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Our lower level Christmas tree looked like something was missing, so I unearthed some postwar trains my dad had purchased in the 50s.  Last year's loop featured a 736 from 1957, so I decided to get out a 2351 Milwaukee Road this year to pull the string of cars I put under the tree.  Hooked up the mighty ZW, and ran a few loops with no problem.  A drop of Mystery Oil here and there and everything was fine.  I then decided to try out the horn - it worked the last time I had it out several years ago.  Put in a fresh D cell and nothin' - I could hear the relay click up and down.  Popped the hood again and made sure all the wiring was intact.  Howeever, the battery bracket looked extremely dull, moreso than I remembered.  I removed the screw hollding the relay to the bracket, then took the bracket off the frame.  I got out a tube of Simichrome and rubbed a little on the battery/relay frame - nasty black gunk started coming off.  What a difference - the bracket was shiny as a new nickel after some Simichrome action.  I went all the way around and polished the entire bracket, then sprayed it down a few times with some CRC plastic compatible contact cleaner - the last of the black residue came off.  Put everything back together and turned the chassis upside down - beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep!!!!  Partial success - sometimes a diesel horn will work like that (flipping the chassis with a D cell in place causes the relay contact to close, completing the circuit).  Back onto the track, put about 12 volts to the rails, hit the whistle control - beeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeep!  Sometimes scrubbing off decades of old tarnish and and gunk is all it takes to get a balky diesel horn back into form.    

 

I didn't use the Simichrome on the 2351 chassis - I don't know if it will take off the chemical blackening or not - I wouldn't suggest using it blackened or painted metal items.  I only use Simichrome on unpainted/bare metal (great for bringing back aluminum AMT from the dull, gray tone to clean as a whistle, shiny aluminum sheen).  

Last edited by MTN
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I've been working on a lot of those silly, old PW horns lately and it can be frustrating. The electrical pathways for ground and the + end of the battery leave a lot to be desired. Any kind of paint or corrosion in the pathway prevents the 1.5V from doing it's thing. There was a thread about this awhile back where it was suggested to use jumper wires to improve the pathways. I've added them to all my horns and they work much better. One from the top of the battery compartment (the spring loaded plunger attached to the + of the battery) down to the underside of the relay plate (the copper). And another wire running from a horn hold down screw to a ground screw on the relay or motor. I also scrape the paint away on the frame under the horn bracket legs. 

 

Roger

Originally Posted by ROGER1:

I've been working on a lot of those silly, old PW horns lately and it can be frustrating. The electrical pathways for ground and the + end of the battery leave a lot to be desired. Any kind of paint or corrosion in the pathway prevents the 1.5V from doing it's thing. There was a thread about this awhile back where it was suggested to use jumper wires to improve the pathways. I've added them to all my horns and they work much better. One from the top of the battery compartment (the spring loaded plunger attached to the + of the battery) down to the underside of the relay plate (the copper). And another wire running from a horn hold down screw to a ground screw on the relay or motor. I also scrape the paint away on the frame under the horn bracket legs. 

 

Roger

I've done that as well with my 2339, 2350, and a few others in the fleet.  The ultra clean relay bracket did the trick for my 2351 - didn't even have to adjust the set screw on the horn as it sounded great as it was.  

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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