Atlas O track and signal systems

Tom,

You might try searching for Custom Signals - Terry. Used to be in Glens Falls, but now in Poughkeepsie. He formerly made some types of signals that Atlas didn't, but that work in the same system.  The website is still up, but I can't swear to how current it is. There's an email and address on the website. The order form still lists the Atlas 6930 single target mast as available.

If I recall correctly, he was looking for a buyer for the business, but had no luck there - so has been selling what he had left.

Also, the Atlas website shows track from O-54 through O-90 as available to order (in stock). But not the No. 5 turnouts. If memory serves, Atlas received a shipment of track earlier this year. I just bought a bunch of 2-rail track through the dealer I patronize (online).

David

Terry did sell is line to Atlas but not his inventory.  He had been sell the signals on ebay these last few years, but I have not seen any lately.  The Atlas track is out there if you search for it.  Try a Google search and the hobby shops listed on Atlas' website.

Jan

Thanks for the correction/additional info, Jan.

David

There are secondary stores that sell Atlas O track. Just because your primary store is out doesnt mean its all sold out. And yes Atlas O produces their track in batches just like the other mfgs/importers. And yes like the other mfgs /importers Atlss Onis feeling the logistical issues of items mfg overseas. At this time when spring comes, track quantity is a bit low but come fall, another new batch is delivered. You can still find N.O.S. & used if one is not bent on having "new"

Thank you all for the feedback and info. I have been a train fan for years and have had temporary floor layouts using fast track for years. Now, that I am working on a space to build a permanent layout, I don't want to go with fast track. Thankfully I don't have a ton invested in fast track so I decided I wanted to go with track that looked more prototypical.  I may not be "new" to model trains, but I am definitely new to layout planning and I am really feeling overwhelmed. I am trying to take it in small steps and really trying to enjoy the process. So I am sure I will ask all sorts of "dumb" or repetitive questions as I navigate this new adventure. I look forward to learning from you all and I will do my best to not ask a ton of questions.

Respectively,

Tom

Have you considered Ross track and switches?  For flex track, Gargraves flex interfaces seamlessly with Ross track and switches as well.  FWIW, I find the Ross switches to be far superior to the Atlas switches, and Ross has a practically infinite variety of switch styles.

I've used Atlas track, it's what we used on our club modules.  I like the track, but I don't like the switches.

Hey John,

I have not looked into Gargraves or Ross track or switches, mostly because I have been advised they are more expensive... albeit excellent track and switches. I was advised that Atlas was a good middle of the road from a budget and cost standpoint.  Again, I am still learning and and certainly open to all input and advice so that I don't waste money on a track system I won't be happy with down the road.

Actually, I'd take another look.  Atlas track is WAY more expensive than any other track type, Gargraves track is actually pretty cheap as track goes.  I bought the cases of Gargraves flex track for my build for $400/ea, that's fifty-one pieces of 37" track, over 150 feet.  Price 150 feet of Atlas track and you'll find it's a lot more than that.  Atlas switches and Ross switches are very similar in price, and Ross beats the pants off Atlas as far as quality.  Did I mention that both Gargraves and Ross are made in the USA?

John, that's awesome that there are still track made here in the US. That's a rarity these days. I may have to take a look. I have a loop of Atlas O 90 and a case of O72 curves that I got real cheap last summer on Ebay. I also have a couple of straights as well. I have had these for a few years now, long before I knew I would ever get the opportunity to have a dedicated space for trains. I guess I have already made some mistakes.... I mean buying track before I knew what pieces I actually needed. Again, I don't have a ton invested... I just picked up stuff as I came across it. I always figured that I would just be able to use it... if that makes any sense. Nobody ever told me that I should come up with a plan before buying track. Another problem that I probably could have avoided if I had local model train guys to talk to, or posted on here earlier. You mention flex track.... I have heard of it, but have no idea what it is used for or how to use it.....

Tom

Godale03, I'm not sure where you are getting your advice, BUT---- Ross makes both better quality switches (the very best in the industry, IMO) than Atlas and they are less expensive. For example take your basic 072 (one of the most popular) switch: Atlas retail $129.95, Ross retail $114.95. Now if your planning 6 or more switches some serious money becomes involved! Track: comparing suggested retail again, Gargraves is over 50% less than Atlas for a 3'+ section of flex straight.  Although in the greater scheme of things the cost of switches is one of the most significant (and important for trouble free operation) compared to track in a layout building.

