Basic Fastrack Question

Lionel makes a small piece of track (picture 3) for that purpose if isolating sections of track.

You just use one of those sections at each end of your siding (pull the little wire off) and put power to that section via a switch. Of course if it's a dead end sideing you only need one of the small pieces.

Picture 1 show a example of putting the switch right at the block section. I think that's gunner Johns photo???

Picture 2 just shows you how I connect the switch leads to a regular piece of 10 inch track. You can actually do that on any section that has the pins. You don't have to solder , but I like to .

Good Luck

Larry

PS One thing I forgot to tell you. If you have the tools and you like playing you can simply cut the center rail of any section of track and make your own isolating pieces of track.

No not the same. Fastrack has many varieties of track that can be used for special purpose. There are sections which have three jumpers underneath so you can isolate any rail. There are also 1 3/4 inch sections, 4.5 inch sections, 5 inch sections, 10 inch sections, and 30 inch sections...all straight. The curves come in 036 from full, 1/2, and 1/4 lengths, 048, 060, 072, and 096 curves.

See here...

http://catalogs.lionel.com/16tp/

CJack,

   Right on the money buddy and if you know how to make your own custom close out FT pieces, you can design any kind of layout you desire.

PCRR/Dave

Thanks.  I always wondered what that wire underneath some tracks was for.  Now I know.  This solves another application.  Long story, so I won't bore with details, but thanks!

I did a few sidings with those 1 3/8" pieces so I could kill power easily to the siding.  It's simple and neat, I also add an LED so I can see that power is on without thinking about which way the switch is.

I ran out of time this weekend to try isolating a Fastrack section.  I actually have a simpler application than a siding, I think.  I want a totally dead section of track but still connected to a section that can be powered.

In my train room, I have all my engines and rolling stock on shelves.  I put the passenger trains on track and would like to be able to apply power to the track sections with the passenger cars (to light them up) but not the engine, of course.

So, I  connected power feeds to the track holding the passenger cars through a switch. No problem.  The problem is finding a way to connect two 10" straights to these sections to hold the engine and tender but not have them receive power when connected to the other 5-6 straights that have power (switchable on/off).  With tubular track, it's easy, just replace the center rail's metal pin with a fiber pin.

What I'm hearing from above is that I should put a 1-3/8" section between the engine/tender track and passenger cars; track and disconnect the wires underneath the small track section. 

I'd really like to avoid cutting pins if possible.

Well, without modifying the track, the 1 3/8" section will provide the isolation as you say.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Well, without modifying the track, the 1 3/8" section will provide the isolation as you say.

That's what I use, but I had one place where there was no room for 1 3/8" so I took a Dremel cutoff wheel and cut a slice thru the center rail of a Fastrack curve at the beginning of it. 

I've done that, but I try to use the little fitters.  That's the easy way to add insulated rails, slice and then remove the cross pieces under the base.

Thanks.  Looking forward to trying next weekend.