spacing, the tender steps may stick out a little further than you realize, T-1 steam engine & tender.

Lee F.

Depends on the arc. Use of extension straights on a 45-degree arc doesn't look all that bad but the bigger the arc to be adjusted with intermediate straights, the worse it gets. If you use flex track to make easements or use decreasing-radius curve sections, you can get the desired result, but without the odd look.

The exception is if you have a 180-degree curve. Using O-72 and O-81 curves, you could offset the approach to the O-81 curve with a small (1.75") straight to space the curves out, but it doesn't look toy-like since there's still a sense of concentric curves.

thanks for all the advice, looks like bigger curves for me.