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 In the past I have adapted Kadee's to replace the dummy coupler on steam locos for double heading. I recently purchased some of the newer Kadee type Atlas couplers. Can't remember the part no. . You can purchase just the couplers. They come in a 4 pack.  I'm guessing to upgrade their older couplers. The real advantage to these is the have a longer shank. The Kadee's you are committed by design as to where you can drill the hole. You will still need to do a lot of filing. I believe the newer style Kadee couplers have to thin of a shank to drill the proper hole. It seems a #43 bit is close. A drill press helps keep the hole straight. If you flip the coupler over you will see a line. Center punch this. Use about a 1/8 shim and the coupler should rest flat on your drill press.

 You can see below the difference in length.

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 To help give you a little more wiggle room. You can file a little relief right behind the coupler head. You only need to take a litt off. When done. Cut behind the hole and clean it up with a file and test fit it.

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 On the bench. I'm working on a K-Line Mikado. Matches the height gauge perfect. I have a small roster. The Legacy Lima Berkshires and the NYC Mohawks are pretty much dead on as well. Assume most must be but I'm sure there are a few that are off. Works well with a freight type pilot. On passenger locos. You made need to drill the hole father back. I know my MTH Hudson's are off as far as height. If you were doing a designated doublehead. You could always adjust the height on the lead engines tender.

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The last pic shows how much the coupler can pivot. 

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 Lots of great steamers out there now that are capable of running at the same speed with multiple rd. nos. being offered. Doubleheads  or pushers on the rear are really cool looking. This coupler seems to mate with the standard 3 rail coupler. I have no way of testing. In case you don't want to give up your coil coupler just yet. 

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I've done extensive trial use of the latest design (Kadee clone head, traditional Atlas shank and pocket) and was not satisfied with either their coupling or uncoupling with one another or with Kadee equipped cars.  Their knuckle closure springs are too stiff for smooth low impact operation.  This can be corrected by replacing the AtlasO knuckle springs with Kadee ones (Kadee packages spare springs with their 800 series couplers and the sell them separately).   Polishing the knuckles also helps.  Though not applicable to pilot beam mounts as illustrated above, When using the AtlasO couplers in their  draft gear box I found centering springs were also overly stiff.  For those that wish to operate in a delayed coupling mode over magnetic ramps you'll want to install softer centering springs.

Last edited by Keystoned Ed

IMG_1585I recently have had success with using the new style Kadees. I simply cut the shank off and file the operating coupler head to match the dummy scale coupler, then drill the hole for the screw to go through. Of course there is no centering action but this works very well for double heading or pulling in reverse and looks great. Hope you can see them in the pic. And the 614 has one as well that swings away behind the door on the pilot. That particular one needed substantial filing but it works as well as the rest. 

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Last edited by Ben Snyder

 All my designated double heads or pushers have freight style pilots. If you need a little bit of extra length the Atlas coupler has it with their longer shank. I routinely doublehead a Legacy Berkshire and Mohawk. They handle 0 72 curves fine. But my 0 72 curves have easements entering and exiting a turn. This may help. I know my scale length passenger cars wouldn't navigate a true 0 72 entering my yard. They functioned fine on the mainline with easements. I usually body mount my couplers on the tenders. I have at times made up a bracket so they are truck mounted just to get them up and running quick. This may give you a little more relief as far as swing on curves. Or it may do the opposite and want to push the truck off the rails. By filing a notch in the coupler shank as shown in the photo it allows it to pivot quite a ways. Filing the coupler box may give you some more. The longer the coupler is will probably aid it. You have to be the judge at what point you stop that it just doesn't look good with the extra length even if it functions well.

 In the upcoming OGR video #13. Pretty sure Rich got some shots of this in action. With Legacy matching the speeds it's really cool listening to 2 steamers with the chuffs slightly out of sync. . As well as they traverse the layout going forward. They do it backwards as well.  

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