Hi all! Has anyone had experience with putting black weed barrier material over beams of a basement ceiling? Or should I just spray paint the beams and insulation black? Or put up a suspended drop ceiling in black - lots of $. What has your experience been for this project? Thanks in advance, Art
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Painting would be the best option, in my opinion. Basements tend to have pipes, maybe ductwork, a valve that needs to be accessed once in awhile, etc, etc. If you could spray paint the everything, joists, underside of subfloor, pipes, ducts, what have you, then you will still have access to everything and it will all become "invisible".
I'm not a fan of suspended acoustical ceilings in basements or anywhere for that matter. I'd sooner put up a drywall ceiling with access panels for vital valves, junction boxes, etc. Suspended ceilings in basements can look, well, not so good if there are too many ups and downs, soffits, obstructions, on and on.
Art,
I have a drywall ceiling with insulation between the joists which keeps the basement warmer in the winter and cuts down on noise in a huge way.
On the other hand, a friend of mine had his whole basement ceiling space painted flat black-pipes, duct work, everything. I think it looks great and it is a heck of a lot less expensive while giving you a sense of a little more height to the space.
Either way it's an improvement!
A finished ceiling is a must in a basement to keep dust off the layout. Like any other job, do it right and do it one time. The same goes for the floor. Cover it and do not buy the sealer fix. Do it right.
If you are setting up a temp layout, the earlier mentioned fixes can help you a bit. If you are going to build a long term layout, do it right.
I designed and built my home and had the luxury to do things my way. I understand everyone does not have that available and they need to adapt. I kept all pipes over my utility area and had a plastered ceiling installer and rug on the floor. My outside walls in the basement are double insulated and drywall with plaster. I used a steel beam and have never heard creaking that comes with a wood beam. A non covered ceiling will always rain dust on a layout if you live to be 200.
I have seen layouts with the weed barrier material and it will work for you if you have no other way.
I used Tyvek (printed side up) stapled to the joists and I like it. The white brightens the basement. Cheap and it keeps the dust to a minimum. It's also very easy to trim around pipes and other obstacles.
Agree with Marty about installing ceiling if you can do it as Marty said. There are many types of attractive drop ceilings available today which will let you get to lighting and service pipes/vents if necessary.
Good tip on the Tyvek. A bright basement is an asset when working on a layout.
I have no basement ceiling, not that I am recommending this, but I do like access to all the pipes, duct work, wiring, etc. I also use the space between floor joists for storing things like pipes, lumber and things that are small, but long. Pretty handy for things like that. Of course having insulation would probably eliminate storage possibilities.
If I were to install a basement ceiling (I've given it some thought) it would be a drop in, lift out ceiling so I could still have access to everything above. Our home was new 4 years ago when we moved here, but it was a model home, already in place so we just accepted what was here. The lift out ceilings do cost more, but to me would be well worth it.
As for color, I would probably go with the lighter colors (probably white ceiling tile) for added lighting brightness, but I have seen some black ceilings that do look very nice. For me, that would be a tougher choice than type of ceiling.
I'm with Marty. And, I did it. No doubt: Painting is cheaper, but a major advantage is heating and cooling is more efficient as the cubic area is reduced and the air flow won't become "trapped" between the floor joists.
Do it right. Install a ceiling that can be removed for access. And do it BEFORE you begin your layout. Don't be one of the many who put the layout up and then say: I should have finished the basement first....
I ended up having to pause my layout building to finish the room after I had started so like others said better to do it at the beginning.
i would comment about using drywall on the basement ceiling, so many people talk about needed access to pipes and electric, but unless you are constantly re routing your pipes, you really don't need access. Think about it, the rest of your house has pipes and electric in the walls and you only access them in an emergency.
rich
I just moved from my home of 30 years with a suspended ceiling. I would have lost count of how many holes I would have had to make in a drywall ceiling given repairs, upstairs home mods, routing of TV/computer cables etc. I even routed my DCC antennas and camera lines for storage tracks overhead and made a lot of mods to basement lighting as the layout changed and grew. Alot of valves were also located up there. New home has a suspended ceiling too
This is the ceiling in my train room. I use it for storage.
