Basement Layout

Hi Russell,

The use of the sectional was to get the alignment and curves correct.. If you like the spacing and location of everything, I'll convert it all to flex and fix the fitment issues.

it appears a somewhat freeform flex will be needed on the fireplace exit of the bridge.

Which turntable do you have or will you use? The placeholder in there now is a 24" 2 rail.

One other suggestion is to lengthen the Roundhouse peninsula by 16" to have room to park the engines in front and maybe sneak in a side whisker.

Good idea to double the bridge for appearance. Again, that can actually be whatever Dad wants it to be. Scenery on wood, girder or trestle. I can point you to a few threads with different methods to build it.

Hey Carl,

Dad is building his own turntable, and it is 24" so I just grabbed one that was the correct diameter.  I'll see if he would want to extend the roundhouse section.  That does sound like a good idea.  He has a Marx truss bridge and may get three more to build the bridge section.  He'll need two on each side to get the length he needs.

I know he really liked this last iteration and will likely go with this latest design.  My question to the experienced guys here would be if I have enough space between tracks to avoid problems.  I think it will be ok since we are only running tinplate and older postwar stuff.

Right now we are cleaning out all the stuff from the train room so we can start working in there.  The existing benchwork is attached to three of the walls, so we will likely keep it like that when we cut out the benchwork we don't need from the current large rectangle in the room.  We have some benchwork "legs" to reuse and will have to build quite a few more to go around the room.

For my Barrett Drop Section Bridge I chose to create a faux plate truss bridge because it was simplest to remodel. The unit had been recycled from now dismantled layouts twice, was kind of beat up, but I was too lazy to build a completely new mechanism.

Jim Barrett illustrates Lift Bridge work in his DVD #11.

Dewey,

Thanks for the picture.  I take it that the sections have their own power and that you don't use track pins for the bridge section?

The RR name is interesting as Dad just bought a Southern Railway lantern with a clear globe over the weekend.

Marx and Lionel 027 track had a 3.5 center spacing. So, don't get any closer.4.5, 5.5 and 6 are modern center spacing.

So, the spacing is good. Check for adjustments anywhere for specific accessories and buildings.

I hope there is 15.5 behind the door for the siding to fit. I reworked the plan to show all flex straight and sectional curve. The parts list shows how many 37" you need.

I left the curves on this version as sectional so you would know the radius.

I will turn those into flex track, in another version, so that all you will need is flex and marx switches.

To extend the area for the roundhouse it requires 7.5° increments for the whiskers. I moved that out a little.

if you see an odd circle in 3D, it's something I am doing that I can't get rid of.

here's the layout all flex, if you get one each of the 032, 042 and 054 sectional tracks, you can use those to setup the template for making the curves.

Russell M.

Yes, the Drop Section is hard wired. 

Old 1997 photo from now dismantled layout. Somewhat cluttered by Tortoise Switch motor and switchstand light wire run. White is Common, red and black Hot. When Section is dropped the wire loop moved back into the benchwork space.

Second photo of same section's underside but on an earlier '90s layout also now dismantled.

You could simplify construction and omit legs by using wall braces and L-girders for deck support. You won't be wide enough to worry about legs. You only need the two lengthwise girders with the deck on top. maximum overhang on 24" pylon would 12" for your layout. plenty of support. All 1 x 4 and 1 x except for pylon.

Just a thought...

Carl,

Your wall braces look like they are attached down at the baseboard, and I assume at the top, but I can't see that part.  I like the wall brace like yours, but have an aversion to making too many holes in the wall in case I have to move in a hurry, or I pass on or am incapacitated, and my wife has to get someone to take the layout down and patch the walls.  How is yours attached at the top?

Carl,

This is a great idea for the benchwork.  The basement walls are block with the usual concrete floor and we were planning to use the walls a part of the support.  This will make things much easier.

Dewey,

Thanks for the photos.  I think this would work out just fine for the layout.  Dad is in the midst of packing up trains and other things to make room for the demo of the current layout and start of the new design.

Thanks for your work to change the layout to flex.  We hope to get started soon.

Mark,

I don't use them. I have smooth coated block walls that are painted in the basement.I imagine a 1/4" screw or bolt (had that discussion with Rich O) in the center of a wall stud would hold it. I would not run it to the floor, above the base board. You don't need all of the ribs, no elevations needed.

Russell,

I understand you aversion to the patching, but your already attached to one wall that will need repairing. Holes and support every 4'. The L-girders will hold.

Just a suggestion. 1 day to build supports and L-girders and one day to build a layout. The deck can screwed from the bottom. Don't need a lot of screws. Cut and build in the garage, assemble in the room. Minimum mess.

I am glad he likes the plan. That will stretch the legs on the trains with a little operation. It should be fun.

hey, you have a plan, make it happen your way. I'd like to see trains running. If you select tools on the SCARM menu and then select Parts List, you'll see how much track you need and switches.

You have 169' 5/8" of all track and 50 pieces of flex (37") are needed or a 154" to make 78 tracks. Subtract what you have and see what's needed. I indexed off the bridge to clear the fireplace with the outside curve and bridge straight and went from there. Set the spacing to the inside at 4.5 and built the inside line first.

Good luck and keep us posted. Enjoy this time together.

I am sorry, I read ahead of this post. I assumed that you had stud walls. I suppose you need tables. You don't want holes in the block.

Carl,

One hole and support every 4 feet sounds good to me.  I was thinking I would need 2 holes and a support on every stud.  My previous layouts were always freestanding tables. I want my next to be around the walls, easy to work on top and bottom.  My constant companion, Arthur Itis, makes me not like crawling, climbing, and stretching.  Ha ha.

Dad's not too concerned about holes in the wall.  He already has holes on three walls for the current layout, so a few more won't be a problem.  Also,only two walls are block.  The right side and fireplace walls are stud walls that he put in to make the train room.  He also has a garage in the basement as well, so we won't have to go far for cutting wood or climb steps for bringing in materials, which will make it easier.

Dad started working on cleaning out the train room.  As you can see it's quite the mess right now.  I was in there moving a bunch of heavy things that he cannot move.  Extra points if you can spot the glass of Guinness on the track.

Russell,

Now I can see how the new plan fits. The reach issue must have gotten old on the current table.

yep, one always wonders, "why did I save this stuff" There will still be under table space. Push it to one side and get the long wall up while some of it is disappearing.

Guinness always helps.