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First post have been here reading since about 500 total posts had been made.  A lot of good posters and great topics have come and gone. the moderators 

have done a great job in keeping this site civil and on topic.  On to the question.  What locomotives, steam or diesel have worked best for you through 027 switches.  No stalling

minimal derailing, in all approaching directions.  At this point I don't care about brand, control system or conventional, even motorized units.  Just a small locomotive that works.

Here is what I have used and evaluated so far:   Kline S2 works well just too fast would probably have to put the motors in series to slow it down.  Beep, I think they are the perfect

size for a tiny layout. Their inability to traverse switches really limits  the potential of this little unit.  Lionel post war 1666 post war steamer works pretty good.  RS3, Geeps, Berks

are all too big for what I want to do.  Any input/ thoughts would be greatly appreciated .  What say you?

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Welcome to the participation aspect of the forum!

 

The 622/623/624/6250 switchers are the epitome of smooth operation and reliability on O-27, as well as their Alco counterparts 2023/2031/2032/2033.

 

Williams has reproduced these early die-cast frame diesels, if you rewire the motors in series you will get very good operation at all speeds.

 

Because of the better front truck steering geometry using 4 wheel pilot trucks, for steam engines the 2055/2065/665/685(and their corresponding MPC/Fundimensions clones starting with the 8206) are superb on O-27.

 

A little larger and a bit more unwieldy but still good running on O-27 would be the next upsize series of 4-6-4 steamers in the form of the 2046/2056/646(and their corresponding MPC/Fundimensions clones starting with the 8600).

LNE, being I'm a bona-fide 027, I'll help.

 

For starters, all those K-Line engines like the S-2, MP-15, Alco FA and the RDC car WILL run much slower if you use a transformer like the Lionel 1033 using the B-U voltage posts settings: starts at 0 with a ceiling of 11 volts. Much better for those engines.

 

Sometimes these locos can jump the curve on 027 switches. The fix is easy: insert a small spring (on the lead truck) over the ,metal guide pin from the truck (that goes into the curved slot on the loco frame), between the top of the truck and the bottom of the loco frame. Problem gone. 

 

If you like the K-Line S-2 (as I do) then you will really like the RMT BANG S-4 or the RMT BUDDY RDC car. RMT changed the motor specs so these engines run much better with a typical postwar transformer. I have to use the A-U setting of the 1033 to run these.

 

The front and rear handrails on the BANG are more solid than you would think. The horn is not Railsounds, but on par for a starter set type of engine... you can do worse. The directional lights are a nice plus as are the roof strobe lights. Wholesale Trains has a good price on them. They're not in stock in the store, but they can get them within a week. Tell Becky, Brian the KOI Aquarium guy sent you.

 

The common Lionel 4-4-2 starter steams run great on 027 track and don't look out of place with traditionally sized or 027 rolling stock. Use the Premium Lionel smoke fluid with these... a vast improvement. For that matter, though a little more scale in size, the Lionel 0-8-0 starter steamers have been in production for quite a few years and are a decent loco too.

 

The die-cast Lionel 0-4-0 with tender hasn't been made in a while. The last one was an Angela Trott version. Another small and good running 027 loco, but you do have a tether cord on this one between the loco and the tender.

 

The MTH starter set 0-8-0 steamer is a solid performer for small layouts. They don't make them separate anymore, but if you look, they are around for sale. Same goes for the Rugged Rails F-3. Small by scale standards, but perfect in my book. Again, not made as a separate sale item, but they're around for sale too.

 

The Williams 44 ton centercab, the Lionel copy, well just pretend it is a larger centercab loco... for a single motor, still a decent running engine. More expensive is the Williams NW2, a clone of the Lionel one, but with dual motors. Most of the modern era Lionel NW2's have a single motor, so you won't be able to pull as long a train.

 

I've had no stalling issues with any of the locos I've mentioned.

 

Seriously for the money, you will do well with either the RMT BANG or BUDDY. I took one of my RMT RDC cars, blocked out a couple windows in the front and back and repainted it to Conrail, where on my layout it serves for MOW duty and freight... if you want to get creative!

LNEFan,

   One of the best 027 Diesels is the Lionel GP7 Northern Pacific, Gold/Black & Red trim.  I still own and run her today, given to me in 1959-1960 for Christmas.