FYI as an aside, I just finished selling off a bunch of Atlas track & switches in liquidating a layout a layout for the deceased friend of a friend. I'm not sure the hours I spent repairing this stuff to get into saleable condition was worth my time. But no good deed goes unpunished. IMO the switches are junk. Sorry, Atlas but that's my opinion. Ross switches are the way to go, and if you should use Atlas track be advised it's a single use product; don't plan on taking it up and relaying it.         

I would take exception to Atlas turnouts sucking.  My experience has been excellent.  What I do not like are the coil fired momentary switch machines (any manufacturer).  I opted for stall machines (Tortoise).  My dollar cost average for 'new' Atlas turnouts (all, O72 & #5) was 85.00 per turnout... that 'includes' shipping and tax.  Add about 18.00 per Tortoise & accu-lite connectors 'including' tax and shipping and you wind up @ 103.00 per.   I did search extensively, bought in batches of four or more (25 turnouts)... and, made many, many offers.  Ditto, on the multiple cases of 40" rigid and flex.  It did take about six (6) months to purchase all my Atlas track and turnouts.  I am probably going to try the #7.5s and will be on the hunt for four (4) of those fairly soon.

How long have your Atlas switches been in use Dennis?   Give them time, they'll show their true colors.

Thank you for all of the input guys.... I don't have anyone to talk to, so my advise has been gotten from the hours of Youtube videos and time reading forums. I have found that when it comes to track, it is like asking someone if they life Ford, Chevy or Dodge..... you will never get a consensus. I know I have made some mistakes and I have a whole case of O72 atlas curves and a loop of O90. I also have probably 20 10" straights that I have used over the years for my floor layouts... not a ton invested but I always figured I could use it in the future. If that is not the case.... I should probably find out now before I purchase anymore track or switches. I didn't mean to start any arguments between members.... so I apologize if I did.

Tom

No arguments Tom, just different opinions.  Wouldn't it be a boring world if everyone had the same opinion?

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

How long have your Atlas switches been in use Dennis?   Give them time, they'll show their true colors.

We're at 18 months John... Hopefully, they will be "shoveling dirt in may face" before they fail ...

So, I guess I will complete my entry down the rabbit hole and ask the question..... Should I ditch what Atlas track I have, and plan the layout with something else? Thanks

Tom

In my experience, Atlas track is undoubtedly the best looking out there.  The switches themselves are good but the switch machines are unreliable.  I used Atlas track on my last layout and had to replace the switch machines with DZ1000s as several Of the Atlas switch machines failed.  This time around I am going back to Ross/Gargraves.  One nice thing about the Ross switches is that they come with the long ties at the switch points so I will be installing the lighted switch stands, which I had on a layout a number of years ago.

Eric Siegel (ERICS TRAINS) has an impressive layout made up of almost entirely Atlas Track (AFAIK).

Not sure why he chose it, but take a look.

John

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

How long have your Atlas switches been in use Dennis?   Give them time, they'll show their true colors.

I agree with John i had switch machine issues and the small rail tend to eventually come loose and difficult to fix without replacing the switch.

We have a number of Atlas switches on club modules, and quite a few are glued into a fixed position now as they've croaked.  The switch rail is loose on several of them, and there's no easy fix.  The nice thing about Ross switches is Steve offers a lifetime warranty, send it back and they make it work.

@Godale03 posted:

So, I guess I will complete my entry down the rabbit hole and ask the question..... Should I ditch what Atlas track I have, and plan the layout with something else? Thanks

There are a lot of folks here running Atlas, Fastrack, O-27, O31, Super-O, Gargraves, Ross and many other types of track from many manufacturers produced over many eras.    I've used a lot of them over the years and had success with all.   I've nothing disparaging to say about any of it... It's all good stuff to me!

Obviously, I wouldn't let the thread get me down... however, if you'd like ...shoot me an email with your inventory.

@Godale03 posted:

So, I guess I will complete my entry down the rabbit hole and ask the question..... Should I ditch what Atlas track I have, and plan the layout with something else? Thanks

Tom

My layout is all Atlas track and switches. I have 37 of their switches with most of them about 10 years old. I think it's the best looking 3 rail track and the quietest. However, if you are new to building a layout or are unfamiliar with the different track manufacturers, I would recommend Ross. It's far more available than Atlas and its reliable out of the box. You can use Atlas track with Ross switches by using Atlas rail joiners.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

How long have your Atlas switches been in use Dennis?   Give them time, they'll show their true colors.

