What is the proper method used to join Ross switches to Atlas O track and ensure electrical continuity?
Thanks for any kind response.
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What is the proper method used to join Ross switches to Atlas O track and ensure electrical continuity?
Thanks for any kind response.
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@SD60M posted:What is the proper method used to join Atlas O switches to Atlas O track and ensure electrical continuity?
Thanks for any kind response.
Solder each and every joint. That's what I did.
Are you using Atlas switches or Ross?
Sorry about that…corrected original post…Ross switches to Atlas O track…
@SD60M posted:Sorry about that…corrected original post…Ross switches to Atlas O track…
Still,,,,,,,,,,,solder every single joint.
Honestly, unless you are replacing a few selected switches on a large existing layout, why not just use all Ross / Gargraves track?
Honestly...I wish I had gone with Gargraves track and switches years ago when I first put my mess together. I did it just as the Atlas track line came out...it looked might fine...and I thought this was the time to get into something new and great. I think the track is great...but, the switches have been another issue...only because mine are all first generation...and you know what that means when if comes to broken connections. If they weren't broken when I put them in...they have become that way over time. I really wanted a "pure" track system...Atlas fit the bill...so, I went for it. Been paying for it...literally and figuratively...ever since.
All that to say, I am trying to "drop in" some Ross replacements.
Iv found that the Atlas joiners will slip under Ross track. May have to pry Ross track up a bit but so far they stay conneced.
Before you go to all the expense of switching to Ross, see what the pros say about altering your Atlas switches for better performance. Ross switches don't just "drop in" place of Atlas.
Thank you, gentlemen!
For the record, I realize Ross does not just drop in...that would be too simple. But, you are correct...way too much money to be invested should I try to replace the switches.
I will, probably, end up jumpering the offending switches...no matter how tedious and difficult it may seem.
Thanks, again!
Atlas sells Ross to Atlas, and Gargraves to Atlas, conversion pins. A regular Atlas track joiner can be used. The lower track profile, on Gargraves, has to be removed, with a dremel tool. I had purchased Atlas conversion pins, and found the regular Atlas track connectors, worked best. IMO, Mike CT.
@SD60M posted:“Honestly...I wish I had gone with Gargraves track and switches years ago when I first put my mess together.”
Interesting comment. Anyone with an all Gargraves layout care to expound?
@Hot Water posted:Solder each and every joint. That's what I did.
Ditto, I kept the Atlas track on their truss bridges and connected to Ross track. Did use Atlas rail joiners also, just removed the staples holding the rail down. Fit like a glove.
What is your objective for your layout? The ties are the main visual difference. Stick with your Atlas if you like the look and use one of the connection method suggested here. Atlas looks SO much more realistic than GG overall that the effort will be worth it.
@Mark V. Spadaro posted:Interesting comment. Anyone with an all Gargraves layout care to expound?
I've used tubular, Fastrack, and Atlas track. While I do like Atlas track, my current layout was built with all Ross switches and Gargraves and Ross track. They work together seamlessly, and I've been very happy with my choice. The bonus is they also match in appearance.
I agree that Atlas track looks a bit more realistic as to tie sizes, and I love the solid rails. However, my experience with Atlas switches convinced me that Atlas switches were not going to have a place on my layout. Also, Ross has a richer assortment of switches that tipped the balance.
I used all Atlas track and switches, just liked the look. I bought all of it on the auction site with the understanding I would need to re-wire the turnouts. I used tortoise motors. Everything works great and I got some great deals. Of course, it took a while to accumulate all the parts, but I planned ahead of my construction start.
@SD60M in that case, why not replace your problematic "first generation" Atlas switches with the latest versions, like-for-like? No issues connecting to the existing Atlas track, compatible appearance, and an exact match with the geometry of the existing switches.
I have high hopes for the current production Atlas switches. I'm considering several layout designs that require O36 curve-replacement switches, which is the only size that Ross doesn't make. I refuse to drop back to O31 for a few very sound reasons. But I can't seem to prevail on Steve to offer his excellent switches in O36 .
My last Layout was all Atlas Ttack & Atlas Switches (54 of them all controlled by ASC’s) !!! In 8 years I only lost one Switch, only to be replaced with a new operating unit ! Now that’s what I call Service!!!
I've used Atlas track since it came out and IMO, it's great track. I started off with Atlas switches and over time have changed (mostly) to Ross. I use the regular Atlas joiners to connect with the Ross switches. I found the Atlas to Ross connectors to be difficult and not worth the effort.
Gerry
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