Runs like a top on 027 or O gauge tubular track, even better on FasTrack, RealTrax & Atlas Industrial Rail.  Simply one of Lionel's best ever Diesel 027 engines.

PCRR/Dave

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Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

Another nice small locomotive are the K-Line 30 ton Plymouth diesel switchers. They have an a die cast metal body and were available in many road names. If have 4 of them. The later production runs came with scale 0 couplers which connect with the Lionel type couplers. They even smoke and have directional headlights. Even the Williams beep GP7s are ok too. They have two motors and pull about 6 freight cars.

The engine that spends the most time on my o27 loop is a postwar 675. I also run Turbines on that loop (the Century Club version is hard to beat!). My 2046 had a problem with the switches on my last layout. I had to modify my track plan to include a small (2 or 3 inch) straight on one side of the switch, wish I could recall which one, and all was well. I also like Lionel's docksider.

 

For diesels, I like the SD-18s from the MPC era, or the postwar 624 switcher. The postwar 520 boxcab make for an interesting train, but it doesn't pull much. The GP 7, and all of MPC's variants (GP9, GP20, U36b, U36C, SD18) of it seem to do fine on my layout.

 

When I designed my layout, I tried to make it so that none of my switches used the curved leg as the main line. As a result, almost all of my running of the above engines is through the straight portion of the switches. My last layout wasn't planned like that and derailments were more common.

 

Hope this helps,

 

J White

 

I have a new, (though, not new for this year), O-27 F type Santa Fe, with three passenger cars. This was a set that MTH sold several years back. The locomotive is more O-27 scale versus O. Especially when you see it right next to my AC6000.

 

Anyway, I ran her recently and I got to tell you, she was real smooth and very quiet. Not a peep or a problem. So, for me right now, that MTH locomotive best answers the question posed.

 

The 10th Anniversary PE set Berkshire is also real nice. It has a nice way about it and looks fabulous for a starter set locomotive.

Lots of advice !!  All good, you mentioned "small" so I use that criteria but, I must say, for nice operation I love my Lionel  steamers:675, 2055, 2065, 1615 and the NW2. All are low time engines that have been serviced and run smooth and strong. All are available and reasonably priced. Easy to maintain and keep running. I us early PW cars that are heavy and they pull them on the level pretty good. No swtch problems. Good luck !!  I use O but like the o27 looks.

I think the recently released MTH Railking NW-2 and if you want, dummy calf, would do.  The catalog says it runs on O-31 but mine will run fine on )-27 track and actually fit and roll on even D-16 and D-21 'Streets roads - I have not tried to run them on those only since my 'Streets are all converted to DC and I can't power them, but they surely fit on the sharpest curves - quite remarkable.  They are just excellent little locos.  Scale - but the NW-2 is a small loco so the model is small, nice looking, good puller, fairly good sound, and a very good runner in either DCS or conventional.

A thought for consideration... just because a loco will negotiate an 027 curve, that doesn't mean it will look good doing so. Also while some will make the curve, they will not CLEAR the 027 switch box housing.

 

Years ago when Lionel first introduced that Camelback (and Lionel was putting more accurate track clearances in their catalogs) the Camelback was listed as 031 minimum curve.

 

The MTH E-8 listed above is TOO BIG for 027 curves. It's even listed as 031. A safer bet with MTH products are the very early Railking items - especially those that became Rugged Rails later on.

 

The 3 new and available LionChief Plus steamers do run on 027 curves. But now having seen the locos with traditional rolling stock, they are a tad big for my tastes. I'll be avoiding them.

 

C.W. Burfle's mention of the Lionel 2037 (and other similar postwar models) is another excellent recommendation. I have one too. It's a good beefy looking steam engine but with a much better size compression than the new LionChief Plus steamers. Lionel has made some newer 2-6-4's based upon the postwar original with DC can motor. I remember there was a Reading and Union Pacific cataloged in 1995. I've seen these on 027 track with smaller traditional cars and they look good. Laz mentioned another one while I was originally writing this.

 

And ADCX Rob: THANKS for the pic... that's EXACTLY what I was thinking. The postwar origin centercab bears much more resemblance to an 80 ton centercab.

 

PS: I contacted Bachmann about the new 44 ton switcher. While it is small, the coupler openings DO NOT look wide enough to run on 027 track. Bachmann was unable to give a definitive answer despite advertising it as being able to run on 027 track. I would not pre-order one until they're available and tested. Remember, the early RMT BEEPS derailed cars on 027 curves, until the coupler opening was enlarged.