Again, I've had my switches in use for about an average of 10 years. I've had one failure  - lost power to the center rail of an O72 switch. Repaired it by drilling and tapping a screw through the rail flange and running a wire to the screw. You'd never see the repair if you didn't know what to look for.

However to get that reliability, I had to:

-make sure all the underside jumper wires were screwed down tight. Glued the screws with epoxy so there would be no chance of them loosening over time.

-made sure that there was track power feeding each leg of the switch.

-installed the switches on Rossbed so they would lay absolutely flat. Any kind of twisting will cause the switch mechanism to bind.

-used a capacitive discharge power supply for the switch machines. I never could get them to operate reliably on just 14 VAC accessory power and the capacitive  discharge power supply prevents accidentally burning out the switch machine.

So the Atlas switches work great on my layout but they were a lot of extra work to install.

Ken

@kanawha posted:

You can use Atlas track with Ross switches by using Atlas rail joiners.

You can, but the size and spacing of the ties with Atlas vs Ross/Gargraves is quite different.  A much closer match is using Gargraves track with Ross switches.   Ross upper left, Gargraves upper right, Atlas on the bottom.

As you can see, the Ross/Gargraves combination is a much better look than mixing Atlas and either Gargraves and Ross.  I will agree that for the true prototype look, the Atlas ties are a closer match, but that's only if you stick to all Atlas track and switches.  When you mix them, you throw aesthetics out the window as far as the ties are concerned.

@Dennis-LaRock posted:

There are a lot of folks here running Atlas, Fastrack, O-27, O31, Super-O, Gargraves, Ross and many other types of track from many manufacturers produced over many eras.    I've used a lot of them over the years and had success with all.   I've nothing disparaging to say about any of it... It's all good stuff to me!

Obviously, I wouldn't let the thread get me down... however, if you'd like ...shoot me an email with your inventory.

I am not sure if I'm down... but I believe I am more confused than ever. I thought I had it all figured out, but now I am even more confused than ever. It sounds like I should go with at least Ross switches... but I have at least some Atlas track that I am now really unsure if I should use it or start over. I have spent so much time researching Atlas that I am now back at the start... at least in my mind anyway. I know I have heard lots of folks running Atlas track, and Ross switches... but since John showed me the pictures... Im not sure that will look right? If only I had started this conversation on here a few years ago, I would not have purchased the Atlas track.... or any track for that matter without consulting here first.

Two comments:

1.  Most types of track can be made to connect with a differing type of track.  As a suggestion, you could use one type for your mainline running (Ross??) and other types (Atlas?? or what have you) for yards and sidetracks.

2.  The differences in tie sizes mostly disappear when ballast is added to the track.  Sure, the "rivet counters" may notice, but most others looking at your layout either will not notice or will not care.  DO NOT suffer from paralysis through analysis; enjoy the hobby!

Chuck

Tom, I really think you need to get out and visit a few layouts before you make a decision to buy more track or switches.  You can't go wrong with either Atlas or Ross, but each comes with a trade-off, and it would be good to be sure of your choice.  Your profile doesn't indicate where you live, but getting to visit a few home and club layouts, taking a really good, close, look at their track and talking with them about what they like and don't like about it, would probably help you quite a bit.  If there are any train shows within a day's drive of where you live, maybe you ought to attend one.  Usually there are some modelers in the area of any good sized train show, who invite visitors in connection with the show.  There's usually a list of them available at the show.

Personally, I chose Atlas track and switches and Brennan's Better Ballast for one reason -- realism -- and got the result I wanted.  The track was all painted prior to being laid.  The switches are all operated by Tortoise switch machines under the table, and they have been satisfactory.  They have needed a little bit of maintenance in the 14 years they have been in place, but mainly just periodic adjustment, or ballast getting caught in the points.  Probably Ross switches would have needed no maintenance at all, ever.

Sometimes I wonder how it might have been different if I had used Ross track and switches.  Probably would have always looked at those bigger ties and wondered what it would have been like with Atlas.   But I imagine that I would never have had to maintain anything in the track.

