Boar's Head piggyback units by MTH

Seems like those trailers should be setting level, or nearly so. How would it look if you ditched those chalks to start with? Trailer would at least set level. Then, you might have to glue a small strip of styrene just along the inside of each rear tire, to keep trailers from shifting sideways. You are right though, very poor design.

Jeff

@mowingman posted:

Seems like those trailers should be setting level, or nearly so. How would it look if you ditched those chalks to start with? Trailer would at least set level. Then, you might have to glue a small strip of styrene just along the inside of each rear tire, to keep trailers from shifting sideways. You are right though, very poor design.

Jeff

Jeff, I am sure your suggestion is valid, I have glued a 1/2 x 1/2 piece of wood(painted dark brown or black)laterally between the tires to keep piggyback trailers in place.   However, with some tremors in my hands I can no longer do that and for $180 these ought to be correct.   John

John I just picked up a couple of these cars. The trailer wheels sit inside the chocks. The hitch stand has a little adjustment screw on the front as well. Basically slide the trailer wheels into the chocks, adjust the hitch stand up to level the trailer, and they'll never fall out short of turning the car upside down. See attached pictures.

@Lou1985 posted:

John I just picked up a couple of these cars. The trailer wheels sit inside the chocks. The hitch stand has a little adjustment screw on the front as well. Basically slide the trailer wheels into the chocks, adjust the hitch stand up to level the trailer

Lou,  Thank you for your response.  The chocks are the same distance apart as the tires which places both tires above the deck of the car and nothing to stop lateral movement. I think my pictures show all tires above the deck.  Respectfully, John

Lou and John,

The piggy back cars are beauties and, as I've discovered, have the best wheel bearings of any flat cars in my entire collection.

But, as you've discovered...

They are a total pain in the....to get properly seated and leveled.

a) Here is supposed to be the end result with the pups reasonably level.

b) Unfortunately MTH did not provide any instructions on how to mount the pups.

c) The wheels do not completely fit into the chocks. The chocks are a bit too narrow for the wheels.  (Your mileage may vary.) They should not be forced to the rear of the chock otherwise the rear of the pup will be raised too much.

d) Here is an example of a good placement for the rear wheel.

e) The metal crossbar (I'm not actually sure what it is called in trucker's lingo) rests on the edge of the black plastic base.

f) Next comes the real hard part that requires a steady hand and much patience.  As Lou noted above, there is a screw that raises and lowers a platform with a hole to accommodate the pin on the pup. Turning the screw clockwise raises the platform; counter-clockwise lowers it. Here are less-than-perfect examples but good enough to do the job.

So my message is if you are having difficulty securing the pups, you are a completely normal person.   I find these difficult to set up, but after much work and patience the pups seem to be reasonably secure. Just keep the cats away! 

As previously stated, that adjusting screw is the thing to raise the stand and level the trailer.  I actually like the way the wheels are just ever so tightly snug in the chocks.  I received my Boar's Head PUP Trailer Tuesday morning, and just got around to unboxing it now.  I am very satisfied and love many of the items METCA is pumping out.  I only got the one black trailer, but the red trailer looks awesome too.  Enjoy your new train!

If your not familiar with the items METCA is putting out, visit their website https://www.metca.org/store.html to give it a look.

Received mine yesterday. After my Quality check, I found no issues with this set.

Looking at the other OGR photos, it appeard to be a bit of operator error at play. Supports must be as shown – up-level in my photos.

I have handled dozens of these trailers and sometimes you have to squeeze the rubber tires together on the axle for proper fit into the wheel chocks.

Also noted in the past – the small wheels can fall off. I generally glue them. If lost, you have to buy the entire support piece with wheels attached from MTH.

I’m adding a refrigeration unit box to one and and selling the other trailer on ebay. No need for two.

I retrofit Lionel's lower and better period model PS-4 flats for MTH trailers.

This MTH flat will be converted into a reach car for dock operations on the future and final layout starting 2^nd quarter of next year.

@Bruce Brown posted:

c) The wheels do not completely fit into the chocks. The chocks are a bit too narrow for the wheels.  (Your mileage may vary.) They should not be forced to the rear of the chock otherwise the rear of the pup will be raised too much.

d) Here is an example of a good placement for the rear wheel.

John, as we've both noted, the rear wheels fit inside the chocks. They take some force, and are a tight fit, but that's what keeps the trailers in place.

Again, you may have to slide & squeeze both rubber tires closer together on the axle of some trailers to obtain the proper fit. One of the line workers didn't get the memo.

Easy fix.

Has anyone purchased either B&O TOFC MTH custom run from Pat’s Trains?

Terrance

@Bruce Brown posted:

Lou and John,

The piggy back cars are beauties and, as I've discovered, have the best wheel bearings of any flat cars in my entire collection.

But, as you've discovered...

They are a total pain in the....to get properly seated and leveled.

a) Here is supposed to be the end result with the pups reasonably level.

b) Unfortunately MTH did not provide any instructions on how to mount the pups.

c) The wheels do not completely fit into the chocks. The chocks are a bit too narrow for the wheels.  (Your mileage may vary.) They should not be forced to the rear of the chock otherwise the rear of the pup will be raised too much.

d) Here is an example of a good placement for the rear wheel.

e) The metal crossbar (I'm not actually sure what it is called in trucker's lingo) rests on the edge of the black plastic base.

f) Next comes the real hard part that requires a steady hand and much patience.  As Lou noted above, there is a screw that raises and lowers a platform with a hole to accommodate the pin on the pup. Turning the screw clockwise raises the platform; counter-clockwise lowers it. Here are less-than-perfect examples but good enough to do the job.

So my message is if you are having difficulty securing the pups, you are a completely normal person.   I find these difficult to set up, but after much work and patience the pups seem to be reasonably secure. Just keep the cats away!

I received a notice that my 2 Boar’s Head cars were delivered on Tuesday, but I won’t get a chance to unpack them until Saturday. Thanks Bruce and @SIRT for the tutorial on installing the trailers - this is my first MTH trailer car and your pics and comments will make things go a lot more smoothly

Get the COOPERS too!

Nice job MTH and Berwyns!!

I'm keeping the trailers for the warehouse on the industrial layout in 2023. No need for this flat car, so it can be added to your collection using any MTH 50's pup trailer. New MTH Wabash #180 extra TOFC FLAT CAR only, for sale.

49.00 + shipping, with carton and box.

This is how the trailers sat when I started this thread.

This is how they now run on our layout.  I squeezed the tires to force them into the chocks/bracing and my wife raised the hitch stands.  Only lost one dolly wheel in the process.  Thank you to all who were kind enough to show the correct way to mount these trailers. It sure would be easier if the tire bracing was 1 millimeter further apart.  John

Looks much better, John. Too bad we can't let some air out of the tires.

Just some other pointers -

The vertical support saddle should almost be straight up. Small wheels do not set on the flat car deck. Tires should be against the back of chocks. Mud flaps should be behind the chocks.

If this is not followed, they are not correctly placed and secured.