Body filler that doesn't shrink?

Mario;

 

Have you tried Squadron White putty?

 

Allan

Check the Playboy mansion......

PPG spot putty automotive filler.

I have a plastic unit that needs modifying - then it will be heated to 1100 degrees or so.  Think that auto body putty would vaporize at that temp?  Or would the solids contaminate the mold?

Thanks, everyone.

I'm going to try one last thing, and that's layer the Tamiya on and let it sit for a week or so before sanding.

If not, PPG here I come!

I might just try gluing the lens in place on the short hood, and then sanding them down. Ugh.

Bob2, as for 1100*, are you sure the plastic can take that, let alone the filler? I've heard of a method where one dissolves extra plastic in model glue (toluene if you have some) to make a plastic goop and use that. I might try that too.

Thanks,
Mario

I know Bondo has a bad name. BUT this is GRP (Glass Reinforced Plastic) Probably worth a shot.

 

As for that 1100F number, I'm hoping that's just a typo. Maybe 110F?

I'm curious too about heating any plastic to 1100 degrees.

 

What type of plastic is that will stand up to that.    I melted a B unit at about 170-200!

I think that Bob is planning of using the shell in a "lost plastic" casting process - it gets destroyed / vaporized and hot metal replaces it.

Recently I found a product that is made by Bondo and it's good also.  Comes in a small tube and is red-can't remember the name.  It's like the PPG stuff, no mixing required, dab it on, let dry for a few hours, and easily sands.  Again, it can  be found at any good auto body supply store.

86TA

I use the same stuff,works great,

I've always suspected modeling putty to be automotive glaze..

I've never used Tamiya, just Testor's .

I have used PPG and Bondo glaze but only on full sized items.

 

IMO they all shrink, but I would like to get a modeling oriented view of how they compare at an O modeling level, where the slightest flaw is 48x worse. 

 

I do a small amout of sheet metal repair, and Bondo seems to work quite well.  I am pretty sure it does not shrink.  It may actually swell a bit.

 

Martin is correct - it is an Atlas Erie-Built nose.  It will get B-17 windows, then be encased in plastic and burned out.  The finished product will be silicon bronze, and 1/2% smaller, which I may compensate for with an added plastic slice down the middle.  I think they blow out the solids after the burnout.

I've used automotive body fillers for hobby work and not noticed shrinkage. I don't apply massive thick layers of it. UV-cured Bondo is really handy because it doesn't need a separate hardener mixed in; just set it out in the sun for 15 minutes to cure.

If it comes in a tube, it'll shrink. We call it "lacquer putty" in the automotive industry. You can squeeze some out of the tube, mix it with lacquer thinner and shoot it out of a gun as primer.

PPG and Evercoat both make a two part polyester spot putty that won't shrink.

 

To quickly remove bondo from older cars we use a propane torch to heat it up and scrape it off, so there's no way it'll withstand the heat mentioned above.

Bondo is your friend

 It got the bad name from shoddy use of a good product.

 

I don't think you want the Bondo-glass. The fiberglass hairs alone would drive me nuts.

 

The heat generated by "two part" paint goodies can get petty intense on occasion. I'd experiment before committing to using it.

 

 

I'd worry about melting some plastics 

  

 

New can of Lionel NYC black and a new filler to try.

A two-part. No shrinkage. Sand in 15 minutes.

If youre going to burn out the plastic to make a mold, why not try some wax for lost wax casting. Some of that wax is hard as heck

Sorry about the delay.

 

Yes, Rich, that's the stuff.

Well, we shall see how it goes...  We're ready for cab and some body panel painting, and I may need to go back and re-fill / sand the long hood engine cover and the nose headlights; if they shrink.

 

 

Yep - Bondo automotive, in a tube, as above. 

 

I don't know about Bondo "having a bad name", or why it should (incompetent auto body work aside), but this stuff is designed for the rough and tumble world of the Interstate, and it can certainly take the environments where wee RR models live.

 

I switched from Squadron putty to Bondo years ago. Just as easy to work, but tougher.