I have a lot of Atlas/Custom Signals block signals, and they are excellent and work like prototype signals.  They added a couple of thousand dollars to the cost of the layout.  My trains would have run just fine without block signals, but I desire realism and was willing to pay extra for it.  If all you want signals for is just to show which way a switch is lined, the Z-Stuff signals can do that and they look good.  The Z-Stuff semaphore operates slowly and can be a switch indicator, or daisy chained to other signals for realistic operation, or operated on a timer to go red when a train passes them and then return to yellow, and then green, using a built-in timer.

I also bought a bunch of Weaver line side poles, as I wanted to have a 4-crossarm pole line, but that was where I drew the line at realism vs practicality.  I would probably have never been able to climb onto the top of my layout without damaging the pole line, and did not install the poles.

Whatever you do, don't use Atlas switches !!!

Go with Ross from the start.  I had 25 Atlas switches on my layout and replaced them all. 

Atlas switches are NOT worth the trouble.  However, the Atlas track mounts to the Ross switches easily and the products work well together.

The G&O garden railroad uses Atlas track and switches exclusively.  We used the Atlas track because it is rugged and will stand up to the weather.  Some of our track has been outdoors for 10 plus years.  You can step on it without it breaking.  The solid rail makes it very sturdy.  

The Atlas switches on the G&O are fine.  We hand throw all the switches.  The Atlas switch machines were not made to be outdoors nor is any other brand to the best of my knowledge.    

I use Atlas track on my home layout.  I think it looks more like the prototype than the other brands.  I believe that Atlas track is the way to go if realism is important to you.  

I have a mixture of Atlas and Ross switches on the layout.  I used Ross where I needed curved switches.  Atlas makes only one curved switch and its inside curve (O-54) is too tight for my layout.  Atlas track and Ross switches mate well together.  

I used DZ-2500 machines on my home layout just because they are small and were easier to install in tight places than any other available switch machine.  I have had to replace a couple during the last 10 years out of 30 switch machines.  

I agree that you should attend a train show and visit other modeler's layouts if possible before deciding on a track system.   You can always sell your Atlas track if you decide on another brand.

There are many choices out there.  All of them have plusses and minuses.  Good luck!  

Here is a link to the G&O Story on this forum.  You can see how the G&O uses Atlas track.  NH Joe

https://ogrforum.com/.../the-gandamp-o-story

I'm all for realism, but since there's a 3rd rail running down the middle of my track, I figure the ties on Ross/Gargraves are close enough for me!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'm all for realism, but since there's a 3rd rail running down the middle of my track, I figure the ties on Ross/Gargraves are close enough for me!

I definitely have choice to make…. Gosh sometimes I wish the decision was easy.

There really is no "wrong" decision, so just make the decision that's right for you.

@Number 90 posted:

Tom, I really think you need to get out and visit a few layouts before you make a decision to buy more track or switches.  You can't go wrong with either Atlas or Ross, but each comes with a trade-off, and it would be good to be sure of your choice.  Your profile doesn't indicate where you live, but getting to visit a few home and club layouts, taking a really good, close, look at their track and talking with them about what they like and don't like about it, would probably help you quite a bit.  If there are any train shows within a day's drive of where you live, maybe you ought to attend one.  Usually there are some modelers in the area of any good sized train show, who invite visitors in connection with the show.  There's usually a list of them available at the show.

Personally, I chose Atlas track and switches and Brennan's Better Ballast for one reason -- realism -- and got the result I wanted.  The track was all painted prior to being laid.  The switches are all operated by Tortoise switch machines under the table, and they have been satisfactory.  They have needed a little bit of maintenance in the 14 years they have been in place, but mainly just periodic adjustment, or ballast getting caught in the points.  Probably Ross switches would have needed no maintenance at all, ever.

Sometimes I wonder how it might have been different if I had used Ross track and switches.  Probably would have always looked at those bigger ties and wondered what it would have been like with Atlas.   But I imagine that I would never have had to maintain anything in the track.

I have a lot of Atlas/Custom Signals block signals, and they are excellent and work like prototype signals.  They added a couple of thousand dollars to the cost of the layout.  My trains would have run just fine without block signals, but I desire realism and was willing to pay extra for it.  If all you want signals for is just to show which way a switch is lined, the Z-Stuff signals can do that and they look good.  The Z-Stuff semaphore operates slowly and can be a switch indicator, or daisy chained to other signals for realistic operation, or operated on a timer to go red when a train passes them and then return to yellow, and then green, using a built-in timer.