Last edited by brianel_k-lineguy

A PS on the RMT BUDDY and BANG... the way RMT designed the coupler of these locos, it has a very stiff swing. It is very prone to derail lighter rolling stock, even on 027 curves.

 

I recommend two things. Breaking in the coupler by (when not running the loco) moving the coupler all the way to one side until it "locks" in place. Then next time you do this, do it again but in the other direction.

 

And on a train, make sure the first trailing car is a heavier one with die-cast trucks.

 

Just my observation from experience.

I guess best is just personal preference. This year I set up a small loop of track under the Christmas tree not unlike what I found under the tree in 1950 when I got my first Lionel set. I decided to try out my 2035 which was the engine in my first set. This engine runs like it was brand new. Starts right up without having to be warmed up, smokes better than new and has a strong air whistle. Nothing compares to that air whistle to bring back memories. Then I put on a my modern modified starter set 0-8-0, followed by a PW 622, 1656, and Williams NW2. All ran well but the 2035 is back and will stay in place until the tree comes down. For me the 2035 is the best.

 

Pete

As someone who runs long freight consists I can tell you that the best pulling steam engines from the 50s are the 2035 and the 736. The best electrics are the twin motored GG1s. The best diesels are the 2343 and 2344 F3s, and the 2321, 2331, 2341 Trainmasters, and the other twin motored F3s. In the more current times are the MTH Railking twin motored steam locomotives as the Big Boy, the Challenger, the cab forward, etc. The Lionel Lion Master Pennsylvania T1, etc. All of which can operate on 031 curves.

I believe the original poster asked about O-27, Not O-31.  Most of those engines mentioned in the previous post will not operate on O-27.

 

Some others that will operate on O-27: the Lionel General 4-4-0, the MPC era GE U-boat, any of the single motor Lionel F-3's, the Lionel 1666 2-6-2, and the various Lionel Vulcan style switchers.

 

Last edited by John23

A little overhang there!    Seriously, those passenger cars would not make it through the curved leg of a 1122 switch.  Same with the 726/736 Berkshires.  I ran mine on O-27 curves, but it didn't like the the curved leg of the switches.  I heard that some of the 2 motored F-3s would hit, but I never tried that.  

 

Anyway, I think that the OP received some good suggestions for small O-27 engines.  My choice for a engine for a small switching layout would be one of the early Lionel NW-2 switchers with the diecast frame.  They can often be found under $100, are smooth runners, and the electro couplers can be easily converted for remote uncoupling anywhere without a uncoupling track.

Last edited by John23

I have a great little die cast 1655 Lionel Post-war 2-4-2 engine which I ran for years on my old 027 layout.  It was the perfect fit got 027.  It still runs like a top and the whistle tender works great too.  As others have stated The bulk of lionel's early post-war steamers to include but not limited to the 675s, 2025s, 2026s, 2037s, 2020 Turbines, 2046s, 2055s, 2065s are great for 027 layouts.  They all had smoke and air whistles to boot.  The early NW2 Switchers with the die cast frames as well as the early desirable Alco FAs and the GP7 units are also sure winners for 027 running.  I don't think you can beat post war Lionel trains for endurance and reliable operation and all of these engines are relatively inexpensive and easily attainable. 

I agree with the above posts about PW engines like the 623s, 2023, 2035 etc.  But I've gotten a bunch of MTH engines that can navigate through back to back 027 switches for switching duties.  SW1500, SW 1 and Alco S-2 and the first two have great sound sets.My B-6 will make it through as well, although not as smoothly.

 

Roger

If you're looking at steam, I would recommend the die-cast 0-4-0 with slope-back

tender. They look realistic (scale PRR 0-6-0 DNA), are geared fairly well, have operating

couplers at each end, are heavy enough to track well, have pretty good-looking rods

and valve gear, even if that long eccentric rod looks a bit funny...

 

I am speaking, of course, of the modern-era can-motor version of it; stay away from the PW pieces for good running.

 

Here is a photo of one on my layout that I liked so well that I re-lettered and upgraded

it. It has command control (an ERR Cruise Commander), operating Electrocouplers both ends, and decent smoke (came that way). No sound. One of my favorite locos at any price. (The headlight was enlarged/changed just by slipping some brass tubing over it.)

 

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