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Hi everyone,

I have an Atlas 1273-2 EMD GP60 that quit smoking. I've tested the smoke unit itself with external power and everything seems to be working fine. I am unfamiliar with the little circuit board this unit connects to. It's not a "turbo smoke" either from what I can tell. I suspect it's this board because I can measure the correct voltages going into the board from the motherboard of the OEM EOB system, after that, it seems something is not working correctly. GRJ posted the instruction manual on how to install the TAS EOB system, but it does not mention that little board.

So here are my questions:

Does anyone have pinout info for this board? (it has been asked before but I haven't seen an answer)

Screenshot_20181027-151906

Also, if the board is bad and more than likely unavailable. Can I simply bypass that board and use a 20ohm resistor vs. the 10ohm currently in it right now. I will also cut off the thermistor since it won't be necessary. Or can I still use the 10ohm resistor and just simply remove the thermistor. I also know the fan gets ground from this board as well but I don't think that will be hard to replace when I remove the bad board.

So here is what I know:

IMG_20181025_124155

This outer most wire is ground, it goes to the smoke switch, changes color wire and then plugs into the little circuit board in question.

IMG_20181025_124152

This second wire is smoke hot and goes directly to the bad board. Both of these connections go connected on the top 4 pin connector, pin 3 and 4 left to right.

IMG_20181025_124131

This last cable goes to the positive side of the fan motor. And as you can see the pin before is not used as it is a chuff signal pin for use in steam engines.

I would like to add that the negative terminal for the fan motor is connected to the top most pin on the two pin connector on the controller board. The fan does work and responds to TMCC ON and OFF commands correctly.

I have also done a full TMCC feature reset to 8 and that still didn't fixy issue.

I hope I made myself clear enough that someone can point me in the right direction.

As usual, thanks for the help everyone!

Attachments

Images (4)
  • Screenshot_20181027-151906
  • IMG_20181025_124155
  • IMG_20181025_124152
  • IMG_20181025_124131
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I have a couple of those boards in my parts box, send me an email.   The boards I have came out of diesels with TAS, it's the smoke unit controller.  I don't have the wiring diagram for them, which is why I've never done anything with them.

Hey John,

I appreciate the offer.

Before I tossed the board I decided to give it a second look over out of the engine to see if I can see any bad components. I didn't, so I decided to test it again but with the engine and could you believe it, it is smoking again!?! I didn't do anything other than re-heat a few solder joints I felt could have been stronger, I guess I had a loose connection and re-soldering did the trick.

As of now, 2 days, still smokes.

I don't see too much logic with this board other than lowering voltage for the fan to run on but I had no issue with the fan. It definitely does something else that has to do with the thermistor and smoke resistor but how and why it does it is beyond me lol

Well, if this stops working I will email you my friend.

Thanks!

P.s. I still have that LC+ Remote,MB and a few other accessories. If you were to ever need it, it's yours. I always appreciate your input and help, it's the least I could do.

Mike CT posted:

TAS smoke units had a low fluid level cut out. (?? Thermistor??)   The blue thing. 

Yes, mine had one as well and it also tested fine on my bench, as the element would heat up the resistance value would change. I pushed it to about 1/16 from the element before putting everything back together. I understand its function/benefit fir those who my forget to add fluid or shut it down, but I personally think it is overkill.

Also, mine was bent above the heating element and not behind it like yours. Mine seems to me more in the path of the blowing air which might give it a cooler temp. reading.

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