We share our favorite tools for model train building. posted as file1man here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cN152hvJbIk
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I use very basic hand tools for making structure models and layout scenery. Not pictured – electric drill, steel yardstick, sandpaper, wood blocks, more clamps, weights. Maybe my work would be improved with fancier tools…
MELGAR
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Mel, I think you've done just fine with your basic hand tools.
Some basic tools that are multipurpose in addition to train layout work.
It's not just the tools, it's knowing how to use the tools.
gunrunnerjohn posted:It's not just the tools, it's knowing how to use the tools.
Really ??? Imagine that.
Precision screwdrivers are an absolute necessity when working on model trains;
Tweezers. Gotta have tweezers
TopSide Creeper!! Got mine from Summit Racing- just over $200 free shipping on special promo.
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Penn-Pacific posted:Precision screwdrivers are an absolute necessity when working on model trains;
+ 1 on these!
WANT!!
Lew
I really don't have much in tools, most are hand me downs. What I have bought has been mostly drill bits, clamps, that sort of stuff. I will need to get some other types of tools like engine cradle, and better screw drivers. Thankfully I haven't had to operate as servicing of a few engines was shopped out since I had zero time.
Depends: For electrical and general train repairs I have some small (Facom) straight screwdrivers and some for JIS screws (Whia) along with some smaller phillips and straight from Craftsman, long needle nosed, mini needle nosed, and small diagonal cutters, two very small Vise Grips (2LN & 4LN), a Weller soldering station, a dual range Weller soldering gun, flux, solder with silver, a small brass hammer, 3 or 4 metric hex drivers(Whia), a 5 prong grabber, steel rulers 6" and 16", Dremel with speed control & mostly cut off discs and a polishing wheel, assorted X-Acto knives, assorted small drill bits, electric drill and a hand drill, two Zona saws.
I did all my bench work with a level, tape, hammer, screwdriver, and hand saw.
For scenery and track work -- pretty much all of the above along with some putty knives, mat knives, a silk screen roller and lots of paint brushes including some quality artists brushes, for a pallet i used any pieces of cardboard that were handy, for painting scenery i used cheap acrylics from WallyMart that i blended on the pallet to get the colors i wanted
I keep all of my "train tools" in this bag near the layout. It has handy pockets for my screwdrivers and my tape measure, which are my most used tools along with my razor knife set.
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I suspect most of us have a ton of tools when you stop to take inventory. Mine are organized at to where they most often get used. Obviously, my main workbench where I do a lot of repairs has the most often used tools. When you really get to thinking about it, you probably use a lot of tools in the course of a week if you're doing a lot of repairs, layout work, etc.
To my left is another work table where I have a toolbox with less often used tools, more parts drawers, glues, etc.
In the back room to my right is my larger tool box with heavier tools, as well as a couple of workbenches, drill presses, grinders, polishers, saws, etc.
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Geojr posted:Tweezers. Gotta have tweezers
Probably have 20-25 of them in all sorts of sizes and shapes.
Hemostats are something I can't do w/o on my bench! Scalpels - 5-6 different ones.... 4-5 pin vises..... A battery powered Dremel..... A variable speed drill press....
But, most importantly - 1/4" glass work surfaces.
good suggestion . must get a glass work area, pin vises.My biggest problem is I have a jig saw, radial cut saw, & vice but they are in my garage where it is so colddec thru march, I dont use them. I have 2 kitchen tables as worktables in my cellar, 1 would be good for the cut saw. But, how to control saw dust all over?
what ever works!!! I've used many different tools out of my tool box and even created some new tools for a specific job at hand.
bucca posted:good suggestion . must get a glass work area, pin vises.My biggest problem is I have a jig saw, radial cut saw, & vice but they are in my garage where it is so colddec thru march, I dont use them. I have 2 kitchen tables as worktables in my cellar, 1 would be good for the cut saw. But, how to control saw dust all over?
I rarely need a large power tool for building models. Only large power tool that sees any real use for model building is a 12" band saw; 80" x 1/2" blade, to cut some larger bits of wood that I'm too lazy to cut by hand.