East end.......
West end........
Layout size: Shelf layout 24 feet by 6 to 10 feet on the ends. The lights are all color corrected.
Gary
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trainroomgary posted:
At least you got head room. I'm always banging my head because the ceiling isn't high enough.
trainroomgary posted:
Looks nice - NOW - how about a video of the layout - looks like a three level - ah come on - make and post the video.
SURFLINER posted:Looks nice - NOW - how about a video of the layout - looks like a three level - ah come on - make and post the video.
Hi Surfliner: This video is now playing on my YT Channel. After I interview Mike Wolf, I do a Train Room Tour using MTH - DCS Wi-Fi
Gary
Put up a ceiling, drop, sheetrock, what ever you prefer (I recommend a drop ceiling). The dust will always be an issue, especially if the ceiling is insulated. I agree with Marty, the ceiling gives a finished look to the room, cuts noise too.
Gotta admit the Tyvec is not a bad idea though.
I would suggest RibCore PVC ceiling panels. They come in 10' 12' 16' and 20' sheets.
Had a co-worker tell me that if you rip off the ceiling and expose the joists, it will appear that the ceiling is higher. I tried it, it works. Didn't take down the small strip between the outside wall and the the ductwork, you couldn't see it anyways. It was pretty dusty and messy though.
He also said to paint get a spray gun and paint it white, never did that.
I'm interested in the Tyvek idea and would love to see what the finished result looks like if anyone's able & willing to post a photo. Could help with appearance, brightness, & cleaner look, while being cheap enough to tear down & replace if access needed.
I've waited 15 years to start my perm layout in our basement because I want to have a finished space first. One thing or another has kept us from finishing the space until now. My wife insists that I not only finish the ceiling, but insulate with sound deadening insulation. She doesn't want to hear the trains upstairs. I agree. Besides, building a layout is a multi-year endeavor and I find myself much more willing to spend time in nice finished spaces vs. poorly lit unfinished spaces. I'm sure I'll be glad I waited once it is done, but it has been really tough to wait
Art,
I did exactly what you asked. My layout was already up and I found that just by walking on the floor above would cause dust to fall upon the layout (I also have fiberglass bats between my ceiling joists. Allot of my plumbing is below the joist and to put hardboard up would be next to impossible. I also did not want to go to the expense of putting up a drop ceiling. I chose to staple up the black weed control fabric. I also noted where all the valves were for the plumbing and I cut openings so I could view and access them when needed. I also painted the exposed pipes black to blend them in. Has worked fine for.
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Fridge56Vet posted:I'm interested in the Tyvek idea and would love to see what the finished result looks like if anyone's able & willing to post a photo. Could help with appearance, brightness, & cleaner look, while being cheap enough to tear down & replace if access needed.
Fridge56Vet,
Here you go. I used white duct tape to seal the seams. Keep in mind there is insulation between my joists.
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Art:
I had an unfinished basement for my layout room two houses ago in PA. Like stated above, you could see the dust and dirt fall like rain when someone walked above. After living with all of the dust and dirt for about a year, I decided to finish the room around and over the partially constructed train tables. I put in a drop ceiling with decent lighting and was very pleased with the result.
When the time came to move, I think it made the house easier to sell with an advertised finished basement and I likely got my money back that it cost to finish the room.
Good luck with however you proceed!
Stan
I have a 10 foot ceiling that is sheetrocked with four tube flourescent light fixtures and the area above the ceiling is insulated and used for train box storage.The ceiling is a truss system.
Art;
My space is kind of dark to begin with, so I decided not to try the landscaping fabric I had left over. I went with a couple of bolts of burlap. One advantage of the burlap is that it is fairly strong. I have pink insulation between all the joists in addition to the occasional pipe which extends below the bottoms of the joists. I put the burlap up with an electric stapler.
Here is an unsightly uncovered section (not over the trains):
And here is what it looks like over the trains:
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Thanks for all the great ideas. I will take them all under advisement. Sure are some neat ideas to think about for the next 3 - 4 months before I can get down to NC again. Thanks again - Art
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