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Hello all.  I am new to this forum.   I have 3 Rail Scale layout.  I am strict about nothing being semi-scale etc.  Not that don't like some of those items, I have just chosen to stay true to scale.  I have used Atlas track that has been painted after laying.  The layout is run by TMCC. 

 

Alan

75onbridge

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Last edited by D&LRR
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Originally Posted by bigdodgetrain:

just my opinion but limiting oneself to scale only limits you on available products to run.

Sure does; combine that with modeling a favorite RR (i.e. Seaboard Air Line) and you place even more limits on yourself.

 

Overall not a bad thing, keeps me from spending WAY too much money.  Heck, I've got 6 engines with another on the way and don't like to run more the 2 at a time.  With my 11x12 layout there's also not a lot of room for more than 3 dozen cars.

 

I started out buying just anything that had Seaboard stamped on it, but quickly learned that all is not as it appeared (scale-wise).  I've still got the things I bought, but I no longer buy on impulse and rely on my books for correct data.

 

I don't count rivets, but at least the overall size and proportions of a model should be very close.

 

After all, it doesn't take any more effort to make it right then it does to make it wrong.  Even if all the rivets aren't there the size and proportions should be correct.

 

I have 2 boxcars, 1 Atlas and 1 MTH.  BOTH had the same car number!!!  How can a manufacturer do that and expect the modeler not to complain?  Is it that hard to change a digit???

 

Not sore at you BDT, just popping off steam

Originally Posted by bigdodgetrain:

just my opinion but limiting oneself to scale only limits you on available products to run.  

Well THAT is exactly our point with 3RS! All scale equipment with Kadee couplers AND fixed pilots on diesels. I model mid-1950s steam era, so THAT alone limits availability for stuff I want on my layout.

 

I JUST LOVE IT THAT WAY, TOO!!!!!

 

Also to more directly answer the original question; there are a LOT more people out there modeling in 3RS that NEVER even read, nor post on, the OGR Forum. We all saw a great example of this during last month's Chicago O Scale Meet, what with about a quarter of the attendees being 3-Railers, looking for more "scale equipment".

I am newly into 3RS as well. Well sorta... erm, let's see. 3 rails, check, engine with kadee couplers check, scale equipment... mostly check...

 

It's a path little taken and I find it a learning experience! Despite my own doctrines, I like all trains, regardless of Scale and Gauge; particularly live steam.

Originally Posted by D&LRR:

Thanks for the feedback!  I have not bit off Kadee's yet.  I think I will someday.

Someday?? Try it ASAP, since Kadee just came out with a whole new line of O-Scale couplers that work just as well as the "old stand-by" #805, but are more detailed coupler head and no more spring on the outside of the coupler. They are the #740 series. Check out the Kadee website, or the ads in OGR Magazine.

 

By the way, did you happen to read the number two item at the top of this 3RS Forum (What is 3RS?)?

Does it count if I'm still in the accumulation stage?  I have half my engines switched over to Kadees and will slowly be converting the rest, although now I find myself wanting the new Kadees you guys just mentioned.

 

I think I keep buying engines as an excuse not to remove my old layout and start something new.  Seeing some of your layouts gives me a bit of anxiety as I'm looking for that look with little experience to get there.  Time will tell.

Maybe I need a definition of "3RS".  Since I avoided Plasticville unless it was kitbashed, didn't use any green and orange "accessories" bobbing up and down,

ran a lot of O scale kit or scratch built or bashed cars (and a few engines), avoiding rolling stock that looked "toy-like", and fielded mostly O scale kit, scratch, or bashed structures, and was using Scaletrax, I thought I was 3RS.

But I am not using Kadee's, and ain't goin' there.  So how is 3RS different from

"high rail"?  That conversion to Kadees is the difference?

Originally Posted by coloradohirailer:

Maybe I need a definition of "3RS".  Since I avoided Plasticville unless it was kitbashed, didn't use any green and orange "accessories" bobbing up and down,

ran a lot of O scale kit or scratch built or bashed cars (and a few engines), avoiding rolling stock that looked "toy-like", and fielded mostly O scale kit, scratch, or bashed structures, and was using Scaletrax, I thought I was 3RS.

But I am not using Kadee's, and ain't goin' there.  So how is 3RS different from

"high rail"?  That conversion to Kadees is the difference?

Your statement actually says it all.

 

High-rail is all about the scenery, 3RS is about making the trains look as much like the prototype as possible/practical.

 

The 2 things that started this 3RS drive was the use of the BCC (Big Clunky Couplers) and the gap between the pilot and the body of the locomotive.

 

The huge couplers poking out and the swinging pilots attached to the trucks simply don't make the trains appear "prototypical".

 

Over time, other things such as separate detailing (hand grabs, stirrup steps, etc) and the scale of rolling stock and locomotives have all been discussed.

