Armature inspection

Aside form a general service, be sure to get the worm drive bearing caps in place in the correct orientation (maybe you did this?) and check that the field lamination rivets are tight tight tight. The field laminations should not have even the slightest wiggle to them in any direction.

@bmoran4 posted:

Aside form a general service, be sure to get the worm drive bearing caps in place in the correct orientation (maybe you did this?) and check that the field lamination rivets are tight tight tight. The field laminations should not have even the slightest wiggle to them in any direction.

To add to this, a couple of tell-tales of loose stacked lamination rivets: ground lug can be loose, it’s riveted to the case. If it’s loose, the rivet has lost its grip. Rub marks, or witness marks, both on the lamination stack, and on the armature segment stacks ( sides of the armature) ……not sure if bmoran4 has found a suitable replacement for this rivet or not, but they’re are repair alternatives,……

Pat

Pat,

I had one manufacturer lined up, but things eventually fell through. With the world situation and holidays among us, it is difficult to get a new manufacturer engaged, but I'll keep at it!

The commutator is shot.  The slots were probably filled with a oil and carbon mixture which conducted power and the heat killed the molded plastic.  Note the hollowed out spots at the ends of the slots. Easy answer is to replace the armature. You can replace just the commutator. Jeff Kane, The Train Tender, sells new ones. Be sure to replace the felt washer under the commutator as it will be soaked with oil and carbon dust.   Unsolder all six armature coil leads and gently move them aside. Mark the locations of the slots on the laminations so you can get the new commutator in the correct orientation. Use a wheel puller to pull the old commutator off. You’re is full of cracks and it will probably break up as it is pulled off.

To put the new commutator on, first put in a new felt washer.  Then press the new commutator on using a tool that presses it near the center.  If it is pushed on the outside edges, it could break.  Measure the length of the shaft protruding through the present commutator and press the new commutator on so you have this same length of shaft sticking out. Resolder on the leads and you should be ready to go.

See Bob Hannon’s  book on post war motors, volume one, for more information.

Thanks to all of you for your feedback. I said it before, and I 'll say it again: the gudiance one receives  from members of this forum is fantastic.