Attaching Backdrops To Walls?

I have no experience with backdrop warehouse products but I have used heavy duty spray adhesive to attach the photo backdrops I use. How about a two sided tape?   I don't recommend trying to wrestle the tempered board panels. I did exactly that same thing and I had a one heck of a time doing it. My back hurt for days afterwards.  

We took the advice from Patrick (GlassBlock) and Rich (Rich 883, the new Korber Models guy) and used carpet tape along the top and ends, and then 3M 3/4" double sided tape for the seams. The bottom just hangs freely. Worked great, looks great, and I can't imagine trying to glue the whole thing. 1 mess up and your screwed.

 

 

That turned out well!  We're considering having a wall paper expert hang ours when we get it, and having the corners "rounded."

My backdrop space on the kneewall in my round-the-room layout is only 13"+ above the benchwork and I opted to to install 13" x 8' x1/8" Masonite removable panels using 2" wide industrial Velcro. The 8' long Masonite panel is light enough to later remove and place on easels for painting,building fronts or applying a mural,etc.

 

Having a painted backdrop or glued on mural was an afterthought and I had to attach the Velcro to the wall and panels after the layout was built. I believe one could use the Velcro method for an 8'x 24-36 " high panel and still handle it okay for removal.[photo shows one 8"panel already installed, just beyond, and one ready to go up over behind the 41" wide Service Yard].

The strong carpet tape worked well for us. A key was to use a laser level to set the top even around the room. We used two rows of tape at th top.

I had a situation in which I needed to mount a backdrop onto a finished drywall surface that I did not wish to damage.  What I did was staple the (13' long) backdrop onto long, thin wooden strips along the top and suspended the whole thing from the dropped ceiling using fishline (almost invisible).

 

 

 

Avanti, Very cool approach!

Ingenious solution Pete plus a great backdrop scene.

I bought a bunch of Backdrop Warehouse Backdrops and they are great. I did a tutorial for installing them that you can find at this location.

 

http://myrrlayout.com/R/Aspfil...p?Xfer_Code=30002780

 

I used rubber cement and I have not had any trouble with them for the last 6 years.

Wow, some great ideas here guys.

Roger, really nice looking backdrops.

Pete, really nice also.

 

Any other ideas and experiences are welcomed!

 

Rod

Hi Rod,

Not sure if this has been mentioned before or not, on my backdrops, I used 2X2 studs on the walls and made a curved section for the backdrop.  My BD is made of .040" sheet styrene.  I buy them from a plastics dealer in 4X8' sheets and have them cut the width of it down to the dimensions I need and then I cut the length myself.  To attach the BD, I use a very small sheet metal screw with a very small shoulder washer, these work great and when I do the final painting, you won't be able to see them unless you are right on top of them.

 

I'm going to try and post a couple of shots of what I've done so far, hope they come out.

 

I wanted to let this topic run on a bit before I asked my question.  It's a question about backdrops, so it fits here maybe, but NOT permanently applying them.

 

I'll apologize ahead about writing so much below.  I wanted to describe what I've tried already and why.

 

I only have a Christmas time layout (11'x15').  I bought 6 backdrops, guessing that each is 4' x 12" - or something close.  I only bought them last year so I have only had one shot at using them so far.

 

What I did I would like to improve on.  I had some goals, and some restrictions.  I knew that if I just set them around the edges that I would get sagging or worse having them fall over, so I figured I had to brace them somehow.  I did not want to give up valuable inches on the perimeter of the layout so I did not want to apply wood studding to the back. 

 

What I did was take 1/2" blueboard and made "studs" which I placed both vertically (4 per piece) and horizontally (top and bottom).  Now my problem was how to hold it against the wall so that they didn't fall onto the layout.  I wanted them as upright as possible.  Obviously I couldn't use anything permanent to attach them to the wall.  I had the advantage of resting the bottoms on the floor or layout edge.

 

My first effort was using that blue stretchy stuff applied to each of the vertical studs.  Didn't hold, even though the bottoms of each piece rested on the floor.

 

Next I tried those picture holding 2-sided adhesive squares.  They at times came loose too.  I didn't want to use the high-adhesive ones because they give a warning about leaving marks, which was unacceptable.

 

My question then is: are there recommended ways to accomplish what I need to?  Temporary, no marks left behind, bracing.

 

As always, thanks - walt

Walt, I think the "fish line" technique I describe above would work pretty well in your situation.  You are essentially making a "curtain" out of the backdrop.  It is true that you may need to make a few tiny holes for thumbtacks or something, but they can be way up by the ceiling, and are usually unnoticeable. Or, you cold try those self-releasing 3M picture frame hangers, which are pretty amazing.

Not too keen on poking holes in my PLASTER ceiling (real plaster, not plaster board) so I don't think I'll select that option.  I did think about it some after reading the above and thought that the picture hangar squares that I used in 2011 might hold the fish line to the ceiling - but after seeing them fail at times I ruled it out.

 

As for the 3M picture frame hangers, I believe that's what I tried, obviously not too well though to describe that I used.  I maybe didn't use enough of them so maybe that's why they came loose at times.

 

thanks pete.

 

- walt

Velcro Walt.

Dewey, but wouldn't I have to PERMANENTLY attach one section to my wall???  Nothing can be permanent.

 

thanks - walt

Sorry Walt I didn't understand. Tough problem

 

How about a decorative around-the-wall 36" H. permanent chair rail having a traditional "picture moulding" with a lip made especially for hanging pictures & portraits via wires. You could use the fishline concept and/or just have a 36" high backdrop.