Most all of the above except the band saw. Almost had one when I owned a Craftsman band saw. Termites cut wood more accurately than my Craftsman BS.
This fine adjustment & tune-up tool occasionally comes in handy.
Mixed Freight posted:This fine adjustment & tune-up tool occasionally comes in handy.
That's the one I use on my postwar cattle car and platform.
Every now and then it is worth catching up on new or improved tools. The whole world of soldering has gotten cheaper and better with modern soldering stations, portable exhaust fans to keep the rosin smoke out of your lungs, de-soldering guns instead of the old "pull-the-spring-back-and hope" things and so on. For those working with extruded styrofoam for scenery, the tools are evolving and getting cheaper--worth keeping an eye out for. I'm sure there's lots more I have missed.
Don
Tom Tee posted:Most all of the above except the band saw. Almost had one when I owned a Craftsman band saw. Termites cut wood more accurately than my Craftsman BS.
I had that band saw too...I found a scroll saw easier to cut without drifting. It was adequate for most things.
johnstrains posted:Penn-Pacific posted:Precision screwdrivers are an absolute necessity when working on model trains;
+ 1 on these!
This Hozan set of JIS screwdrivers recommended by another forum memebr is the best tool purchase I have made.
These grip the screws much better than the old standard philips heads:
Add to that the Wiha magnetizer for the screwdrivers, and train repairs are a breeze:
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It's not just the tools, it's knowing how to use the tools.
Amen, GRJ. It's like the old story of the person who brought his car with a rough-running engine to the mechanic. In five seconds, the mechanic turned one bolt, fixed the problem and charged the customer $50.
"Fifty dollars for turning one bolt? I could have done that myself," the irate customer said.
The mechanic replied, "It was only $1 for turning the bolt; the other $49 was for knowing which bolt to turn."
Long arms sure are helpful tools. As for the cattle car and platform, no tool will fix that
I have found this 8" single fine cut Flat ******* file to be indispensable when building structures or anything that needs a smooth flat surface.
Tsk...tsk! Just goes to show that the auto-censor is about as bright as Alexa!
So much for educating the public!
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A Delta bandsaw ( 16 or 14"); drill press; Disc sander; chop saw and Byrnes Table saw for large tools.
My Craftsman band saw was also terrible - until I replaced the blade with a good one, adjusted everything as needed to accommodate the new blade, and now it is a lot better and much more accurate.
Dale
I haven't had major issues with the Skil bandsaw, you just have to recognize it for what it is, an inexpensive tool. However, I get pretty good results with it, and as Dale suggests, the blade choice makes a big difference.
I see a number of electrical tools: wire cutters, strippers, etc. But without any doubt in my mind it is necessary to have a good multimeter in your tool bag. Or even better tucked neatly away in a good mechanic's chair. I am forever scooting around on my mechanics chair under the layout.
Most used. Bench disk/belt sander.
gunrunnerjohn posted:I haven't had major issues with the Skil bandsaw, you just have to recognize it for what it is, an inexpensive tool. However, I get pretty good results with it, and as Dale suggests, the blade choice makes a big difference.
Yes, blade choice is very important. A relatively inexpensive bench top band saw from Sears/Craftsman.
Safety meeting of the day, all these tools come with safety precautions, read/and understand before using all associated material that comes with any tool. The pretty lady, (47 years my wife, is best with all her fingers).
Mike CT posted:gunrunnerjohn posted:I haven't had major issues with the Skil bandsaw, you just have to recognize it for what it is, an inexpensive tool. However, I get pretty good results with it, and as Dale suggests, the blade choice makes a big difference.
Yes, blade choice is very important. A relatively inexpensive bench top band saw from Sears/Craftsman.
While it is inexpensive, I have found use of mine for 30+ years to be quite good. One does have to install the correct width blade (1/2" - 1/8") for proper use to get optimal results. One also has to take the time to adjust all of the guide blocks, rollers, and properly tension the blade. I have found that nearly all problems with power tools tend to end up being filed under the heading of ID-10-t user errors. I have the scars to confirm that observation,