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Many of us love our switchers, and we already have a very popular and longstanding Topic called Switcher Saturday. However, I cannot remember any comments therein regarding switching operations.

The purpose of this topic is to focus on switching operations and share our switchers that are best at switching, and explain why. For those of us with switching layouts like me, with a lot of turnouts and sidings, sharing this information should be very helpful.

IMO, for a switcher to be among the best at switching, it should at least have both front and rear electrocouplers, which operate anywhere on the layout. As much as I love my Postwar NW2 ATSF bellringing 6220, such switchers that require a remote control track section to couple and uncouple are limited. Modern switchers that can couple and uncouple anywhere on the layout are better switchers at switching, IMO.

Another highly desirable quality is user friendliness. I do not like having to listen to several clinks and/or clanks to do coupling and uncoupling. 

I do not have any of the advanced Lionel and MTH operating systems, so my experience with modern electrocouplers on switchers is limited. So I am very interested in knowing what you folks who have such advanced systems have to say on this subject.

In my limited experience, my best switchers for switching are LC+ locomotives with front and back electrocouplers. They couple and uncouple anywhere on the layout at the press of a button or two. I can't wait to get the brand new LC+2.O tank engine with front and back electrocouplers in the latest Lionel catalogue.

Another desirable quality is for the switcher to be a pretty good puller, which is usually the case if the switcher has heft so it can pull a fair number of cars. This is more likely to be the case if the body of the engine is made of metal, as opposed to plastic.

Yet another issue is the alignment of the electrocouplers. Good alignment is necessary to eliminate the Hand of God (HOG), as GunrunnerJohn would say. Eliminating the HOG is very important!

In closing, photos of your best operating switchers would be good, and videos showing the best switchers actually doing their switching without the HOG would be even better. I think it will "take two to Tango" (2 people) to create such a video, one doing the switching and the other videotaping it, which is something I cannot do until I get a partner in crime to come to my basement.

Looking forward to your contributions on this thread. Arnold 

 

 

 

Last edited by Arnold D. Cribari
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The MTH PS3 SW1500 is a wonderful switch engine. It has speed control so it crawls around as slow as you need without jerking or speed changes. With four center-rail pickup rollers and four wheels grounded by the outside rails it never falters let alone stalls. It is heavy and has traction tires so will move a long string of cars with no issues. Has Electrocouplers (which I do use for certain moves). Sound is surprisingly enjoyable. On my small [largely] switching pike (I am a Looper too ) only one locomotive is in use at any given time so I run DCS with a $60 Remote Commander. The remote is easy to use and is glitch-free. Making the move from a Lionel PWC NW2 to the MTH SW1500 greatly enhanced my model railroading experience. 

          

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Plus I really like the burly character of the SW1500 (both prototype and MTH model) with it's taller hood, larger cab, full handrails and Flexicoil trucks. It has a capable, heavy duty demeanor.

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Last edited by geysergazer

Slow-speed operation is a must.  A little bit of flywheel coasting helps too.  Something I don't believe anyone has mentioned yet, is multiple pick-ups and good ground pickup too.  There are often back-to-back switches, uncoupling electromagnets, etc., in yards and industrial trackage.  A switcher with only two rollers and rubber tires is going to have trouble with some combinations.

Creep, coast, and pull (just like in my sig ;-)

Well Arnold I have to take some contrary positions to some of your parameters for best switcher or favorite switcher to claim my favorite.

I have a very small layout and I actually enjoy the “Hand of God” switcher operation because it makes my operation take longer like it does in real life. Electro couplers only work on the engine and to do real prototype based switching the cars need to separate as well as the engine. I have never seen anyone put electro couplers on cars so automatic realistic switching is not in the cards. 

I am currently mainly a two railer and lately am enjoying British prototypes so I will say my favorite switcher is my Dapol A1 0-6-0T Terrier Fenchurch. 

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There are not even automatic two rail style Kadees  on this one it has British hook and loop with buffers. Coupling with this guy is a tweezers operation. That said it really is my favorite switcher probably because of that and it’s very smooth operation and stellar detailing. 

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Last edited by Silver Lake

I think this topic could be broken into at least 2 parts

1. Conventional control

2. Any type of remote/command control

Arnold, I can only speak about conventional control, as that is all I have. But, for 60 years, my favorite engine for switching operations has been my old set of Alco 2023's. have been my go-to switchers. They are smooth as silk. Of course, they do require an uncoupler track, or  a little hand assistance.

