Skip to main content

Replies sorted oldest to newest

An E 6 premier in another post. Can't find the box for this but it,s a P&LE GP PS3.. Ran into something and took me a few seconds.  to react. Shell removed  Non tachometer motor stuck..push on flywheel starts  the motor but it runs way slower than the tach motor. Also the tach  motor will start and the other motor doesn't start until 10 MPH 

Last edited by dobermann
dobermann posted:

At first only the motor with the tach tape was running. A little push got the other motor running but it starts later and doesn't run as fast as the tach motor.  Any suggestions ?

If the other motor turns free through a full rev of the wheels, I wouldn't worry about it.  That motor is somewhat "along for the ride" when you have a speed control on one motor only.  When I do bench testing on the rollers, the motor with tach sensor always starts first and the second motor only run when I add speed or add friction to the monitored motor to increase the drive voltage.

I didn't see the actual crash. After the abrupt stop it wouldn't move with 10 car load .Tach motor wheels were spinning. Put it on rollers and the rest is what you just read. Motor speeds aren,the even close to each other. Later today I'll  put it back on the track but I'm pretty sure the results will be the same 

dobermann posted:

At first only the motor with the tach tape was running. A little push got the other motor running but it starts later and doesn't run as fast as the tach motor.  Any suggestions ?

Thanks

joe

I have an MTH RK F3 unit that does something very similar. On the rollers, only the tach motor would move until about 6 or 7 SMPH, then the other motor would start to move but slower. On the track by itself the engine would jerk at low speeds until you got it up to about 5 SMPH. It would operate much better when it was under load.

I figured a motor is going out but as long as it was working with a load, I won't do anything with it until another failure warrants the need for a replacement.

Resolve the binding.  May have a bent motor shaft, friction on the gears, side frame bent and touching a drive wheel adding friction.  Something from the collision or drop has damaged a truck/motor combination.  Side frames bent into the drive wheels is a problem I have seen before that is hard to detect unless you look for it.  It acts like a brake is applied to that truck. 

John,  The motor is not along for the ride.  They are the same motor with in tolerance and get the same voltage.  So a 5 to 7SMPH difference in starting means a problem.  Tolerances are not that great.   In the long run one motor will get burned up.  G

George, my point was that the motor that doesn't have the speed control isn't locked to the other one.  When they're on the track, there won't be any signs of a mismatch with properly operating motors.  However, when running them on the bench with rollers or with the wheels free, it looks a lot worse than it is.

If you read my reply, I first stated you have to check for binding, that's pretty obvious.

Add Reply

Post
This forum is sponsored by MTH Electric Trains

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×