I also bought a bunch of Weaver line side poles, as I wanted to have a 4-crossarm pole line, but that was where I drew the line at realism vs practicality.  I would probably have never been able to climb onto the top of my layout without damaging the pole line, and did not install the poles.

Thanks for all the great input guys! I live in Southern MD so I’m a long way from York and as far as I know there are no clubs near me. My local shop Sidetrack hobbies is helpful in answering my questions but over the years has downsized and doesn’t have a big layout to look at. Don’t get me wrong it’s a wonderful shop, but I could really use a few layouts to see and ask questions about. Realism is important to me as is reliability. The realism is what drew me to Atlas track to begin with. However it sounds like available track can be hard to find at times. It sounds like at the very least I should go with Ross switches. I was going to use #5 atlas switches…. Now I need to figure out which Ross switch is most like the #5’s. There seems to be a few different Ross lines too so I will need to figure out which is which.

Aside from L(.)(.)ks... I wanted solid rail that wouldn't rust.  I have a 19' tunnel that runs through the attic eave... gets pretty humid in there.  I think Hennings has (or had) some Atlas running outside for quite a period of time.

Mr Muffins Trains is a massive layout - all Atlas. It runs non-stop on the weekends. Atlas switches. After seeing it several times and growing intolerant of the noise associated with Fastrack, I converted my entire layout (15x30) to Atlas. Love it. The only problems I’ve had with Atlas switches were with old ones (freebies to me). Don’t buy used Atlas switches if they are more than a couple years old. Otherwise, they’re great.  YMMV.

@Dennis-LaRock posted:

I think Hennings has (or had) some Atlas running outside for quite a period of time.

Still there, but it needs some work.  It was running over Christmas, but I think track maintenance has suffered.

JDStucks on Youtube also uses Atlas O track on his massive layout. He doesn't use their signals, though. Check out Jason's layout. It's amazing.

@Dylan the Train Man posted:

JDStucks on Youtube also uses Atlas O track on his massive layout. He doesn't use their signals, though. Check out Jason's layout. It's amazing.

Definitely love watching his videos! He has a beautiful layout in the making. However, like most big guys on YouTube…. I can’t ever seem to be able to get the questions I ask answered and there is definitely no line of communication unfortunately. Eric from ericstrains is someone I would love to have a conversation with…. But again I’m sure he is way to busy to deal with a newbie like myself.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'm all for realism, but since there's a 3rd rail running down the middle of my track, I figure the ties on Ross/Gargraves are close enough for me!

The only reason that I use 3-rail track is that none of the large scale 2-rail engines and passenger cars that I prefer to run can negotiate O-72 curves.  I would switch to 2-rail if the 2-rail manufacturers made equipment similar to the Lionel/MTH GS-4s, Big Boys, scale length passenger cars, and other models that could negotiate a minimum of O-72.  

I think that many other O gauge modelers would switch also.  This is the reason that 3-rail scale has become very popular.  Basically, many of us have to reluctantly accept 3-rail track to enable us to run large  equipment in the space that we have available.  Every layout builder has to make a choice as to realism, track availability, cost, function, etc.  There are always some compromises.  NH Joe

@Godale03 posted:

I am not sure if I'm down... but I believe I am more confused than ever. I thought I had it all figured out, but now I am even more confused than ever. It sounds like I should go with at least Ross switches... but I have at least some Atlas track that I am now really unsure if I should use it or start over. I have spent so much time researching Atlas that I am now back at the start... at least in my mind anyway. I know I have heard lots of folks running Atlas track, and Ross switches... but since John showed me the pictures... Im not sure that will look right? If only I had started this conversation on here a few years ago, I would not have purchased the Atlas track.... or any track for that matter without consulting here first.

If you have track in a tunnel you can use your Atlas track on those areas as it's covered and no one will see the difference of another track system. 

FWIW, I use Atlas track and switches as I had a large inventory from a prior layout and purchased 90% of the rest at huge discounts at train shows.   But then I switch manually because my layout is around the walls so they're all in reach.  They do have issues with switch machines going bad far sooner than Ross.  My wallet didn't support paying for Ross brand new when I had so much Atlas to start with. 

Yes, there are folks who have had no issues with Atlas switches but Ross has far less across the entire population of hobbyists.

-Greg