Jeff

The only real requirement for a great switcher in my opinion is smooth, slow-speed operation and silky-smooth working couplers, manual or otherwise.  Electro-couplers are great for lone-wolf operators.  But for those into prototypical operations, with generally a 2 or 3-man crew, you're actually cheating one of them out of his job - uncoupling a car or cut of cars from the engine.  The model trainman's union is probably gonna' balk at this, grievances are going to be filed with the layout host, and nothing more than a big legal mess is going to ensue .

Fortunately, one need look no further than the prototype for great switchers.  On my favorite road, the Rock Island, if a passenger E-8 was all that was available to go out and do some switching, then by gosh that's what got sent out for switching duties.  Well, maybe not.  But based on some of the crazy stories I've heard about the R.I., I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that didn't happen at least a few times. 

Regardless, I look forward to some day getting my first switcher with an electro-coupler at each end! 

I like my MTH 44 Tonner.  It's rated for O27 curves so it can run on the tightest of curves, it runs fine at 3 scale mph, has a good sound set, pulls more than enough cars (I've pulled twelve 40' boxcars), and being a diesel it's only 8 1/2 inches long so it doesn't take up a lot of space.  

I too am looking forward to the new LC+ docksiders and am hopefull they are good pullers.

-Greg

If you want reliable operation over switches (after all, a switcher will be doing that a lot), you want something with more then two closely spaced pickup rollers.  All my small steam switchers have been modified (if they weren't already) to share the pickup rollers between the locomotive and the tender.  For diesel switchers, I'd be looking for a more recent model that has four pickup rollers.

Ted S posted:

Slow-speed operation is a must.  A little bit of flywheel coasting helps too.  Something I don't believe anyone has mentioned yet, is multiple pick-ups and good ground pickup too.  There are often back-to-back switches, uncoupling electromagnets, etc., in yards and industrial trackage.  A switcher with only two rollers and rubber tires is going to have trouble with some combinations.

Creep, coast, and pull (just like in my sig ;-)

Ted makes some good points here about electrical pickup. That's part of how you get smooth slow speed operation.

I run only conventionally and don't do any switching, so I can't comment with respect to Arnold's criteria. But, as a person who mistakenly runs switchers in loops, I prefer small engines pulling a boxcar and a caboose at slow speeds. Among diesel switchers, I like the MTH GE 44 tonners with PS3 and the EMD SW1500 with PS2. I also have two small steamers, an MTH Premier 0-4-0 and an 0-6-0 (both PS2) that are good ones.

MELGAR_GE_44_TON_101_B&M_117MELGAR_NYC_SW1500_105MELGAR_2019_0514_1_NYC_901MELGAR_2019_0711_01_NYC_060_231

Arnold D. Cribari posted:
....

In closing, photos of your best operating switchers would be good, and videos showing the best switchers actually doing their switching ... would be even better. I think it will "take two to Tango" (2 people) to create such a video, one doing the switching and the other videotaping it, which is something I cannot do until I get a partner in crime to come to my basement.

Arnold, I will assist you with the video next time I visit...

MELGAR

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Hi Arnold. Pierre here. I have found that my 6250 seaboard switcher, my 624 C&O switcher and of course my Santa Fe 623 all do the job well. They as you know are the same postwar drive mechanism. They have never disappointed me on any switching maneuvers.   I hear the new legacy NW switchers are excellent as well as the MTH 44 toners for 3 rail.

I have one modern RMT S4BANG switcher that is quite smooth and runs slow , it has rubber tires.  It's a Long Island RR switcher. The couplerarms are on the stiff side but work well with heavier behind it or in front.

I must share with you that my switchers in O scale 2 rail are most slow, smooth and powerful, all stock.  I prefer switching operations with KD couplers such as Atlas SW  7 , 9, 1500 series. They are top shelf operators. I have great luck with some brass switchers such as W&R enterprises 44 toners and Custom brass 44 toners. 

I think Andy Silverlake might agree in O scale.

 

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As one that starts each running of trains on my layout with consist that will make up East and West bounds, starts with switchers using my own systems on how many cars each will have and in what order. I use these 2 to make up the needed cars, once done the main road engines assigned take over and pull their freights out of the yard.

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colorado hirailer posted:

Any small steam switchers with tenders, NOT Belpaire, modern with tender rollers, USRA?, 0-4-0, 0-6-0....out there?

I have the Lionel Legacy B6b and the K-Line A5, both have rollers on both the tender and the locomotive and run over virtually any switch arrangement.  I also have the MTH 44-Ton locomotive and it has a significant issue with many switches.  Two closely spaced rollers is a recipe for stalling.  The MTH 44-Ton model has an additional Achilles Heel, that being it only has four wheels without rubber tires.  So, if you have a dead rail for signalling or over a complex switch arrangement, sometimes a maximum of two wheels are possibly supplying power.  A number of people, including me, have observed situations where the wheels are the problem over the switches and not the center reail pickups.

