Skip to main content

I have collected a descent amount of MTH engines (around 25, all Proto 2).  I do not have a permanent layout at home at the moment. I do set up a test track occasionally, and recently joined a club with a layout I may run my trains on now and then. Charging batteries over night on the charger can become a little annoying at times (especially when multiple engines need to be charged); and so can keeping track of which engines I have and have not replaced the batteries on. So I am leaning toward replacing all the batteries with BCRs. Any reason other than cost not do make the switch? Also, where is the best place to buy BCR's  J and W electronics)? Last question, what year did MTH make the switch from 5v to 3v? Easy way to see which of my trains take which batteries. Thanks for the help!
Last edited by mustangtodd97
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

Originally Posted by mustangtodd97:
 Last question, what year did MTH make the switch from 5v to 3v? Easy way to see which of my trains take which batteries. Thanks for the help!

Todd,

 

There was no clear cut-off date for the switch. Best way to tell is by looking at the charging port on the underside. A round port for a barrel connector is the 5 V board needing the original BCR. A rectangular port indicates a 3 V board needing a BCR2.

 

No charging port would also indicate original BCR.

 

I got mine direct from J&W.

 

I have seen no downside at all to using BCRs in all my engines. Whether they are worth the switch IMO depends on how many batteries/engines you have whose condition you need to keep track of, and how difficult battery changes are on a particular engine.

 

Jim

Last edited by Jim Policastro

You can also make your own.  A search of the forums and you'll find the instructions.  As for not switching, I do not know if this is an issue with any PS-2 locomotives, but I do know that some PS-1 locomotives will not work with a BCR for some reason.  Other than that, having been bit by a low battery issue on one of my PS-1 locomotives, all mine are getting BCRs or TMCC upgrades because not having BCRs is a pain as you said.

Originally Posted by Jim Policastro:

       
Originally Posted by mustangtodd97:There was no clear cut-off date for the switch. Best way to tell is by looking at the charging port on the underside. A round port for a barrel connector is the 5 V board needing the original BCR. A rectangular port indicates a 3 V board needing a BCR2.



 

No charging port would also indicate original BCR.

 

I got mine direct from J&W.

 

I have seen no downside at all to using BCRs in all my engines. Whether they are worth the switch IMO depends on how many batteries/engines you have whose condition you need to keep track of, and how difficult battery changes are on a particular engine.

 

Jim


       



Thank you for the tip. I just thought maybe the year would be an easy way to tell so I didn't have to unbox them all before I purchased the BCRs.
Originally Posted by Joe Allen:

 but I do know that some PS-1 locomotives will not work with a BCR for some reason.

 

Sinclair,

 

If the charging circuit isn't working or broken wire in between or the clip, the BCR will not charge up. A check with a meter will tell if this is the problem and a rechargeable battery will soon go dead.

It's not any that I have, that I know of yet since I haven't converted all mine yet.  I'm just going off of some threads I have read here where someone was having issues and when they removed the BCR and put a battery back in it worked just fine.  I think one was an early A-B-A set with slave boards.

So I am leaning toward replacing all the batteries with BCRs. Any reason other than cost not do make the switch?

 

This was Todd's original question.

 

I'd like to add to that with this...Is there any reason to replace the battery if it's still working?

 

From what I recall folks saying, PS2 electronics don't get scrambled if the battery goes dead (please confirm).  So if I wake up one morning and find a dead battery is the cause for an engine not running, my thought is to replace it at that time.

 

I'm a home layout guy and don't run on a club layout, so maybe Todd's case would warrant the need to make sure his engines are capable of running before he leaves the house.

In answer to "Is there any reason to replace the battery if it's still working?" 

 

Yes, Dead batteries can and do leak. 

 

A BCR in a seldom run engine eliminates any possibility of damage caused by a leaking battery.

I'm with Jim, the best place to get BCR's is from J&W.  He was first to market and in my experience, his are the best.   I've had a couple brand "x" units fail, but more than 3 dozen from J&W are all perfect after many years.

 

I think J&W offers a discount for quantity purchases, I know he does at York.

 

 

Yes, Dead batteries can and do leak.

 

Pat, I've always thought that too, but in the PS2 upgrade booklet, on page 43, it states that:

 

The battery is a dry battery that should not leak or cause any damage to your engine.

 

Capacitors leak also,  when I worked in electronics back in the 70s I replaced many capacitors inside navy gear.  They leaked a white, crystalline-looking substance that looked like the corrosion you see around car battery terminals.

 

I've said elsewhere that I have (running) PS2 engines that are 10 years old and still have the original batteries, so I have yet to replace any of them.  When the time comes (may be REAL soon) I'll give the BCR a try.

 

I will crack open my 3rd Rail E7 though , I think it has a regular 9 volt battery inside and I know they leak.  I don't think I put a battery in my Lionel GP9 but I'll check that too.

Last edited by Bob Delbridge

It is possible for a dead battery that presents a short or very low impedance load to the charging circuit to damage it.  I can't say for certain, but I've had three 5V board equipped PS/2 engines for repair in the last few months with a totally dead battery.  In each case, the charging circuit was dead on the board.  Of course, this required replacing the board set as I've never been able to repair that failure on a 5V board set.

Post
The DCS Forum is sponsored by
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×