Is it best to heat up brass or bend cold? Trailing truck kit that needs adjustments!
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That might be a tough fix. You could try to clamp it and then slowly draw it back and then solder. Better yet, cut the journal box out of it with a jewelers saw and then keep drawing it down a little at a time until it is straight and then solder the journal box back in it. Heat it some while doing it but not red hot. Damage or did it come that way?
Cold. Some alloys will fracture, but most lost wax will bend a bit. I have tried everything on Lobaugh trailing trucks; about half fracture. But they are sand-cast.
Wax was probably pulled from the mold before it hardened. The journal is loose (that part may have confused some). I would put the tongue in a vice and heat it to a low red while holding the other end with pliers and straightening it. Less chance if it breaking if you anneal it. It will work harden as you try to bend it into it proper shape so continuous heat will help it to keep from breaking. You really only want to heat the area your trying to bend.
Jay
I have only had luck after annealing it. Heat to red hot and immediately drop into water. This after breaking a few trying to bend it cold.
Pete
Lost wax castings that are heated red get pretty soft usually, but that may be thick enough of a casting not to matter even if it does. I thought the journal box was cast in, my mistake.
@Jay C posted:Wax was probably pulled from the mold before it hardened. The journal is loose (that part may have confused some). I would put the tongue in a vice and heat it to a low red while holding the other end with pliers and straightening it. Less chance if it breaking if you anneal it. It will work harden as you try to bend it into it proper shape so continuous heat will help it to keep from breaking. You really only want to heat the area your trying to bend.
Jay
I agree, it has worked for me. Just be patient.
Glacierwhatever,
I'll tell you what I can do, I have to go by the foundry to pick up some castings later today anyway. I will take a copy of your photo and an example of a good casting (yeah, I have a set) and ask David for his thoughts. He's been doing lost wax casting for 35 to 40 years and knows far more about all of this than any of us experts. If you want I will post his reply.
Jay
One last thing, I know PSC did the casting and before you do anything, will they replace it? If so, that might be the prudent thing to do. If if it inflicts further damage they may decline do so.
Just a thought.
Jay
If it's any encouragement I can tell of a similar situation I faced...
I won an on-line auction for a K-Line scale steamer. Price seemed reasonable. Lots of photos....but in hindsight, none really belying the whole condition of the front of the engine...pilot, details thereon, etc..
Well, as it turned out upon receipt, that pilot was really bent downward badly. It had suffered a mishap of some sort. Oddly enough, though, there was no evidence of the point of immovable contact anywhere on the pilot.
Thankfully, the seller was forthright, offered a substantial partial refund...bringing the price down to near-absurdity. I accepted both the refund...and the challenge to straighten, if possible...that casting. In retrospect it was probably a gutsier move than I'd take on now, because at that time K-Line was history, Lionel hadn't even hinted at their remake of the same engine from the same tooling (which they finally did!), and even though a great source of K-Line parts was up the road in Saginaw, MI, I had no idea whether their inventory would be of help (at this point that was moot).
First step was to get the beast torn down to free the pilot casting alone. That wasn't difficult at all. And it was at that point I could see that the whole pilot casting was of brass, not die cast zinc alloy. That was a GOOD revelation to me! It appeared that the bend was in the 'tongue' of the part...extending back to its mounting on the engine frame.
So, I did much as you are doing in your posted situation...shared the problem with others, sought their advice. Most foks suggested 'If it were mine, I'd try gently bending it back!' So, with a sturdy vise with soft jaws, wood dowels, hammer...glass of vino...I proceeded...slowly...checking for cracks or other distress...verifying that it was, indeed, moving into alignment. Cold process...no heat added.
And, it worked!!!
And the engine runs as good as it now looks!
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Your situation may be more difficult than mine. But it appears you're getting some very good help towards correction. Be optimistic/confident; its better for your health, and a hallmark of seeking help from this Forum.
KD
Precision scale is making a new set of side arms for me. I really didn't think it would be that hard to fix ! Thanks for all the response, I am a wood guy and metal is a whole different beast to me! Don