Here is a video of my Legacy B6 bringing out the last section of my military train at the Black Diamond Society of Model Engineer’s open house a few years ago. I have said it on other treads that in my option this is the best O Gauge switcher ever made. It will run all day at speed step one and never stall, has great sounds, smokes like a chimney and a terrific whistle.

JohnB

Now that all of my 9 sidings are independently powered by a brand new MTH Z4000 tranformer using heavy duty O scale Atlas connectors (my sidings used to be powered by a ZW using those connectors), switching operations on my layout have dramatically improved. 

The 2 main lines are independently powered by another brand new Z4000.

I share this information to help other Forum members improve their switching operations on their layouts.

My best switchers, which I only run conventionally, are LC+ engines because they run slow and smooth and have user friendly electrocouplers. Same is true of my MTH Proto 2 and 3 locomotives, but I find that their electrocoupler operation is not quite as user friendly as LC+. .

I imagine DCS, which I don't have, greatly enhances switching operations.

Arnold

Last edited by Arnold D. Cribari

This is to correct my above post.

For purely switching purposes, I believe MTH Proto 3 Railking with front and back electrocouplers is just as good as LC+ with front and back electrocouplers.

I don't have any high end MTH and Lionel like MTH Premier using DCS and Lionel Legacy and Visionline with DCC, but I imagine some of those switchers are just as good, if not better.

Arnold

I'm sure my switchers aren't the best but I like them. My K-line 0-6-0 has good detail and sound. Is a great puller and does the job. My FM H10-44 MTH diesel switcher is old with Photo sound 1 but still runs and sounds great. It was the first engine my wife ever bought me. If the sound system goes out I will upgrade that little beauty... I mean the engine, not my wife.  Donnight weldingMTH-30-20741-1-Milwaukee-Road-FM-H10-44-Diesel-Engine-w-Proto-Sound-3.0-r1d_800x

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Last edited by scale rail
@Mike CT posted:

Click on triangle for a small video.  The GP7 and (4) Sw9's are all powered.  Older TMCC control, the consist works as a unit, only front and rear head lights operate, only front and rear couplers.   

Programming is available from "the complete guide to command control" which was the instruction manual for original Cab1/Command base sets. 

Mike, your video doesn't play.

I have to admit that for the most part I use my 0-5-0 switcher.  See OP HOG comment...

One thing to keep in mind is that in prototype practice passenger cars are typically switched at 4 mph and freight cars at 10 mph.  If you've ever been a a freight yard, those cars bang together with a significant clang. 

My favorite switcher?  Anything with a Kadee coupler.  The cars just have to barely kiss to connect cleanly, are a lot of fun to start with all the slack action being pulled out of the train and uncoupling while manual, isn't that difficult.  I guess if I had to choose out my collection it would be this one.  Why?  The SD9 was used by the PRR in yard service, especially hump service and had the low gearing to do that job very successfully. 

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Last edited by GG1 4877

Arnold,  I love the topic!  My best steam switcher is my mth 0-6-0 with ps3.  

I also have a wbb gp-9. It's capable of pulling out tree stumps,  but it is an awful switcher.   The Williams gearing Aais meant for warp speed at 7 volts.   Once it takes off the only way to slow it down is with a huge amount of heavy cars.  Also without command couplers it just doesn't do well for actual switcher duties. 

@Silver Lake posted:

......I have never seen anyone put electro couplers on cars so automatic realistic switching is not in the cards

About 50 years ahead of the timetable: Postwar Lionel Electronic Set used vacuume tube tech in each item to fire the coupler coils individually from a little grey metal box with lettered and color matching remote control buttons.

Pricey and a bit finicky to noice & interference during a more "wild west" age of electrical and radio, it never caught on. 

I have a K-line B6s with ERR upgrade and a Legacy B6s and they each perform superbly. I modified an early used Lionel model of the H9 Consolidation with ERR to locate a non operating manual coupler on the front. A piece of the original front coupler box was broken so the coupler that came with the engine could not be attached. I had to buy an MTH extended arm coupler to allow the arm to swing and keep cars to stay coupled in curves. It's not perfect for switching but I like the idea of using it as a road switcher. 

I have posted many videos on our beloved Forum and would love to post a video demonstrating switcher action with one of my slow speed Railking PS3 switchers and/or LC+ switchers with electrocouplers in action.

Problem is I can't shoot a video and do switching maneuvers simultaneously.  I would need 4 hands to do it myself (LOL) or have a train buddy over at my house to help me do that, which is not an easy thing to arrange during this Covid crisis. Arnold

Last edited by Arnold D. Cribari

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