Atlas Switch Question

IS this a new switch right out of the box or a used switch? IF new, the instructions should hint as to why its there.

Atlas makes an optional non-derail circuit board, #6924, that are out-of-stock everywhere. I suspect the insulated inner rail is used to trigger this application. Here are the instructions for wiring.

 http://download.atlasrr.com/pd...DERAIL%20INSTALL.pdf

If you want this functionality, you may need to make your own relay. There are a few threads on making anti-derail circuits. 

George

I am sure this topic has been beaten to death ad-nauseaum, but why can't Atlas create a switch motor that operated like Lionel's O-22, with electro-mechanical sliding contacts built in, and be done with it?  Seems to want more complexity than needed (plus you can't find the boards).  Those old O-22 are still working today without fancy electronics (just clean/adjust contacts). 

The only purpose of the plastic insulating joiners is to create an insulated rail. The power that controls the operation of Atlas switches is completely separate from track power, so the presence of an insulating joiner will not affect the operation of the switch.

Save time, frustration and money.  Buy Ross switches and all you current and future problems are solved. 

George S posted:

Atlas makes an optional non-derail circuit board, #6924, that are out-of-stock everywhere. I suspect the insulated inner rail is used to trigger this application. Here are the instructions for wiring.

 http://download.atlasrr.com/pd...DERAIL%20INSTALL.pdf

If you want this functionality, you may need to make your own relay. There are a few threads on making anti-derail circuits. 

George

Work is progressing on a new version.

Lou N

NYC 428 posted:

Save time, frustration and money.  Buy Ross switches and all you current and future problems are solved. 

I don’t see how that is helpful. His friend already has an Atlas switch. I have had both and they both work just fine. Atlas is a great switch with solid rails. The switch machines are light weight, but work fine once installed. DZ switch machines work with Atlas as well as Ross.

George

johnf posted:

The only purpose of the plastic insulating joiners is to create an insulated rail. The power that controls the operation of Atlas switches is completely separate from track power, so the presence of an insulating joiner will not affect the operation of the switch.

I think he is saying that the insulator is built into the switch not the separate joiner. It will work fine either way.

George

NYC 428 posted:

Save time, frustration and money.  Buy Ross switches and all you current and future problems are solved. 

Except trying to squeeze a little more action into a tight space.  I've been begging Steve at Ross to make his excellent switches in O36.  So far no joy.  Thus my prescription is Atlas for O36, Ross for O42 & up.

That being said... there have been multiple generations of Atlas switches.  The first generation had some issues, as did their early track joiners.  I'm not an electrical engineer.  I hope it's not necessary, because I'm not interested in designing a relay circuit to get the basic non-derailing functionality we already had 70 years ago.

There's no excuse for that circuit board remaining out of stock for so long.  It's well-known that Atlas has had supply chain problems with its track and locomotives too.  After the fellow who managed their O scale product line passed away, the company treats it like an afterthought (which it might be, in the context of their overall profit structure.)  But if Ross made O36 switches, I wouldn't have even looked at this thread.

Automatic non-derail uses trigger sections of the the track close to the frog.  Keep in mind Atlas spring loaded switch rails were to move if the switch was entered the wrong way.  Worked OK most of the time, but had problems.   You have to establish the trigger section with some type of insulation.  Another point to consider is that the (two) insulated rail sections can not touch at the frog. 

Atlas Switch frog area.

Enhancing the trigger section. 

The two small rail sections can not touch the V-shaped frog. 

Trigger wires attached to the short rail sections. 

An axle wheel set completes the circuit to the other outside rail, when an engine enters the switch, moving the switch to the correct orientation.  

A link to Atlas non-derail wiring.

Edit/Add 1:   I've spent a lot of time adding non-derail to Ross/Gargraves switches also.  Note that Ross switches can be purchased, additional cost, with the complete non-derail wiring installed. 

Note 2:   Some have suggested using. DZ 1000 Switch motors with Atlas switches.   These switch motors have a built in disconnect, once the switch is thrown, inhibiting switch motor burn out, an Atlas, stuck switch, problem.  

George S posted:

NYC 428 posted:

Save time, frustration and money.  Buy Ross switches and all you current and future problems are solved. 

I don’t see how that is helpful. His friend already has an Atlas switch. I have had both and they both work just fine. Atlas is a great switch with solid rails. The switch machines are light weight, but work fine once installed. DZ switch machines work with Atlas as well as Ross.

George

Agreed.  I have a number of #7s and a few #5s, and have had no issue whatsoever.  I even got mine used and inexpensive in 2015 when my railroading capital budget was puny.  It is an excellent option and easy to interface with AIUs or other control circuitry.

Could you post a photo?  I've just put down a lot of new Atlas turnouts and none of them had any insulated joiners.  If it was for electrical non-derail with the Atlas board, then they are used turnouts.