Best way to strip paint off MTH plastic shell

Try the 90% isopropyl alcohol. Soak it over night and see if the paint scrubs off with a toothbrush.

I'm currently stripping paint of a few MTH boxcars.  As Laidoffsick mentioned, try the 90% Iso. Alc. for your MTH plastic cars.  Some MTH items strip fast with it while others need to soak overnight.  I've never had it harm any of my plastic rolling stock.

Beat blasting.  MTH uses some good paint, and it's a lot more difficult to get off than Lionel paint for some reason.

 

I use brake fluid....have for 30 years.......BUT.....some folks have claimed brake fluid has eaten plastic body shells.......yet to see it myself.....but as always test.

The last plastic shell I stripped was a Lionel postwar tender.  I used oven cleaner with great results, no harm to the plastic, and it was quick.  Let it sit for 30 to 60 minutes and then scrub with an old tooth brush.  I emphasize old  tooth brush.

 

Bud

What is Bensintine?

Do a search on this forum.. the last guy who tried to strip paint off an MTH shell melted the shell.  That paint is tough.  Use very fine sandpaper to knock the edge off any numbers, letters, and stripes, prime it, and go from there.  Removing the paint is unnecessary and ultimately risky.  I'm not sure why so many people think that stripping the paint off of plastic is necessary, or even a good idea.  It ends in tragedy far more often than people seem willing to admit.

I AGREE! Think about it. Automobiles are subject to a much more extreme environment than our trains. And when they need paint they are not stripped to the metal. (unless it's a 100 point collector car...taking drivers here)  If the paint is sound and free of major defects it becomes the base for new paint. I am in the middle of a Weaver covered hopper repaint that I am taking photos of and will post when complete. A good solid base is all you need to paint.....not bare plastic or metal every time. 

PURPLE POWER!! Is a harmless detergent. I have used it on Lionel PW and MPC with excellent results. I originally read about it here; I am surprised that no one else has mentioned it.

Removing layers of paint allows the details to show.

Most primer paints contain material to fill surface defects when sanded.  Better to use a neutral color like gray w/o the filler for a smoother surface.

Plenty of commerical paint removers available as well as DIY recommendations.  Always test using a cotton swab on the inside to determine how quickly it works.

Wash and rinse thoroughly.

The model must be completely dry and free of odor before painting.

Removing layers of paint allows the details to show.

Exactly.  You'd be surprised at what's under some of the paint on MTH equipment.

 

I've used brake fluid and the smelly Easy-Off with good results, although it takes longer than I would like.  I have not had any melting of plastic parts, but I have had glued on pieces fall off, so make sure to check the gunk before you dispose of it.

 

I bought a thick plastic plant holder (maybe 6-8" wide and 24-30" long) that the entire shell of a Williams E7 would fit inside and sprayed it down with Easy-Off, I lined the plant holder with a large plastic leaf bag so I could toss the gunk when done.

 

Let it sit for as long as you can stand it then take that old toothbrush and start cleaning.  A dental tool will help remove some paint from areas that the toothbrush can't.

 

I think I left most pieces in for 2 hours then started cleaning them off.  Once thru the first "process" repeat as necessary until the paint is gone.  I'm not sure if the manufacturers use a clear coat, but it seems there's something on the outer surface that must be tougher than what's underneath.