Atlas vs Ross track

I'll give it a shot.  Atlas is very nice track.  Several of my friends have used it to build larger layouts.  It's solid.  Atlas switches are also very nice, but the switch machines are simplistic (no ability to trigger signals electrically) and seem to have a high mortality rate.  I am helping a friend plan a large layout.  He will be using Atlas track, Atlas switches, and Z-Stuff DZ-2500 switch machines.  The Z-Stuff switch machines will also operate signals; the Atlas switch machine doesn't do that very easily.  Z-Stuff switch machines also have a failure rate, but it is much lower than Atlas and Z-Stuff stands by their products.

Advantages:

• Solid, t-shaped rail.  Good tracking capabilities, doesn't warp.
• Very realistic appearance; tie spacing and heights are prototypical.

Disadvantages:

• Not that easy to cut if you need an odd size although plenty of smaller sizes exist.
• Feeders are attached with jumpers - I think they are a bit flimsy

I use GarGraves, Ross, and Curtis track on my own layout.  Switches are a mixture of Ross and Curtis.  I very much like both the Ross and Curtis (out of existence for 15+ years now) switches.  Switch machines are Z-Stuff DZ-2500s.

Advantages:

• Relatively inexpensive compared to Atlas (although GarGraves just raised their prices)
• Easy to cut to exact lengths
• Easy to bend (use a water heater) to a custom width

Disadvantages:

• Wooden ties tend to splinter if your hole-drilling technique is poor
• Track is made of bent sheets of metal;  warping is possible
• Cutting track is not always efficient (chop-saws are good)

Others may have more thoughts on the topic.  I won't recommend one over the other;  that is up to you after you weigh the merits of each.  Cost (including switches) could be a factor as well.

Best,

George

Did you have a post earlier that was deleted?

Yes.I believe it was in wrong section

I used the Ross Roadbed on my last layout with Ross sectional curves and straights as well as Ross switches and Gargraves uncoupling tracks.  The roadbed provided very realistic angled sides.  It also provides for countersinking half of the tie into the roadbed, providing a very realistic look especially after using Brennan's Better Ballast with it.  I plan to use the roadbed again when I build my next layout in 2021 or 2022 after completing two remodeling projects.

Pat: Real cool photos.  Do you happen to have any videos of your layout?  You can't go wrong when you model the Erie-Lackawanna and run the trains on Ross Custom Switches track products!  Not to forget, Ross is also a charter advertising member of the OGR forum as well!

Thanks,

Joe

Ah, forgot to discuss roadbed.  I like 3/8" Vinylbed for the mainline, covered with Brennan's Better Ballast.  Below is a shot of the C&P River Route as it passes under the Panhandle bridge over the Ohio River.

George

Both are great choices, depending on how much one wants to invest in the most important part of your layout, the Track. If your trackwork is really good, your trains will run flawlessly, which makes for less derailments and allows those pricy locomotives and cars to run smoothly and realistically around Your imaginary world. I chose atlas O solid rail Century 21 trackage for its looks and durability and because of all the different sizes of pieces offered. All sizes of straights, same with pre-curves, and I used 072 and up only, and these pieces snap together so tightly. Now, in the beginning years, 1999-2003 there switches had a few issues, today they are fine. If you drop a heavy steamer or car on the track, it won’t dent.

Now we can discuss Ross Custom track offerings, a great track, it also has a T rail style, however it is hollow rail, and a heavy steamer or diesel dropped on the track can dent the track. Now this doesn’t happen often, hardly ever, but that’s a worse case scenario. Ross has wooden ties, hand applied spikes, great pre-curve pieces in all kinds of radius’s and diameters, and they connect tightly for great powering of the track, excellently made trackage. Their switches are fantastic, which is why I changed to those many years ago with the DZ1000 motors. You can mate the two tracks together as they are similar in height. I am going to investigate the DZ2500 switch motor soon, it sounds great.

Now, you need to remember that curve radius/diameter determines the size of locomotives and rolling stock that you can operate on your layout, 036 to 054 can handle smaller Steamers, diesels, however 072 and larger allow running the longer articulated steamers big diesels, so there’s lots of thinking to do before you begin buying track and motive power. Then, you must consider whether you will want a remote control system. We are all Legacy.

So get brochures on both Ross and Atlas 0 and read all about the advantages of each, it’s really a Win Win, both are great, both will last a Lifetime.

Happy Railroading Everyone

Our whole layout was Atlas solid nickel silver track & turnouts, on Hobby Innovations vinyl roadbed, which was just about as quiet as 3-Rail can be. I preferred the appearance of the Atlas "T section" rail, and once the turnouts were modified (glued styrene strips on top of all the guard rails), we could also operate 2-Rail SCALE wheeled freight cars (everything was up-graded to Kadee couplers).

