Applying/Cutting out decals

It is going to be difficult to get exactly around the numberboard with the decal dry. The best thing you could do is figure out approximately where the numberboards will go on the decal (lay it up as best as you can) and score an X on the decal so it can open up. Wet it, and float it into place. With a new, sharp exacto knife POKE around the perimeter of the number board so the decal has more room to break where you want it to. Dont panic if it tears, just try to line the edges back up.  You will want some decal to be left on the numberboard. The goal at this point is not to get it perfect. If you drag the knife you will rip the decal. Once you get it flat-ish, and more importantly straight, let it dry. If it dries and it is not flat on the model around the numberboard, Micro-set (red bottle). Once you microset it, let it dry completely. Once its dry, go in with the knife and cut around the perimeter. If it dries flat with just the blue bottle then you dont need the microset, just cut the perimeter. Once its cut, you'll probably need to reapply the micro-sol (blue bottle) to be able to float the excess decal off of the number boards. Depending on how accurate of a paint match your maroon paint is, you may not need to be all that accurate with it. If the paint match is good, you can hide the edge of the decal pretty decently on a smooth, gloss coated surface.

Regarding the E, you can decal over a decal. Microset the stripes, let it completely dry and then apply the E. Let the E dry and Microset it again. If you feel nervous that the stripes may float when you do this, shoot the nose with a little gloss clearcoat to seal that spot, then put the E on.

Thank you for the suggestion - makes sense to make some cut to allow decal to play as flat as possible that way I canbutt the two sides of the yellow part of decals on the nose

This is harder to do than you realize. Your best bet is to do some accurate measurements and pre-cut the decals to get as close to those number boards as possible. Otherwise those decals will rip and fold over onto themselves. Measuring is the only way to do this properly.  

hope this helps

Thank you Jeff - you have confirmed what I expected. I like your idea of detailed measurements and pre cutting prior to applying

I was concerned about butting the 2 nose pieces exactly straight the center of the diesel - but the decals have extra yellow stripes - if I am a little off I can use them to cover a sliver

thanks again - I have a plan now to tackle those nose pieces - which are the hardest part

You can lightly draw a vertical line with a pencil in the exact center of the nose. This will give you the exact center to align each side. This will also give you an exact place to measure for the cutting line for each number board. Once you’re done and if part of the line is visible above your decal, just use the eraser and lightly remove the line showing. This should significantly help you get this done correctly.

Thank you again - that idea will come in handy

Sorry- but more questions

I haven’t used micro set or micro sol before

1.) if I am “stacking” a decal on another decal - should I apply Microset on bottom decal (after allowing it to thoroughly dry) or just wet the top decal and apply it?

2.) regarding microsol - it appears that it will soften a decal that was applied to an irregular surface in order to allow it to better conform to the surface - does it shrink the decal even a slight bit in the process?

thank you

I've only had to 'stack' decals a couple times through the years, but when I did so...successfully, I might add...I clear-coated the first decal after I was satisfied that it was properly settled and thoroughly dry.  Then, after that first layer's clear coat was also thoroughly dry, I proceeded to apply, settle, dry, and clear-coat the second layer.   

I rationalized that it ensured that the first layer was sealed to resist any subsequent treatments to the second decal.  I'm not sure if this multi-step process was recommended to me, read it in a DIY article, etc., etc..  It was many, many years ago...certainly pre-2K. 

I certainly imagine others have successfully used a different process.  I also imagine the advent of computer-generated decals and laser printing instead of using silk-screened multiple colors as separate decals has made this far less necessary?

Decal application, spray painting, and soldering...three of those hobby techniques that requires a different sort of 'primer/flux/settling solution' be imbibed in preparation thereof....Or so I learned at the School of Hard Knocks.

Steady as ye go.  And good luck!

KD

Thank you for the reply - did you use micro set anywhere in the process or just wet decal/ apply/ let dry then clear coat?

@tsheridan posted:

Thank you for the reply - did you use micro set anywhere in the process or just wet decal/ apply/ let dry then clear coat?

As I recall, the project(s) involved a scribed wood sheet (painted) surface.  I probably used 'Set' (blue-lettered bottle) to first position the decal.  Then, after drying, used 'Sol' (red-lettered bottle) to soften the film and allow it to conform to the surface irregularities. 

OTOH, I may have used (distilled) water to first position, followed by Walthers Solvaset.  I've also used Solvaset even after 'Sol', finding it to be more effective to soften/settle some old, thicker-filmed decals. 

Anyhow, the point is to treat each decal application as if it were the only layer.  Again...my experience, but probably not the only technique of worth.

KD