Anyone make 2 rail track similar to Realtrax/Fastrack?

I bought Used MTH Realtrax & pulled out the center-rail & use it to run 2-rail trains on my basement floor. I used the widest radius available, O-82 & have 1 or more 10” sections on either end of the curved section. I recently also bought the largest Realtrax switch, O-72, used & when I get time, I will figure out a way to modify them to run 2-rail trains over them.

These are just my opinion,

Thanks,

Naveen Rajan

Actually, this is a great idea and the 2R track looks a lot better than the 3R as it was before....

I haven't seen anything available, but I like Naveen's approach. I'm thinking that could also be done with Lionel FasTrack, which also will support scale wheels and, though expensive, is now available up to 48" radius.

I tried 072 Fast Track with an MTH scale wheeled French steam loco  2-3-1 and in the curves one side of the loco would "fall in" the track and continue running while tilted. It was going at very low speed and no danger of flipping so I watched it for a while. the same thing happened a few more times but not 100% of the time. I did not investigate any further since I did not really care for the track. By no means FT is not a good system, I think it is, but for me it did not work out. May be there was something wrong with the loco driver's gauge....who knows...

I think the scale-wheeled Euro engines are finescale wheels as opposed to "standard" scale wheels. I believe the wheels thinner than the North American units. My experience with scale wheels on FasTrack were MTH US diesels with Weaver and Atlas Cars with scale wheels (Intermountain steel wheels on the Weaver cars).

Both of the track systems you mention have a hollow plastic drum like base.  

Ross track has snap in rubber like roadbed which should be much quieter plus not slide around like hard plastic for floor running. 

Also Ross has 64" radius sectional curves.  Because their product is all hand made you could order the track with out the center rail installed so there would be no marks on the ties from the removed center rail.

Investigate using GG two rail flex track for tangent application and adapt the Ross straight roadbed.

As an experiment I modified a Ross double crossover switch. I cut the tabs under the switch with a Dremel and isolated the center track. I attached Gargrave 3 rail track to it leaving the center rail dead. I ran 2 rail trains over it. The trains I run are scale with Q Car trucks and motors with his wheels. The trains run flawlessly. I do not like the look of tinplate

track so I will not be using this system. When I dissmantle it all I have to do is solder the cut tabs on the switches and they are 3 rail again. I prefer solid nickel plated rail as I have a problem with EZ street trolley track. I find that they rust up in my basement kind of like tubular tin track. I like to tinker so I am not adverse to trying other things. I have thought of experimenting with the The Lionel and MTH track with the center rail removed and a thin piece of strip of styrene over the tie from rail to rail. The next time I come across some I will try it. Otherwise I will stick to my Atlas.

Nate

Base on experience running 2R rolling stock I have come across the following issues which ultimately forced an change to 3R wheel sets. Now with the recent posts by Erik and some others in the 2R forum. I am actually now considering the change from 3R Scale to 2R Scale with my next layout. But until then, I plan on using GG/Ross switches & track as the have flat rail tops , which will allow the use of 2R rolling stock   

Use fast track to run 2R ultimately dose not work for several reasons:

Fast track is rounded and causes the 2R wheel sets to slip and lean to one side. This is especially prevalent when using metal 2R wheel sets.

Fast track turnouts have two much gap at the frogs. It is an easy fix by glue a peace of thin styrene to decrease the gap( this eliminates the dropping into the gap an prevents derailments at the frogs). The next issue with the turnouts( this only happens when reversing). The 2R wheel sets flanges are thin and have a tendency follow the rail instead of the rail of the switch rail itself due to not seating flush with the track.

For 2R carpet central I would recommend using thin wood cut to the width of the track for a base with cork and track on top secured by screws. The advantage would be the ability to lay ballast remove the excess and you will have far better stable track bed and it will look a lot better then Fast track or Real trax.  Just my opinion

"For 2R carpet central I would recommend using thin wood cut to the width of the track for a base with cork and track on top secured by screws. The advantage would be the ability to lay ballast remove the excess and you will have far better stable track bed and it will look a lot better then Fast track or Real trax.  Just my opinion"

    I agree, 2 rail track is also less expensive than Fast track or MTH Realtrak.  If one had the storage space for the sections 2 rail flextrack could be glued or screwed to longer sections of plywood so there could be less joints. Curved plywood bases would allow any desired radius and not just what Lionel and MTH offer. The wooden section bases could be made as wide as desired to allow ballast and some basic scenery ,perhaps spots to set buildings or signals when running.  I once made a one piece HO scale Christmas tree track by cutting an oval ring out of a piece of plywood, leaving a ring about 5 inches wide. After sanding and painting it  I glued on double track loops of flextrack.After the holidays were over it could just hang on the wall of the garage till next year. The  cut out center of plywood was used for other projects so the waste was minimal .....DaveB

What about the electrical issues.  2 rail equipment needs to have the 2 rails electrically isolated.  Isn't the Fastrack outer rails connected electrically?  The old, standard 3 rail outside rails are connected electrically, so they would not work in 2 rail applications.

Steve

IMO, the Lionel track is an absolute non starter.  Nothing about their rail has any thing to desire in the way of performance or appearance in the two rail segment of the hobby. 

Also I believe Atlas may have (or had) snap on roadbed.  That hollow plastic roadbed really gets noisy after a while.

How about ScaleTrax with the center rail removed over cork road bed over 1/2" plywood? I have a good selection of ScaleTrax and I am leaning towards a 2R layout which will be started in about 6 weeks... I have a few 2R locos and many 3R ones and I am thinking of increasing 2R by selling off 3R....I am thankful to have these options available to us!

For budget purposes only:

I like Scale Trax track with the center rail removed but not their switches. 

I would  use regular two rail switches and shim elevation to fit. 

Connect them using Lou Cross' ROW fish plate rail joiners with electrical feeds directly to stock rails, throw bar activated feed to frogs on all two rail switches.

It would be pricey, but it would be great if there was such a commercial product out there like the HO products.  I would hope that there would be a larger radius with at least 56" or larger for those running steam.  It will be a while before I can get started on my modular layout and I would think others would love to be able to run their trains on occasion as well.

I have recently looked at cutting precise curves on cabinet grade plywood or aluminum with a ballast profile with additional tapering for superelevation, and installing Atlas track on the top of that.  It's very expensive to say the least and figuring out reliable roadbed fastening methods was interesting to say the least.  Thank goodness for the biscuit joiner! LOL