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I was able to score a "318E" and it arrived today:

318 [1)

I was hoping it would be in slightly better condition, but it's got enough paint loss and a few fairly major dents...

318 [2)

...to warrant a full-on restoration/rescue. That's okay with me, since this is the kind of stuff I enjoy doing.

First impressions:

It's quite a bit larger and heavier than my #10; the gearing looks to be similar. This is the "Mohave" paint color?

It's got the slot for a manual reverse lever, yet it's an "E"; I guess there must be some sort of "e" unit stuck up in there someplace...

The wheels are in good shape (), and so I see an order from Hennings in the near future for a headlight and maybe some handrail posts.

Any advice on how to straighten those dents?

Mark in Oregon

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@Strummer posted:

I was able to score a "318E" and it arrived today:

I was hoping it would be in slightly better condition, but it's got enough paint loss and a few fairly major dents...

...to warrant a full-on restoration/rescue. That's okay with me, since this is the kind of stuff I enjoy doing.

First impressions:

It's quite a bit larger and heavier than my #10; the gearing looks to be similar. This is the "Mohave" paint color?

It's got the slot for a manual reverse lever, yet it's an "E"; I guess there must be some sort of "e" unit stuck up in there someplace...

The wheels are in good shape (), and so I see an order from Hennings in the near future for a headlight and maybe some handrail posts.

Any advice on how to straighten those dents?

Mark in Oregon

Has the same motor as the 10... a lionel Super Motor. there were a couple configurations of this motor.  Look in you new book on page 188 for a brief discussion on super motors. The slot is for reverse lockout switch.  Dents.... the ones on the edge are easy... some light hammer and dolly work...or some hard wood jigs.  The one in the middle is tougher.

@Rob English posted:

Has the same motor as the 10... a lionel Super Motor. there were a couple configurations of this motor.  Look in you new book on page 188 for a brief discussion on super motors. The slot is for reverse lockout switch.  Dents.... the ones on the edge are easy... some light hammer and dolly work...or some hard wood jigs.  The one in the middle is tougher.

Thank you Rob.

Here is a photo with body removed:

-8195855698562496579

Very different from the #10, in that the "10" doesn't have this "chassis enclosure".  As you can see, someone did a pretty funky re-wire job; no "e" unit, so it runs in one direction only. I don't suppose I'll be able to find an "e" unit...

One of the couplers was broken, but replacing it was a snap; just removed the flag holders and the screws holding the pilot came out. With the pilot removed, the coupler just slid into place; much easier than on the "10", where the coupler was riveted in place.

Will be needing (2) headlights; one is missing, and here is the other:  

-6646398859009775234

...can anyone say "Hennings"?  

This may in fact turn into more of a project than the "10" was...

Mark in Oregon

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  • -8195855698562496579
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Thank you, Jim.

Pretty much done, I think; headlights installed and working, handrails in place.

318 #1

318 #2

Headlights: I had to use the original "T" connectors; for some reason, the ones that came with the replacement headlights sat a little too low, so the brass contact "spot" wasn't hitting the bulb contact. Odd, because I was able to use those replacements as delivered on the #10 project...good thing the originals were included with this engine.

Mark in Oregon

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