 

Kadees not only look better they also operate better than the BCCs.  When I see posts where people keep their BCCs together using super glue, rubber bands, and wire ties it tells me something is wrong.

 

MTH and Weaver offer items that accept Kadee couplers.  Atlas (as does Weaver) has their own brand of coupler, but Kadees can be installed fairly easily.  Lionel (as far as I know) has not offered any type of Kadee coupler pad to readily attach the couplers to their cars or locos.

I don't consider myself 3RS, but "near 3RS", as I don't really fit either the 3RS or the 3R catagory.  Equipment on my roster are scale size, relatively correct, but have the BCC couplers and standard wheels.  My latest acquisition was the 3rd Rail B&O T-3.

 

I may someday, convert to kaydees, but quite honestly, don't have the time right now.

 

For some odd reason, I've also been bitten by the pre-war/tinplate bug.  The redo of my layout will include a 13'x7' loop for these trains.

 

Jim

I guess I'd consider myself as 3RS also but I'm still in the very basic learning stage! Have so far removed the huge couplers and mounted Kadees on one engine but haven't taken the plunge to cut off the pilots and mount them to the frame. I'm actually thinking about constructing new pilots to make adding additional details much easier (not so much grinding necessary when working with styrene!).

 

Mounting Kadees on the freight equipment has been a piece of cake (I spent quite a few years in HO) and will eventually have everything running with scale wheels on Atlas track. I also intend to have as much prototypical operation as possible in my limited 14 X 16 foot area (shelf-based switching layout). And so as not to sound like a stuffed shirt rivet counter, sometimes I'll be creating my own prototype. It's all about having fun and escaping the real world for awhile!

 

It took me a little while to get used to the size of O scale but now it doesn't seem nearly as big as I once thought, and I hardly notice the 3rd rail.

 

Enough of my ramblings.

 

Joe

Originally Posted by Sasquatch:

JoeW, That is a 3RD Rail model that I added EOB to and removed the front pilot wheels. I found a photo some where from the mid to late 50's that shows the B&O did this to this engine so they could use it as a switcher. BF


That's what I suspected.  Been looking for one but all I've seen is 2 rail for sale.  Plan is for a 0-8-0 with my working Kadee couplers to work the yard. I 3 railed a 2 rail Westside Q4 with working couplers, don't want to go that way again.

 

I scan e-bay daily for B&O stuff.  I have yet run across anything 3RS for sale. Just 2 or 3 rail.

 

 

Anybody got a count of 3RSers here yet?  Don't think we come near 20 yet.  Alot of HighRailers here though.  Gotta start someplace. Nothing wrong with that, i was one and may be one again.  I think a few that started out 3RS just jumped to 2 rail. Threerailphobia!!!!

 

JoeW

 

 

Originally Posted by Sasquatch:

JoeW, That is a 3RD Rail model that I added EOB to and removed the front pilot wheels. I found a photo some where from the mid to late 50's that shows the B&O did this to this engine so they could use it as a switcher. BF

Hey Sasquatch,  Found a couple pictures in one of my books of this engine labeled class L-ia. Plus I noticed I have one in my HO brass collection.  Just have to shorten the pilot and modify the ladders of an E-24 and your correct.


 

class L-ia

L-ia ex E-24

 

By doing a search I found that 3rd Rail also made this switcher along with the E-24.

Would be perfect for my Yard work. 

 

JoeW

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Originally Posted by Sasquatch:

Joe, 
I never noticed the pilot. I will have to check that out in my photos. I will get back to you. BF 


Looked in another boook and found more pictures. There seems to have been a bunch of the by the numbers.  B&O Power book seems to have mislabeled them as class L-ia. A typo done several times. Second book I found more pics and they are labeled class L-1a which I believe is correct.

 

882_5848

882_5847

882_5844

 

I have a Weaver 2-8-0 B&O but besides being a poor runner the closest thing to a B&O engine might be an ex BR&P.  Engine also seems a bit oversize. It's a shelf queen for

now.

 

Check this page out. Sure was allot of them. And with different tenders.

http://www.northeast.railfan.net/bo_steam4.html

 

B&O fan has to check out all 54 pics on this page. 

http://eriksenphoto.smugmug.com/Trains/Standard-gauge/Baltimore-Ohio-Railroad/2510583_F6h5Y#!i=137293543&k=qK6bz&lb=1&s=XL

 

JoeW

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Last edited by JoeW

Joe, notice that the tenders did not have the high sides on the coal bin in the photos you posted. Not that this is a biggy, as in the late 50's (which I model) who knows what B&O put behind there engines to get the job done. 

 

I like the Q-3 with the long Vandy tender. I have a K-Line Q-3 that I'm going to do that to.

 

I don't look forward to shortening the front pilot on my 0-8-0. Thanks for that one. BF  

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