The only down side to Atlas solid nickel silver track is their flex track! We had to solder 4, 5 or 6 flex sections (30" long), and then 4 or 5 guys would bend/force the long thing into place. Definitely a REAL pain in the you-know-what.

Once all the track & turnouts were weathered, and then ballasted, it look great.

@Trinity River Bottoms Boomer posted:

Pat: Real cool photos.  Do you happen to have any videos of your layout?  You can't go wrong when you model the Erie-Lackawanna and run the trains on Ross Custom Switches track products!  Not to forget, Ross is also a charter advertising member of the OGR forum as well!

Thanks,

Joe

Here's a video of my last layout including the E-L locomotive that looks just like the ones I saw as a kid growing up in northern New Jersey.

Here's an interesting and somewhat rare boxcar I picked up years ago.  :-)  If I remember right, Weaver made these boxcars.

I have been using Gargraves and Ross almost exclusively on my last 2 layouts and my new one is no different. However, I did add in some Atlas rigid straight sections when I wanted some strength and also to mate with other Atlas track at bridges, transfer table and engine houses.

Here is a pic to show how seamless a joint can be between Atlas and Gargraves track.

Donald

In a wet environment the wise choice would be Atlas at about two or three times the price of GG.

For normal 35% to 55% humidity rooms GG or Ross would work out OK.

Switches, new/recent Atlas switches are fine but have a limited selection and sporadic availability.

DZ switch motors are more dependable than Atlas switch motors which are built using basic 1955 technology.

Pat: Thanks for the video presentation.  The photo of the Ross Custom Switches box car is cool.  Was it a limited edition?

Joe

Sp/4

US Army Transportation Corps (Active Duty: 1964-1967)

I have two layouts (12'-by-8' and 10'-by-5') with Atlas O sectional track (no flex). I bought it for the larger layout (three loops, O-72, 54, 36, three sidings) in 1999 and the smaller one (O-54 oval, two switches) in 2014 because I preferred how it looked and the solid nickel-silver rails which, I think, have better geometric precision and give more reliable tracking of locomotives and cars than tubular rail. Atlas O track is quite rigid and the sections fit together tightly, which produces good track alignment. And, although I've never made measurements, I think it may give lower rolling resistance and better electrical conductivity than tubular rail. I also suspect it is easier on traction tires than tubular rail. My early switches have had no problems but are probably thrown less frequently than other people would. I use Atlas O track screws, cork roadbed, and found there to be a sufficient selection of track pieces, switch geometries and crossings for my needs.

The negative side of Atlas O is its cost and availability although, when building a layout, my main consideration is using track that won't need to repaired or replaced over time. In more than twenty years on the older layout, I have chosen to replace one section of curved track, although I have developed a way to reattach the rails if they separate from the ties, and have done that in several locations. I purchase Atlas O terminal joiners so that I don't have to solder wires to the track, but the plastic ties sometimes develop fractures due to the tight fit at the terminal joiners.

Atlas O would still be my choice for another layout - but that's just my preference.

MELGAR

We started with Gargraves standard flex at the club layout and use Ross turnouts. Keep in mind we're less than a 1/4 mile from the ocean and get humidity and that nice salt air and the original sections of the layout have been in place for over 20 years, so the track has done surprisingly well.

For new routes and re-alignments, we went with Atlas track because the oxidation is conductive, it's quieter, and looks better. We still use Ross turnouts. We don't use the Atlas adapter pins, but instead shave the webbing off the Gargraves track and push the end ties back on Ross turnouts.

We have a section where the Gargraves rail has split (probably from oxidation and traffic) which we'll be replacing with Atlas fixed curves and flex.

Though the Atlas track is much more expensive, I'd recommend it in areas of high humidity, but I'd recommend the use of Ross turnouts due to the variety and quality of the build. Caboose ground throws and Tortoise switch machines are the best way to throw them, but take a bit more work.

Short answer.....Atlas track with Ross switches or all Ross (track and switches).

Ross track and turnouts have worked quite well for us. We have 30+ turnouts and zero problems.

In addition we use Tortoise switch machines under the layout. They have been flawless and there are no unsightly switch motors atop the layout.

Ross also has turnout indicator lights which are very realistic. We changed them to LEDs and figured out how to mount them and the Tortoises easily. If you choose to use them, we will be glad to assist you.

We use cork roadbed but all reports on the Ross product that we have seen are excellent.

Steve has been quite helpful whenever we have had a question and their product availability has not been a problem unlike some manufacturers... made in USA.