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Never built a kit out of wood (plastic only), and I saw one of these that I think I would like.  It's their Fallen Barn.  http://www.branchline-trains.c...dential/farms_o.html

 

Any one here ever build one of their kits?  Any advice would be great.

 

Thanks

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I built the gas station,  but converted it to a used car lot office.  It went fairly smoothly.  Instructions are straightforward. I glued mine together with Zap A gap CA+, being fundamentally too impatient to wait for wood glue to dry.   I did not like the roof that came with the kit, so I made my own shingles with construction paper.  As you can see, i lit the interior, so making the walls light tight involved an extra step.  The peel and stick windows can use some Zap-A-Gap to help them stick. Also, the kit did not come with a base, so I made one from three pieces of 3/32 x 3" bass wood sheet edge glued with gorilla glue.  

 

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I've built a couple of their kits and I agree that they are great kits.  Follow Russ' advice and read through the instructions a couple times and familiarize yourself with ALL the parts before you start.  Assembly is straightforward and the results are awesome.

 

FWIW, I prefer to use Floquil (solvent based) paints for these wood kits and avoid any warping issues.  Use of water based paints required that I paint both sides at once or the pieces tended to curl.

I like the thick CA glue . It just lets you keep moving forward .elmers just takes to long to set.

I painted both sides of my parts before assembly and you can touch up areas that need it afterwards. I think it's a good precaution as these kit's are not cheap and I didn't want mine to warp.
David

Originally Posted by Frank Mulligan:
Okay. I just received the kit and it seems easy enough.  I have a question though.  It says in the instructions that they used Elmer's white glue, while yellow wood glue or ACC super glue could also be used. Any opinions on which to use before I start?


There is a bit to getting use to using white glues and wood materials, you may want to practice.  White glues do fine with wood on wood, but if there is paint involved on a surface the yellow carpenter's glue is a bit more aggressive as is CA, Cyanoacralate (Super Glue). So where with a white glue there is little or no clean-up, Carpenter's glue will dry yellow and requires more care and clean-up.   Most white and yellow wood glues are water or acrylic base and will soak a piece of wood causing it to expand and in some case twist and bend, keep in mind as the glue dries the wood piece will tend to go back to it's normal size.   Clamps and holding device might be of help.  Sometimes as I attach trim pieces I apply the glue with a small paint brush let it set and tack-up a bit and then apply the piece.  CA, I'd use a Gap filling or thick, both give a little more set time, is great for instant attachment or holding pieces together until the white glue sets.   Pretty good chance that by the end of the kit assembly Frank you will have figured that all out. I'm on my third major kit and still learning.   I also think a base or foundation for a model is a must.

Take your time and have fun.

Mike

Originally Posted by ChiloquinRuss:

"can't hold a candle to the laser kit's result for 'WOW!-factor'. "  I quite agree.  I'm a pretty good wood butcher and create a pretty convincing scene, but if I need a focal point to draw folks in, then laser kits make me look really good!   Russ


I'll second that.  Exception is a lot of amazing scratch built art work I've seen here on the Forum.

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OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

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