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I have a new B6sb. It ran fine when I bought it September. I put on display for a 2 months while I worked on my layout. I finally finished a loop and used the B6 to test the track. Put in smoke fluid, fired it up, it made one loop fine...whistle, bell, chuff, etc. then it seemed to jerk, headlight went off then on. Now it will only run in conventional mode. I tried the reset icon on the CAB-2, nothing. I tried to reprogram per the manual, nothing. when I power up the track, it starts in conventional mode. no whistle, no bell, no smoke...nothing. I put a different Legacy engine on the track and it ran perfectly.  I then detached and reconnected the tender hoping that would do it. No change. By the way, the manual isn't clear. Which hole in the drawbar should you use? I used the one farthest from the engine. Any suggestions short of sending it to the hospital?

 

Thanks,

Ed

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Gunrunnerjohn, your suggestion to run the engine w/o the tender gave me an idea. I did just that and reprogrammed it. W/o the tender attached it acted as it should. I reprogrammed it then attached the tender after placing it in Run mode and powered up the track.  It runs perfectly now. Of course, I don't know for sure if reprogramming w/o the tender was the fix, or if in reattaching the tender I seated the tether correctly, but in any event it runs fine. I never would have tried the tender only approach had you not suggested it. Thanks. Thanks to all for the quick help.  it's such sweet little thing, I really didn't want to have to part with it. 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Glad it worked out for you.  It's looking like maybe something with the tether, or maybe it was just the phase of the moon.

 

Hah. I like blaming it on the moon and not my fat fingers!  Have a good one. Now on to my next issue: engines derailing going through a command switch...there's always "another one!"

There's a reason for that as well, I have a few switches that I've "tweaked" to fix that.  The switch rail doesn't seat properly against the outside rail and the wheel picks the switch and some of the wheels try to go straight.  On mine, it only happens on the "out" or curved path.  Tweaking the end of the switch rail to lay against the outside rail better seems to be the solution.

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

There's a reason for that as well, I have a few switches that I've "tweaked" to fix that.  The switch rail doesn't seat properly against the outside rail and the wheel picks the switch and some of the wheels try to go straight.  On mine, it only happens on the "out" or curved path.  Tweaking the end of the switch rail to lay against the outside rail better seems to be the solution.

 

Thanks. That tweak worked. (Very important to me because  it was a LionChief+ engine that was most susceptible and that's what my Grandson runs...) I found a Youtube video demonstrating the fix. I just followed Sean's lead and it worked like a charm.  If only Lionel could bring all production back to the States...ahem.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tZvcxr9BURA  

 

I had a similar issue to Ed but with the Long Island version 6-82310. I reprogrammed the engine without the tender, and I got not response. I did the same with the tender connected, and it ran fine for the current session. When I tried it the next day, it started in conventional. I thought it might be a ground plane issue, so I connected a wire to the cold water pipe as it comes into the house and laid it about 1 1/2” along side the track. No change. I have another legacy engine that runs flawlessly. Any ideas? 

Thanks,

Andy

Last edited by Steamfan77

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