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Gentlemen,

 

I hope this question is "worthy" of this forum.  I am basically a 3-rail person.  However, in my lust to find Atlas O tank cars with ADMX markings I found 3 cars with Atlas O scale couplers and wheel sets.  Naturally, I thought...wow, these look really, really good!

 

So, I took one car out to my "track work" which is made entirely of Atlas O 3-rail nickel silver track and pushed around the track and through some switches.  I found that the car ran smoothly...no bumping and jumping through frogs or any problems at all.

 

This made me think...that I could run, at least, Atlas O scale wheel sets and couplers...all the time!  I would have a much more authentic (right word??) railroad...and these cars would just look so much better.

 

Have I discovered the "root" of 3-Rail Scale operations?  Have I seen the light...or am I missing something.

 

My sharpest curve of any kind is 054.

 

Should the epiphany make me want to convert all my "stuff" to 3-rail scale?

 

What's the "sharpest" curve I should think about using were I to convert to 3-Rail scale locomotives...fixed pilots...that sort of thing?

 

Thanks for any kind and patient responses.

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Been running scale-wheeled equipment on the club layout (Gargraves/Ross/Atlas) for quite a while. The only caveats are that you may (read will probably) have issues backing scale-wheeled cars through curve-replacement (O-72, etc.) turnouts, but they seem to do alright on #5's. O-54 (27" radius) is pushing things a bit, but the shorter scale-wheeled rolling stock will get through it.

 

Everything I've bought so far has been able to handle 36" radius (O-72), including Atlas 89-foot trailer flats. I would have bet money wouldn't make it through an O-72, but we have easements on our curves. I run MTH scale-wheeled diesels and Atlas and Weaver cars. My Blue Goose Hudson also makes it through O-72. They will find every uneven spot in the track work, though.

 

O-72 flat-top with #5 turnouts seems to be the working combination. If you have the space, go with O-84 or larger.

 

Good luck in your new journey.

Matt...thanks for the comments.  I never seem to finish anything...just go off on another tangent...but, perhaps this could help me narrow my "focus."

 

Kind of a dumb question...but, I was looking at Atlas O scale wheel conversion sets.  How does one know when to use 33 or 36 inch wheel sets??

 

Aren't the MTH 2-rail diesels difficult to find?  Have you converted any 3-Rail to 2-Rail with the fixed pilot??

 

When you buy the -2 locomotive from MTH...does that mean it has Kadee style couplers as well as scale wheel sets?  Are the pilots "fixed?"

Generally the 33 inch wheel sets are for freight cars and 36 for passenger cars.

 

Selected MTH engines have come with "high rail" wheel flanges or "scale" wheel flanges for a long time now.  There are many combinations of wheel sets and electronics.  Certainly many less with scale wheel sets.

 

The latest and most flexible are the new Proto 3 engines which can be purchased with scale wheels or high rail wheels.  These engines also can be configured for DCC 2 rail operation or DCS 2 rail or 3 rail operation by just flipping switches.

 

For example my scale wheel MTH PS3 Rio Grande GP 35 engines came with fixed pilots and NO couplers.  3 rail pickup rollers were included in the box but not installed.  The trucks have provisions for the big pumpkin couplers.  But none were provided.  I installed Kadee scale couplers. 

 

These engines run very well and equally well under NMRA DCC control or MTH DCS control. 

 

It's my understanding the some MTH engines with scale wheel sets, (like my GP-35's for sure) come with fixed pilots and other engines with scale wheel sets  come with the swinging pilots.  Others can elaborate on this.

 

Hope this helps

 

 

 

 

I buy the MTH -2 models but I swap out the scale wheels for Hi-Rail wheel sets. I just like the reliability of the larger flanges, but prefer the looks of fixed pilots and Kadee couplers.

 

I also convert to fixed pilots with some of my Lionel engines, and Atlas diesels will be converted eventually. You can convert any the 3 rail models to fixed pilots with a little work, or a lot of work in some cases. The only draw back is you normally have to have at least an 072 curve for fixed pilots and Kadee couplers.

 

This is a Lionel GP30 I converted to fixed pilots with Kadee couplers, but still has Hi-Rail wheels.

2012-03-12_17-43-39_274

 

This is another Lionel engine I just converted to a fixed pilot, with a Kadee coupler on the rear, but still rolls on Hi-Rail wheels.

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Wellsome are more work than others, and a bit of scratch building is usually involved.

 

Take the unit apart and figure out how to attach the pilot to the frame. I drill & tapped this one. Screw holes just barely fit inside the shell on the frontand rear. 

IMG_0156

 

I removed the footboards on this unit to make it a bit more modern.

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IMG_0155

 

A spacer is required to lower the pilot. Styrene cut and sanded to fit profile.

IMG_0215

 

Scratch built a new pilot, and Kadee mounting platform. Always use a Kadee height gauge to get the correct height.

IMG_0218

 

 

IMG_0222

 

This conversion required removing the outer brake shoes so the rear truck would turn with the fixed pilot. This also made it a more modern GP30 with footboards and outer brakeshoes removed.

IMG_0209

 

 

IMG_0210

 

Of course the last step is bending new full length handrails, or ordering 2 rail handrail sets om Atlas or MTH IF you can get them. Usually you're better off bending your own.

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Last edited by Former Member

Larry,

 

The biggest obstacle is making that first cut, after that it's not that hard.  I've fixed all my pilots and added Kadees except the new Lionel with Legacy GP9 I have and a Williams/Samhongsa brass USRA 2-8-2 I recently bought, and 3 MTH passenger cars, all are on the list to do.

 

1st thing...get one of those Kadee height gauges, then maybe some of the new offset shank couplers.  Some of the pieces I've done have required shims of almost 1/4" thick, the offset shank will cut the thickness down a bit.

 

Once you witness 2 cars silently coupling together you'll see what all the excitement is about.  I can back my MTH NW2 switcher up to a piece of rolling stock at 1-2 mph and coupled them up without the rolling stock even move.

Originally Posted by Bob Delbridge:

Larry,

 

The biggest obstacle is making that first cut, after that it's not that hard. 

 

1st thing...get one of those Kadee height gauges, then maybe some of the new offset shank couplers.  

 

Bob is right about that. Once you figure out how to get it apart, the hardest thing is making that 1st cut, and it's usually with the Dremel tool and a cutoff disk. Then after you have it all laying their on the bench in pieces... you get this

 

I personally don't like the offset couplers because of the look. I figure if I have to shim anyway, might as well shim it all and use the center shank couplers because that's what the real couplers look like. That's just my opinion.

 

Another member of this forum, Rich Montague (? spelling) has done some of the best fixed pilot conversions I've seen, including new handrails.

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