Ball bearings for a 9434 Pittman motor

Probably easier to find the correct bushing but a ball bearing might be the better choice.

What’s the entire product number on the Pittman?…9434 isn’t enough …it should be like 9434XXXX….

Pat

Pat...full number is 9434J434 12V 04-26-95  Thanks for responding. Out of a MTH Northern.

Richard

feet.....Thanks, are you aware of a source?

Richard

The J434 uses the common end bells, it will accept ball bearing inserts if you so choose. Use bearing inserts 4mmX9mmX3mm. Choose motor class for the ball bearings ( 20K RPM capable ) …….you will also have to source extra shims for end play. When converting from oilite to ball bearing, you’ll have to reset everything.

Pat

Pat, where do you get these bearings and shims?

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Pat, where do you get these bearings and shims?

McMaster Carr or Kimball Midwest for the shims, and those unmentionable shopping sites for the bearings …….We used to be able to buy all the parts we could ever ask for right from Charlie Pittman himself, but that’s a bygone era now ……biggest thing to remember when buying ball bearing inserts is to make sure they’re rated for electric motors,….

Pat

Pat....many thanks. McMaster Carr is an old favorite for me. Would you reccomend changing both ends?  I'm aware of the shims in Pittman's. I'll pay attention to end play.

I obviously don't know how to find the bearings, I didn't find any on eBay.

GRJ I will copy you on what I order. Will be tomorrow morning. I have few 8 series Pittman shims on hand from flooded motors.

Richard

@Rppoind posted:

Pat....many thanks. McMaster Carr is an old favorite for me. Would you reccomend changing both ends?  I'm aware of the shims in Pittman's. I'll pay attention to end play.

Truth be told, ball bearing motors are a little overkill in our hobby. With that said, they are noticeably smoother with ball bearings. When you buy bearings from overseas suppliers, they are usually sold in packs of 10. So you’re right there, might as well complete the job……..one word of caution when converting from olite. I usually install one very thin shim between the bearing and the end bell. I’ve found in the past, the end bell’s bearing pockets can snag the inner race, thus locking up the bearing. A thin shim in the pocket cures this. Be sure your new insert is bottomed out, and square before setting up end plays. Also be sure the brush holder end bell shims position the brushes to ride center on the segments. All of these checks can be performed before putting everything back in the can…..

Pat

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I obviously don't know how to find the bearings, I didn't find any on eBay.

John, check your email, I sent you the link

Pat

Got it.  That's five bearings, right?

My sense based on looking at the end plate, the outside motors take the ball bearings, but the middle one is stuck with the sleeve bearings.

I am familiar with both of those motors, the F686 will not accept ball bearings, but the L187’s will accept ball bearings.

usually, the bearings are sold in packs of 10.

I’ve only been able to learn all of this stuff through trial & error ever since Ametek priced themselves right out of our lives!…😉

There’s certain casting ID numbers on the inside of the end bells, at some point, I’ll pull some parts out and give y’all the dos and donts that I’ve learned over the past few decades….

Pat  

If I have a Pittman question, I know where to go!

@Rppoind posted:

feet.....Thanks, are you aware of a source?

Richard

Sorry but no I don't.

I may have an end housing with a sleeve bearing.  Let me know which end (brush or flywheel).

Jon G........Many thanks for the offer. Perhaps you could give me a rain check? If ball bearings don't work out I will e mail you. The non brush end is what I need.

Pat.....You are the man. Many thanks.

Richard

Pat.....Ball Bearings arrived yesterday and I have shims. Trying to avoid a rookie mistake. I noted centering the brushes on the communtator with shims. Also thin shim between bearing and end bell. I can quess the oil wick for bushings is not used. Do you use the copper retainer or no? My bearings slip right in the end bells. Do the bearings require locktite or  simular?

Richard

@Rppoind posted:

Pat.....Ball Bearings arrived yesterday and I have shims. Trying to avoid a rookie mistake. I noted centering the brushes on the communtator with shims. Also thin shim between bearing and end bell. I can quess the oil wick for bushings is not used. Do you use the copper retainer or no? My bearings slip right in the end bells. Do the bearings require locktite or  simular?

Richard

Ball bearing inserts should be a very snug slip fit. Not loose,…..discard oil wick, and oil wick retainer. Do not use loctite on any bearings. Shims set bearing in place. When you’re finished, you should wind up with a very free spinning motor, with virtually no end play. A tiny tiny bit is needed, and that’s just enough so the bearing isn’t loaded …..

Pat

Pat.....Thanks again. I will follow your insructions.

Richard

@Rppoind posted:

Pat.....Thanks again. I will follow your insructions.

Richard

Let us know how the rebuild goes, …..let’s see your results….

Pat

Pat....Disassembled my 9434 pittman Today. Brush bell had 2 12.5mm od spacers one fibre and one rubber, 12mm spacers plus a 7.0mm od rubber spacer. Do those go back with ball bearings? Brush bell casting # is 95-110, output bell #95-246 just in case you need that.

Thanks again

Richard

typo 12.5 od not 12.0

Richard

Put the fiber washer & rubber washers back as they were. Add or subtract the steel shims as needed to get to a desired endplay.

Pat

Thanks Pat....I will do that.

Richard

Pat...Motor is reassembled and runs nice and smooth. Endplay is much less than with bushings. I would suggest that anyone trying changing to ball bearins have at least 12 .025mm shims on hand. Thanks for the help.

Richard